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Post by Joel_W on Jul 11, 2019 5:31:09 GMT -8
Sam, Decals, especially since they're the kit decals look great. But I have the same question as JC, if you're going to paint the tail end Dark Blue, how are you going to go about it and not damage the decals?
Joel
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Post by sam on Jul 11, 2019 6:35:37 GMT -8
Well guys, I did something I have not done before. Since I did not want the blue showing through the red of the decal, I cleared over the decals and will mask off the edge and spray the blue then clear over everything again.
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Post by Joel_W on Jul 11, 2019 7:06:01 GMT -8
Well guys, I did something I have not done before. Since I did not want the blue showing through the red of the decal, I cleared over the decals and will mask off the edge and spray the blue then clear over everything again. Sam, I've got to be honest with you. I've had very poor results masking over decals that have been cleared to protect them. More often then not, I managed to pull up some of the decal as the force of pulling up the tape over the clear, pulled the decal up as well. Now this does go back years to my military modeling days. But on the positive side, I've seen a few guys do this without issue. Joel
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cc
Full Time Ride
Posts: 141
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Post by cc on Jul 11, 2019 13:13:46 GMT -8
Sam, That looks good. As Joel and JC said it going to be a little touchie. I would recommend letting the clear set up for a week or so before taping up. Us Tamia tape as its less likely to pull up. Just burnish the seam edge and I think you will be ok.
CC π
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Post by sam on Jul 11, 2019 16:00:11 GMT -8
Thanks for the heads up. I will wait at least a week and then be super careful.
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Post by Joel_W on Jul 12, 2019 6:01:19 GMT -8
Sam, Since you're committed to masking as your only viable option, I'd detack the Tamiya tape to the point of it barely being able to stick to the clear. Burnish well, then several tack coats to seal the edges. I've got my fingers crossed for you.
Joel
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Post by afx on Jul 12, 2019 7:34:03 GMT -8
You could also skip the dark blue and leave the cars as is.
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Post by Chris K. Hale on Jul 12, 2019 7:41:09 GMT -8
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Post by Joel_W on Jul 12, 2019 9:23:17 GMT -8
You could also skip the dark blue and leave the cars as is. JC, Was the car run that way too? Joel
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Post by sam on Jul 12, 2019 16:21:45 GMT -8
You could also skip the dark blue and leave the cars as is. That is a thought....I will contemplate the remaining decals and see if they will all go on over white
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Post by afx on Jul 15, 2019 2:54:33 GMT -8
You could also skip the dark blue and leave the cars as is. JC, Was the car run that way too? Joel I haven't tried to research it Joel so I can't say.
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Post by Ben_B on Jul 15, 2019 7:21:25 GMT -8
Back in the early days of Metalizer paints, before Testors bought them out, pretty much the only way to mask without pulling up the paint was to use wet newspaper. It would stick well enough to stay on the model long enough to spray your next coat of paint. You just have to mist the paint on, so it dried before it got under the mask, and spray away from the edge, so you didn't lift it. You can work in sections to make the masking a little easier. The straight edges and the car's lack of curves will work in your favor.
EDIT: Also, try using an acrylic paint, like Tamiya, Gunze, or (yuck) Testors Acryl. That way, if any paint does wick under your mask, you can remove it from the decal with a Q-tip dipped in Windex. If you've hopefully used a solvent-based clear coat, it won't hurt the decal. If you used something like Future, it will strip the clear coat and might fade the decal.
Ben
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