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Post by pnance26 on Sept 13, 2019 15:10:15 GMT -8
Huge difference in just the paint finish. it's like night and day. The Indy Car White decal looks pretty good to me, but a double decal will really make it pop. Excellent work on the front wing. It now looks like it should; Polished Aluminum. As for the issue with the Micro Sol, glad that you got it off. I always use a Q tip to mop up any excess decal solution(s), and after the decal has set some, a light wipe with a damp Q tip. Joel That is doubled... I should have tried to mask according to IndyCal instead of the kit decal which was much more curved. Lesson learned much the same as the MicroSol issue... learning is what it is all about...
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Post by pnance26 on Sept 13, 2019 15:13:32 GMT -8
Lookin' good, sir! What color is that seat? TS -46, Tamiya Light Sand, by any chance? I'm leaning towards that for my 641/2 seat. They supply the "leather" material for it but I'm not sure if that will work for me. Laying decals on a curved surface is tough enough for me...can't imagine what "upholstering" would turn out like. The seat is just racing white as called for in the kit. I guess back then, the driver's comfort wasn't a big concern. The leather on the seat for the 641/2 is pretty easy if I recall. It gives the car a great look.
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Post by pnance26 on Sept 13, 2019 15:27:00 GMT -8
Arcticwolf, I've been burned twice with so called started kits but complete, and neither was as advertised. Thank Goodness for PayPal being there both times. If you paid that way, why not ask for a refund as it's not what was advertised. Joel I could, Joel, but what's "as advertised?' Maybe it is all there, just all the parts have been removed from the trees, some of them are glued together. Who knows? But the guy got $50.00 US for it so I can't really say much. It's just with me, add the exchange rate, shipping, and so called "import charges" and I'm up to $110.00. Really not worth it. Maybe in the end it'll be a nice model.
Paul
I bought a T4 for this project that was "started" and luckily all the pieces and parts were there. The daughter who sold it said she was selling her dad's work. And she wanted it to go to a "good person". I don't have much of a good opinion and am not quite sure what I will do with the kit. It will be "complete" but it will be a combination of his work and the parts I replaced on my rebuild. There is a complete T4 there but it's more than an omelette! He didn't paint the tub before assembly nor did he do the engine block and he has already attached the rear suspension and transmission. It is also the kit's raw plastic grey. I'll put the box aside and maybe if an ambitious guy comes along who likes jigsaw puzzle, I may "trade" it to that person for maybe some magic beans. I know I won't want to see it any longer!
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Post by pnance26 on Sept 13, 2019 19:48:31 GMT -8
Huge difference in just the paint finish. it's like night and day. The Indy Car White decal looks pretty good to me, but a double decal will really make it pop. Excellent work on the front wing. It now looks like it should; Polished Aluminum. As for the issue with the Micro Sol, glad that you got it off. I always use a Q tip to mop up any excess decal solution(s), and after the decal has set some, a light wipe with a damp Q tip. Joel With that being double up, I'm wondering is a third layer of white would do it, or would I just be chasing my tail? I didn't know that Michael did n't have the curved that Tamiya used on the side pod white areas. Tamiya followed the curve of the side and Michael used a little bit straighter line. That accounts for the discrepancy. Comments?
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Post by Joel_W on Sept 14, 2019 5:29:01 GMT -8
pnance26, As for tripling up, the end result will certainly be a more bright White in this case, But the downside is a white decal that's just way to thick and the look will just ruin what you're trying to accomplish. Always keep in mind that the final results are all that really count.
I'm a firm believer that when I can mask and paint, that's the way I'll go. And yes, there is always that paint demarcation line. But as long as the paint isn't "floaded" on, a lite rub with wet 8,000-12,000 will remove it just fine.
Sure, masking can be tough, tough to the point of almost impossible, but then so would most decals fall far short of achieving what you're after. Honestly, most modelers really don't know how to mask correctly, especially when it comes to compound curves like you're dealing with. So the frustration of poor sealing resulting in leaking under the masking, wavy and or inaccurate lines, and just a ton of time spent that ends poorly is the end result.
So how does one mask correctly. And I'm not saying I'm an expert by any means. I've lived through every one of those issues way more times then I'd care to admit to. To this day I'll "chicken out" from the paint scheme I really want, to a simpler one rather then try to mask or knowing that decals just can't cut it if possible. I never buy Indy Cal decals with the color backing if Michael just offers them without the color option, which is does on his newer decals.
1st, the decals themselves may or may not be able to deal with certain areas. A good deal of the time I just cut the decal into smaller pieces that will work. But where you make that cut is super important so you can hid the cut line. Also, as in your case even the best of decals it's a balance between thickness and opacity when it comes to decals of bright lite colors over dark paint. The reverse is so much easier.
