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Post by Bernard Kron on Dec 11, 2019 14:36:25 GMT -8
I'm about to start a Union (ex-IMC) Chaparall 2E kit. This is new territory for this hot rod builder, being my first pure sports racing project. Additionally, it can only be a replica build. I'm a rookie in this area, but it appears to be a lovely kit full of very nice detail. I have the Richard Falconer/Dog Nye Chaparall book which I'm using as my reference. Being a virtually pure OOB project I'll be mainly dealing the in area of paint and texture and some minor detailing. Which brings me to my question. Chaparalls were ice box white with minimal trim and decals. The Chaparall book will provide my with a fair amount of the color and detail info I will need. Much of the interior surfaces, suspension and underside are natural metal colored (various shades of aluminum, mainly). The kit body parts are pretty much flawlessly molded and look to be the right color. Is there any reason I shouldn't leave them in bare plastic? It would eliminate a painting risk point and minimize any surface thickness build up. What are your opinions on this?
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Post by robhart on Dec 11, 2019 18:35:21 GMT -8
To my eyes polished plastic always looks like polished plastic. It has a weird translusense to it and does not reflect light the way that paint does. However, it is your model and I highly doubt that you will be building it to please me.
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Post by Bernard Kron on Dec 12, 2019 14:26:17 GMT -8
To my eyes polished plastic always looks like polished plastic. It has a weird translusense to it and does not reflect light the way that paint does. However, it is your model and I highly doubt that you will be building it to please me. Thanks for the reply. I tend to agree with you. While I've been impressed by polished plastic cars I've always treated it as a novelty since I could tell the difference. I would only consider it for something likes this entirely white car. Perhaps I'll do an A-B test to see the outcome. As I referred to in my OP, the risk mitigation is tempting, but not worth it if the effect will be unrealistic, especially on a pure replica project like this. |
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Post by arcticwolf on Dec 13, 2019 7:38:43 GMT -8
This is a MPC McLaren moulded in Orange. When I built it, I didn't have any paint close to the McLaren "papaya" colour, and the plastic body was flawless (for a change), I just gave it 2 coats of Testors gloss clear. It looks OK, but to me it just looks like a shiny plastic car.
Your car, your choice, but if was my Chapparal, I'd paint it Testors White (and wait three weeks for it to cure).
Cheers
Paul
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Post by Bernard Kron on Dec 13, 2019 8:00:39 GMT -8
It's interesting, even in the photo, and significantly, despite the clear coats, it looks vaguely "plasticky". Thanks for the input and photo.
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Post by Chris K. Hale on Dec 13, 2019 9:16:35 GMT -8
Strange I answered this yesterday and my post disappeared as have a couple others on various subjects???
Master Model Maker Dale King once told me, "Paint Everything, Every Part, even if its the same Color, Plastic , well ....... well looks like plastic when left unpainted " Chris
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Post by Bernard Kron on Dec 13, 2019 9:28:00 GMT -8
One thing I've noticed is that, no matter how polished and worked the final surface may be, or indeed how uniform the successive coats of substrate may have been, paint invariably has grain and varaition in hue. If it were truly uniform it would be glass, and only transparent paint approaches that and even then it will be applied over some sort of opaque surface. The grain and variation is what gives it depth, and the implication in this discussion is that this depth is somehow "different" than plastic. So that's the issue that's emerging. So far no one is saying that plastic's OK, let alone an acceptable substitute for paint.
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Post by Deleted on Dec 13, 2019 10:05:25 GMT -8
Strange I answered this yesterday and my post disappeared as have a couple others on various subjects??? Master Model Maker Dale King once told me, "Paint Everything, Every Part, even if its the same Color, Plastic , well ....... well looks like plastic when left unpainted " Chris I would say after having been blown back into my chair time after time viewing Dale Kings masterpieces whatever he says is good enough for me |
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Post by Joel_W on Dec 23, 2019 6:24:30 GMT -8
I paint virtually everything that can easily be seen. Just small out of the way parts that are Matt Black sometimes are left that way. Also, I strip all chrome parts as a general rule at the start of a build, preferring to go the Alcad2 or Mr. Color's Metallics route. The final product always looks well worth the effort.
Joel
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Post by arcticwolf on Dec 23, 2019 11:11:18 GMT -8
I paint virtually everything that can easily be seen. Just small out of the way parts that are Matt Black sometimes are left that way. Also, I strip all chrome parts as a general rule at the start of a build, preferring to go the Alcad2 or Mr. Color's Metallics route. The final product always looks well worth the effort. Joel I have to ask, what do you use to strip off the chrome plating? I've tried bleach, it did nothing. I've used varsol and a lot of rubbing, it works but its time consuming. Lately I've tried sap remover. It works but you have to be careful with it.
??
Paul
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Post by Joel_W on Dec 23, 2019 11:25:13 GMT -8
Paul,
My secrete model chrome remover is Oven Cleaner. I just spray it on and let it do it's work for 15 min. Then I turn it over and do the other side. It's fast and doesn't harm the plastic. I do take precautions. I where Playtex rubber gloves from the Super Market, my respirator, and I do wear eye protection in the form of those cheap plastic goggles. It's pretty caustic so I use a small plastic tub in the garage, and wash down the trees with water, then finish up in the kitchen sink.
I've tried about everything I've read about, but the Oven Cleaner still works the best for me.
Joel
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Post by mustang1989 on Dec 25, 2019 12:13:15 GMT -8
To add my input into the equation. I did NOT paint my 1970 Challenger T/A build when I first built it or the second time around some 35 years later. I guess it just depends on the clear coat and how smooth you can get the body before applying it. Here she is with Testors Wet Look clear ...   |
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Post by eagle36 on Jan 1, 2020 6:51:58 GMT -8
Look at the bright side; at least no one will tell you that you have the wrong shade of white.
I agree with the "paint everything" comment, bare plastic just does not look the part. While you're at it, trash the kit engine, which is more of a big block, and find a nice small block to replace it.
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Post by starfighterace on Jan 2, 2020 6:46:03 GMT -8
If you decide to paint, Ermine White, a GM color form the '60 used until the '80s is the color. Like Ford's Wimbledon White, it was GM's Fleet Color "White". MCW and most automotive places stock this color. Chaparral was the defacto factory team and got many freebies from GM, like the paint.
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