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Post by arcticwolf on Apr 6, 2020 13:28:10 GMT -8
This isn't a knock against Mike, I've dealt with him a fair bit and he's really good. But.
I bought a set of Fred Cady decals for my Watson (Roger Ward's car). Never again. If you look at the sheet, they are printed so that the decals have to be overlaid on eachother to create the image, as much as 4 times for 2 of them. Bit of a nightmare to get the register correct.
But I tried, I even got the red wrapped around the nose! Very fragile, rips easy, but salvagable. Then I tried applying one small decal over the red panel, and just the slightest touch of micro set and the damn thing wrinkled up. I'm supposed to get four layers lined up and I can't even use any setting agent? So, OK, what if I clear coat between each layer? I applied a small one as a test, let it set overnight, and a very light shot of clear. The Tamiya TS13 dissolved it. It literally melted. The decals have been stripped off the car and I await replacements from Indycals. I'll still happily deal with Mike's Decals, but not his Fred Cady line. Absolute junk. Unfortunately I have other Fred Cady decals, I think I might scan them and print them myself, I might have better luck!
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Post by 4wheels on Apr 6, 2020 17:29:30 GMT -8
Paul - Sorry you are having trouble! Don't judge from one bad experience! Fred Cady's decals were the first fairly accurate aftermarket sheets ever available. I've used them many times with no problems at all. That said, they are getting pretty old (I think he stopped making them quite a few years ago) and I haven't worked with any in a while (altho I do plan on using some in the future). I never had any problems with the layering or setting solutions. I always let the each layer dry at least overnight before applying the next, always used Solvaset (all I knew about back then) and only had one instance of a clear coat attacking them. Never have used Tamiya clear on anything (heard too many horror stories), usually Future or Testors lacquer clear. Just an FYI, I always wait longer than overnight to clear anything. I suppose its possible you got a bad sheet or maybe they are getting too old to use without an additional coating on them. I still have many sheets that he did that no one else has done, but I wouldn't any longer buy any sheets of his that were available from a current producer (Powerslide, Indycals, Ol' Days, etc.). My first ever contest entry was a Monogram stock car with Cady decals, won Best in Show at an IPMS show against all the tanks and planes!
Brian
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Post by Chris K. Hale on Apr 7, 2020 17:21:17 GMT -8
I have Never had a problem with Cady decals, yeah at one point they were the only game in town but the quality and accuracy was Great. Be extremely careful buying them on ebay Now, that Theresa whatever her name is , Is copying the on an Ink Jet printer just like everyone has, clears them and puts them out there. They are in my book a Cheap Knock off and cause nothing but problems. Most have been done by reputable makers now and ....well just be careful. If you need some original Cady decals I have about 120, mostly Indy and Sports Car sets that I would let go for $8.EA. shipped. so ask dont get burned..Yeah! They are a pain to cut out and layer but what fun would it be if our level of modeling was easy Chris
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Post by arcticwolf on Apr 7, 2020 18:25:26 GMT -8
Thank you Brian, and Chris, for your insight, you both have way more knowledge and experience with this than I do. I rarely ever decalled anything before I joined up here, until Joel got me interested in it and guided me through how and what. I just never had any success before, but lately I've been able to pull off some decent results. I think Brian is correct, this set is just too old. They certainly behave like it. And the last few kits I've done, I've used brand new and quite high quality decals, so I'm getting spoiled also. I would have dealt with the register issue, maybe not happily, but when they won't slide without tearing into little bits whats the point. It was just disappointing, as Mike's is usually a very good supplier. Fred Cady I had heard of, I think I have used them long ago, but I'm not sure. Teresa whatshername I know, she may claim to be a wulf but she's not from my pack. I actually bought from her - yes they are junk - but my plan was to scan them and print my own. Sometimes it works. I found if I let the ink dry and then gave a light spray of clear they worked better, just hard to manage on a curved surface. Maybe a coat of Micro decal film would be a better idea, haven't tried yet. As for your stash of oddball decal Chris, I'd be happy to take advantage! I'll pm you, also about a Porsche. Again, thanks guys, it's nice to make new friends. And take care, it's dangerous out there.
