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Post by tatocorvette on Apr 28, 2019 3:48:43 GMT -8
Hi Bill,
As a hardcore Chevy guy I'm very interested in this one. Looking forward to it!
Thanks, Ismael
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Post by Joel_W on Apr 28, 2019 7:02:04 GMT -8
Bill, I'm looking forward to studying your photos, as the explanations of how you had to assemble the Transkit, then marry it to the Beemax pan really read like a super complex operation. One that I honestly got lost in.
Joel
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Post by Ben_B on Apr 28, 2019 13:07:56 GMT -8
Looking forward to this one! I feel your pain with the transkit. I’ve battled some real doozies in the airplane modeling world.
Are you just trying to manage the size of the photo file for posting here? What I do is let the camera decide on the file size, and then I download it to my computer and reduce the size of the photo using Paint.net, a freeware that’s very easy to use. When I resize a big ~4 MB photo to ~1000 pixels, it knocks the file size down to less than 1 MB. Paint.net lets you do a lot of other photo editing without having to pay for something like Adobe Photoshop.
Ben
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Post by Joel_W on Apr 29, 2019 9:09:01 GMT -8
Bill, What camera are you using? Are you leaving all the settings on Auto, which could be an issue as well. Like Ben said, there are dozens and dozens of resizing and format Applets out there for free. I've been using Pixsizer since the 1990s. Just update the version as needed. Are you using a 3rd party hosting site to post your pictures here?
Joel
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Post by Joel_W on Apr 30, 2019 9:27:39 GMT -8
Bill, Even using a cell phone, you still have to upload your images to a hosting service via the Net, then from the service to here. Almost all cell phones have a menu for their camera. There you can usually set the resolution so that you don't have to use a applet to reduce it. Personally, I use 1280 X 1024 max that I set through Pixresizer. I can also change the resolution when uploading to Image Shack, my 3rd party hosting service, ($3.99/month).
From what you wrote, you're by-passing your computer and uploading directly to whatever hosting site you use. that's fine. There, you should also be able to adjust the resolution that it will download your images to here.
Joel
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Post by Ben_B on Apr 30, 2019 12:44:08 GMT -8
I haven’t heard of any toxicity issues with CA + baking soda, but I have read of problems with oozing liquid when you use it with talc. The Dremel is my favorite tool when I need to remove a lot of material in a hurry. I’ll usually mount a shop vac nozzle near the victim/part so the bench stays dust-free.
Ben
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Post by Joel_W on Apr 30, 2019 13:02:35 GMT -8
Bill, I'm more of a straight CCA guy. I've yet to actually try the baking soda mix, but I can honestly say that I use it almost as much as Tamiya Extra Thin. As for Mr. Dremel, mine finally died, so I need to get my act together and get a new one.
Joel
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Post by Joel_W on May 1, 2019 5:35:26 GMT -8
Bill, As I said before, I use CCA glue in a few consistencies, and find it's best use as filler for styrene, and a great glue for non-similar surfaces. I've heard of using an additive like Talc or Baking Soda, but always thought that their main function was to cloud up the CCA so that you can see where you've applied it/ the level of the fill, and that it dries somewhat sooner.
I do use an Accelerator waved over the CCA glue on a Micro brush as it's the fumes that seem to do the work more then the liquid that would then have to dry. The spray concept just always made a mess for me to have to clean up.
I have a very long history with Squadron's Green Putty. Basically, when we I got back into modeling the 1st time in 1974 or so, that was the go to filler, especially as I shopped and met most of my friends at the Squadron Shop in Syosset NY. Piling the stuff on was how we filled large gaps, and it didn't take long to figure out that it does shrink especially if there was no solid backing, so several applications were needed, even better was layering as we figured it out over time. Over the years others much smarter then me figured out that the shrinking is basically the evaporation of the Thinners which lets the half liquid state dry and solidify. That's the issue. And melted styrene was even worse as far as shrinking. the lighter the layer with a backing, the less the shrinking, and the faster it takes place.
Automotive filler, which I've used Bondo does the same exact thing, so there's no real advantage to using it as far as shrinking goes, but it's dries like steel.
So today my favorite fillers are CCA, or a two part epoxy putty. I do use Green Stuff & Tamiya putty for final blending.
Joel
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Post by Ben_B on May 1, 2019 7:30:32 GMT -8
I seem to be allergic to CA fumes. If I don’t have good enough ventilation, I’ll end up with sinus problems for a couple of days. For large-ish gaps, I use Apoxie Sculpt. It seems to have a longer shelf life than Milliput and it doesn’t shrink. I recently tried Perfect Plastic Putty with good results, too.
I’ve been using Tamiya Extra Thin cement for several years with good results. I don’t seem to get ghost seams as badly as with Tenax or Pro Weld. I know of a couple of guys who use bulk MEK from the hardware store. It’s a major component of most of these cements.
Ben
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Post by Joel_W on May 1, 2019 7:57:11 GMT -8
I seem to be allergic to CA fumes. If I don’t have good enough ventilation, I’ll end up with sinus problems for a couple of days. For large-ish gaps, I use Apoxie Sculpt. It seems to have a longer shelf life than Milliput and it doesn’t shrink. I recently tried Perfect Plastic Putty with good results, too. I’ve been using Tamiya Extra Thin cement for several years with good results. I don’t seem to get ghost seams as badly as with Tenax or Pro Weld. I know of a couple of guys who use bulk MEK from the hardware store. It’s a major component of most of these cements. Ben Ben, I just ordered some Apoxie Sculpt for my next build that has major gap and fit issues. I was going to re-order Milliput but Sprue Brothers was out of the fine white again. So I Googled Apoxie Sculpt White and just about everyone is impressed with it, and says it's a step or two above Milliput, so I'm trying it out. As for Plastic Putty, none of the online resources I use carry it. Mek is really dangerous stuff, and should only be used in well ventilated places. I'd wear a respirator for good measure as well. But it welds plastic parts together better then anything out there. Just to dangerous for me to use. Joel
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Post by tatocorvette on May 1, 2019 10:51:59 GMT -8
I started using Apoxie sculpt recently. I bought a small sample size from theengineerguy.com. I think it was 2oz for $10. I chose natural color but it also comes in white and black. www.theengineerguy.com/Apoxie-Sculpt.htmlHope this helps. Thanks, Ismael
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Post by Joel_W on May 2, 2019 5:12:58 GMT -8
Bill, we're really quite alike. It takes a lot for me to actually switch from one product to another. I've tried 5 min JB Weld and it does work, but it's really not modeler friendly, so I'm looking forward to the Apoxie Sculpt for its ease of use.
Joel
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Post by Ben_B on May 2, 2019 7:30:00 GMT -8
I consider Apoxie Sculpt to be Milliput with a longer shelf life. It acts just like Milliput, and responds well to smoothing with a little water. It might even sand a little easier than Milliput.
I bought the Perfect Plastic Putty through Amazon.
Ben
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Post by Joel_W on May 3, 2019 4:49:48 GMT -8
My order is due Saturday. And I'm looking forward to it's 1st test on my current build. 1st intro post coming real soon.
Joel
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Post by Joel_W on May 3, 2019 5:59:30 GMT -8
And just what IS your newest build, sir?🤔 Bill, I just posted my intro to it in the USSRC & Can Am section. It's the very old (just like me) Tamiya 1/18 scale Lola T-160 TS Can Am car. Sure hoping that you join me for the ride to the finish line. Joel
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