As for how to mask correctly. Out of shear frustration I turned to YouTube. I do follow several outstanding modelers for different reasons, and two are experts on masking. Just pure luck in finding them and their techniques. I didn't invent or come up with any of these procedures. As a matter of fact, two of modelers I follow are Japanese and don't speak English including one of the decal guys. The other is British, so at times it's also like he's speaking a foreign language. I don't speak a word of Japanese, but pictures are worth a 1,000 words at times. I do use the FF button when it's general talk. One, whose the best of the lot by far just started with English sub titles. Need the pause button to really follow what he's doing.
Tamiya tape is simply the best that's easily available. I have their 10, 18, and 40mm rolls ready to go. Personally, I don't use the 6 & 8mm sizes as I prefer to cut the various widths as needed. Then I bought (Sprue Brothers) masking tape in 1, 2, & 4mm widths. I never use regular masking tape or painters tape as it has way to much adhesive. The thin widths are easily bendable. On the other hand Tamiya's Vinyl bendable tape is just plain horrid. Bends great, but has almost no sticking power period, so it moves off your line. Start with lets say the 2mm tape, detack once on the back of your hand, then cut a piece longer then you need. Slowly work along your masking line. The tape will bend and curve as you need it to. Now go back and use wider tape sizes to slowly cover the remaining area of that mask. Always lay the next size you're using partially over the tape just laid down. I usually end up using 3 or more different sizes depending on what's needed. I don't try to see how little tape I can use. I use as much as needed to completely cover the area. And I'm constantly going over the tape with a thin Tamiya paint mixer because the two surfaces are have a concave side that masks massaging the tape down securely without damaging the paint or plastic under it. There are areas that I can't cover that stick up or sink into the plastic. For that I use a liquid mask. I usually have the cuttable type on hand, but I ran out and haven't reordered as yet.
Sounds complicated, but it's not. If I can do it, everyone of you can do it, and do it better. When you're done painting, remove the tape as soon as you finish cleaning your AB. The longer you wait, the larger the demarcation line seems to always be.
Joel
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Post by pnance26 on Sept 15, 2019 9:07:34 GMT -8
And now I am having fits getting the top of the body work to fit down on the side pods. Something is in the way... and I left my colonoscopy scope at work.
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Post by pnance26 on Sept 16, 2019 19:02:59 GMT -8
And now I am having fits getting the top of the body work to fit down on the side pods. Something is in the way... and I left my colonoscopy scope at work. I had to cut down some fitting posts and then use some longer screws but it worked. I will get some photos up tomorrow. Only thing left is to trim some decals and fit the rear wing. I'm not completely satisfied but compared to where we started...
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Post by pnance26 on Sept 17, 2019 11:52:06 GMT -8
And done... First a reminder of where we started... And the before and after... A couple of "beauty shots"... Thanks for looking and your comments are always welcome!
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Post by arcticwolf on Sept 17, 2019 12:09:19 GMT -8
Very nice job - I would call that an improvement!
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Post by Joel_W on Sept 17, 2019 13:00:56 GMT -8
pnance26,
That's a huge improvement !! Looks fantastic. I'm sure that Gilles would have approved.
Joel
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Post by pnance26 on Sept 17, 2019 13:18:24 GMT -8
Thanks, guys! $100 and about 12 hours later... next up is to finish the wife's '56 Ford pick-up, a Peterbilt with working lights and then hopefully, the decals for the Alfa will get here in a couple of weeks.
I'll putter with the 312B engine after the Ford and Peterbilt are done!
Appreciate the words!
P.S. I'll never do a chrome wing again! This looks much better!
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mike_t
Full Time Ride
Posts: 219
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Post by mike_t on Sept 17, 2019 16:44:30 GMT -8
Dang! Nice save, my friend! I wish Gilles had stuck around for awhile longer. I can only imagine what he might have accomplished.
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Post by pnance26 on Sept 17, 2019 18:07:04 GMT -8
Dang! Nice save, my friend! I wish Gilles had stuck around for awhile longer. I can only imagine what he might have accomplished. Thank you, Mike! Next restoration will be the Alfa Romeo 179C! Hope you enjoy the 641/2 as much! This was a real challenge!
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Post by afx on Sept 18, 2019 2:15:22 GMT -8
Very nice. I agree the painted wings look much better than the chrome.
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Post by Joel_W on Sept 18, 2019 5:15:52 GMT -8
pnance26
the rebuild came out great. And that wing looks as realistic as our current state allows. Looking forward to your Alfa rebuild. You can also post both the truck and the Ford here for all of us to enjoy.
Joel
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