Paul
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Post by 4wheels on Apr 8, 2020 4:34:10 GMT -8
Paul - Just be careful with the Decal Film, it can thicken decals to the point they won't conform well. Try to put on the thinnest coat possible, and I usually need to use Solvaset with any coated decal. As far as the layering issue, since Cady decals were the first aftermarket decals I ever used, that has never bothered me. When you get a multi-layered sheet that is out of register, there is really no solution, but if you layer them yourself, its all on you! Just takes a little longer. My Sonny Hutchins Monte Carlo uses decals with an extra layer of plain white underlay to sharpen the colors and brighten the white.
Brian
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Post by starfighterace on Apr 8, 2020 6:19:55 GMT -8
Whatever Tamiya did to the TS-13 clear formula a few years ago makes using it a crap shoot. Sometimes it melts the sturdiest decals and paint, other times it's as gentle as a feather. So I only use it on slot car bodies now. Not worth the risk.
Another vote for the quality of Fred Cady Decals. Loved them to death. Used many over the years and still do. Why I started to make car decals because I have run out of many of the sets I used over the years.
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Post by arcticwolf on Apr 8, 2020 8:03:13 GMT -8
Paul - Just be careful with the Decal Film, it can thicken decals to the point they won't conform well. Try to put on the thinnest coat possible, and I usually need to use Solvaset with any coated decal. As far as the layering issue, since Cady decals were the first aftermarket decals I ever used, that has never bothered me. When you get a multi-layered sheet that is out of register, there is really no solution, but if you layer them yourself, its all on you! Just takes a little longer. My Sonny Hutchins Monte Carlo uses decals with an extra layer of plain white underlay to sharpen the colors and brighten the white. Brian Hi Brian
At the moment a lot of experimenting is going on up here in the woods, I'll let you guys know what seems to work, or most likely doesn't! I don't mind doubled decals, I've used the white underlay before, I'd just rather not if I can help it. Maybe I'm just a lazy bugger. But when you can't slide a decal into position without tearing it to pieces, somethings wrong. My home printed ones have about a 50% success rate, frustrating but at least I can always print another set. But I really don't want to go into the decal printing business as such. If my Epson won't do it, I let somebody else solve it. And thanks for confirming my suspicions about the decal film overcoat.
cheers mate
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Post by arcticwolf on Apr 8, 2020 8:13:40 GMT -8
Whatever Tamiya did to the TS-13 clear formula a few years ago makes using it a crap shoot. Sometimes it melts the sturdiest decals and paint, other times it's as gentle as a feather. So I only use it on slot car bodies now. Not worth the risk. Another vote for the quality of Fred Cady Decals. Loved them to death. Used many over the years and still do. Why I started to make car decals because I have run out of many of the sets I used over the years. Thanks Mark. I totally agree about the Tamiya clear, but up here finding the Testors lacquer is difficult, and I don't airbrush so not a lot of other options. And with everything closed down at the moment, damn near impossible to re-supply.
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Post by Ben_B on Apr 8, 2020 9:48:05 GMT -8
Paul - Just be careful with the Decal Film, it can thicken decals to the point they won't conform well. Try to put on the thinnest coat possible, and I usually need to use Solvaset with any coated decal. As far as the layering issue, since Cady decals were the first aftermarket decals I ever used, that has never bothered me. When you get a multi-layered sheet that is out of register, there is really no solution, but if you layer them yourself, its all on you! Just takes a little longer. My Sonny Hutchins Monte Carlo uses decals with an extra layer of plain white underlay to sharpen the colors and brighten the white. Brian A problem I’ve had multiple times with liquid decal film is when you apply setting solution, the film and the decal react differently so the decal acts like a bi-metal strip and curls up. It’s very difficult to salvage at that point. Ben
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Post by starfighterace on Apr 9, 2020 6:11:12 GMT -8
ArticWolf, that's a real bummer. I love Mr Color GX-100 for clear. Tricky to use, but once you get the hang of it, blows everything else in the weeds. Only Dupont 2 part chroma-clear exceeds it (and you need a license, full body suit, and enclosed & ventilated paint booth to use it).
The only Testors "clear" that was close to a true clear is "Wet Look" clear. It caused a different set of problems as it cracked the underlying paint (Testors Wimbelton white exclusivly it seemed), or in another project, looked like alligator skin (another Testors Automotive color) . This was over Testors paint! I forgot what it was that caused this problem. I do remember it wasn't outgassing, as most of my bodies sit 6 moths to a year before applications of clear. Now, since I switched to Mr Color GX-100, no more problems.
Good to know someone else can make it work. Just my lack of talent or poor luck.
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