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Post by pnance26 on Dec 11, 2020 8:12:43 GMT -8
Paul, Your build is really capturing my attention for sure. Just love your explanations of the why's for the mods as you proceed through the build. Patrick, I'm also looking forward to your build as the focus will be on more of the kit version but built to your high standards. Joel Thanks, Joel... I am growing a bit bored with the bulldozer as it is really a simplistic kit and it just "busy work". I keep hearing "Build the Matra... Build the Matra!" in my head, so it looks like that will get started. I have also source a place to buy custom made plexi-glass display boxes. The price is the same whether I do one or do three, and since I have three "high airbox" kits from the 1975 era (Ferrari 312T and two McLarens) I am going to spring for the boxes after Christmas. One has to build the base, which is simple if you have access to a table saw... and some laminate bits. I can give anyone who is interested a very quick tutorial on how to make the bases... like this one... When finished, there is a lip to fit the top case over that makes it nice and snug... I had one of these cases take a dive off a shelf at a friends, and while it did crack, it didn't shatter. I'll try to get you a photo tomorrow. Let me know if you all want the source. They custom build display boxes and I used them some 25 years ago and the same salesman is still there! Didn't mean to hijack Paul's thread!
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Post by Joel_W on Dec 11, 2020 8:32:13 GMT -8
Patrick, I've always bought those cheap but more then useable display cases for 1/24 & 1/20 scale models. Both sizes have surpassed my expectations. What started out as under $10 for the larger size, today goes for over $20. I just might try to learn how to make my own as I've been reduced to using those opaque ones that I find in Home Depot. Better then nothing, but far from what I really need.
Joel
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Post by arcticwolf on Dec 19, 2020 23:18:17 GMT -8
A lot of work and a little progress. Since the engine won't "lock" like a Cosworth usually does, I drilled out the bits and made some dowels for extra bonding and to ensure alignment.
Some mods to the Matra Hewland so that it will mate to the Cosworth. I used the Matra's because of the accessory pickup points:
It also helps to keep the wheelbase accurate.
It's repairs to little pieces like this that take forever and drive you mental:
However, with the block and tranny painted and installed, the front end cleaned up, more paint and a couple of decals - everything seems to line up properly so far, and not looking quite as scruffy:
The marks on the front rocker arms won't show, there are some weird winglets that attach on top of them. My cam covers will line up perfectly with the gas tank extension, so I'm a happy camper so far:
There's two coats of Testors clear on it, so I'm parking it for a while to let it cure.
I have a fair bit of resin casting to do and that's a slow process for me, latex molds are a pain but they sometimes work. And lots of problems still to solve, mainly I'm missing both axles, and a lot of holes to drill and new pins to replace all the broken stuff. Plus this kit is old and stuff is very brittle, well, you know.
So long 'til next time.
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Post by mustang1989 on Dec 20, 2020 6:41:38 GMT -8
THAT.....is coming along very nicely!!!
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Post by Joel_W on Dec 20, 2020 7:34:23 GMT -8
Paul, As usual, just outstanding fabrication to solve some of those pesky issues. With the lower tub decaled and clearcoated, engine/trans installed, and the basics of the front suspension in place, I'd say that you're making excellent progress.
Joel
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Post by pnance26 on Dec 21, 2020 12:04:51 GMT -8
Patrick, I've always bought those cheap but more then useable display cases for 1/24 & 1/20 scale models. Both sizes have surpassed my expectations. What started out as under $10 for the larger size, today goes for over $20. I just might try to learn how to make my own as I've been reduced to using those opaque ones that I find in Home Depot. Better then nothing, but far from what I really need. Joel Too bad no one makes a 1/12th scale...
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Post by Joel_W on Dec 23, 2020 5:29:57 GMT -8
Patrick, You can get cases made for various scale ships that I've seen on Sbrue Brothers, but they ain't cheap by any means.
Joel
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Post by arcticwolf on Dec 23, 2020 14:48:59 GMT -8
One let down with the Tamiya kit is just paint the floor black and call it a seat. Maybe they expected us to install the driver, in any event I've seen Stewart's cars up close and in person, and they always had lots of padding to keep "Wee Jackie" from flopping around. So, I needed a seat, and I just happen to have one from an obscure Ferrari kit as yet unbuilt, which fits (almost) perfectly. So I figured I'd clone it. A latex mold, and then some resin castings including some clones of the rear crossmember which I need for future projects:
The molds are on the right. The green thing is a piece of play-doh I just pressed against my Honda as I need some suspension pickup points that the MS11 didn't have, but the 10 does. Simple and quick. The red seat is because I used an old tee shirt as re-enforcement - just like hand laid fibreglass. Next step was to clean off the flash and machine the lump into something that would fit. Halfway through I realized it would have been easier to trim the Ferrari seat to fit the Matra, the resin copy would have dropped in the Ferrari. Nobody said I was clever. I ended up with this:
It makes more sense with a coat of primer, like most things:
And then 2 coats of rubber black:
And istalled in the car, avec some seat belts. I can't swear to it's authenticity, but it looks a whole lot better, and at least the contours are accurate:
I have a mild sensitivity to resin, so I try to minimize it, but sometimes it's the solution. All told, that little procedure took about 2 weeks, start to finish. But I now have a crossmember to work with, so I can get on with (hopefully) building the rear end of the car.
Cheers guys Paul
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Post by afx on Dec 23, 2020 16:13:24 GMT -8
Seat casting looks great Paul. I need to learn how to do simple resin casting for parts like this.
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Post by pnance26 on Dec 23, 2020 16:14:56 GMT -8
Looks good, Paul!
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Post by Joel_W on Dec 24, 2020 6:20:31 GMT -8
Paul, I'm super impressed with the seat. I'd say you solved another issue perfectly. I just wasn't prepared for the 2 week time frame. Is that normal for the course?
Joel
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Post by arcticwolf on Dec 27, 2020 14:48:50 GMT -8
Paul, I'm super impressed with the seat. I'd say you solved another issue perfectly. I just wasn't prepared for the 2 week time frame. Is that normal for the course? Joel No, it's short. Normal is 2 months and it doesn't work. It depends on the item, and degree of accuracy needed. Latex molds are brushed on a layer at a time until you get it thick enough that you think it will hold its shape. Each coat takes 1 - 2 days to cure. Even then I add a re-enforcement, like pouring Plaster of Paris over it. So yes, they take a long time, but you can usually get 2 or 3 resin clones from each mold. I had a very nice Revell 1/25th Ford engine that I made 4 complete copies of, so worth the effort that time. A quick way is simply press the part into some Play-Doh, and fill immediately with resin. It won't be as accurate and doesn't always work, but for simple shapes it can work fine for the purpose. Remember to spray some kind of mold release agent first!! Silicone spray works, but so does Pam, and I can always steal that from the kitchen. I'm still trial and error on all this stuff, I would defer to those who actually know what they're doing for further info.
But thank you Joel, I think the seat worked out OK too.
Paul
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Post by arcticwolf on Dec 29, 2020 7:08:34 GMT -8
Hi guys. With the whole Province locked down, no visitors allowed blah blah it sure didn't feel like Christmas. But I did get some work done, although it doesn't look like much. I made a clone of the rear cross member. I could have used the originals, but they're too valuable as masters for future projects, so the clones went on the car. Originals on the left, copies on the right, part resin and part made from basic styrene stock:
I had no axles, so I cobbled some up from styrene tube and some bits from the Lotus parts bin that just happen to fit nicely (and nowhere near where they were originally intended). The axles telescope so I have some adjustment leeway, not authentic to the car but at least they look like axles, sort of:
A lot of time spent drilling out broken off pieces and making new pins - too much time! However, with the new pieces cleaned up and painted and installed, I managed to get one side of the suspension to work out:
The coils springs are rusty. I could have cleaned them up and painted them, but I thought how more authentic can you get than real rusty coils? So I'm leaving them as is! The problem was the other side, some missing bits and more broken parts, but modifying some Lotus hub parts I got it to work:
Fitting the exhausts was a #*%$ to say the least. It's mostly Lotus, heated up and bent until it fit. It's not as compact as the MS10 should be, but it looks OK I hope. I did find that, being a French car, it does respond fairly well to some colourful Quebecois invectives:
Some styrene rod for the bulkhead braces and trailing arm repairs, and I'll have some touch up painting to do for sure! The exhaust pipe carrier is from the 72 kit with some modifications:
It's not going to be even 75% accurate, but it might look like an MS10 eventually. I'm beginning to wish I'd never started it, but I'm too stubborn to quit.
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Post by afx on Dec 29, 2020 9:12:14 GMT -8
Race car fabrication is hard work.
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Post by Joel_W on Dec 29, 2020 9:20:59 GMT -8
Paul, Absolutely impressive scratch built parts. Each one starting with that rear cross member surely was worth the time and effort. The rear suspension as well as those axles came out darn near perfect. But the exhausts look like they were molded by Tamiya for the kit.
Joel
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