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Post by bsmooth on May 14, 2020 8:08:31 GMT -8
I never said Tamiya Spray cans were bad. But since I do have an airbrush, I would like to use it for both priming and finish coats. But which airbrush paints to use ? So far I'm not sure, which is what I'm interested in. Plus from what I've seen on videos, acrylics don't seem to be very good as far as sandable primers. Tamiya does make a liquid Surface Primer, but its a lacquer.
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Post by tatocorvette on May 14, 2020 8:38:04 GMT -8
My rule of thumb: Lacquer under everything, lacquer over nothing else. I have used now discontinued Plastikote T235 lacquer primer exclusively for decades. Never had a problem with plastic. BEWARE there is still a T235 out there but it is not the original product. You can paint anything (lacquer, enamel or acrylic) over lacquer primer. You can not paint lacquer paint over anything other than lacquer primer. Some exceptions may apply but this is general rule of thumb. lacquer over lacquer OK enamel over lacquer OK acrylic over lacquer OK acrylic over enamel OK enamel over acrylic Mehhhh risky but may work lacquer over enamel NO lacquer over acrylic NO NO Your mileage may vary. Some restrictions apply. See owner manual for details. Permanent press. Machine wash only in cold water.  Thanks, Ismael |
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Post by bsmooth on May 14, 2020 10:36:28 GMT -8
I think I'll either play it safe and use this:
as I've heard Model master primer is pretty good OR
this which is a lacquer base primer: which I've also heard very good things as well I may just get both since there fairly cheap, but at least for this go around go with the Model Master because its probably safer to use(less smell) Now I just need to figure out color Dale Jr Red ? and a clear coat to put over it. Looks like I'll have to get very fine sandpaper as well to bring out the clear coat.
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on May 14, 2020 19:33:04 GMT -8
"I use Tamiya Grey and White Primer" what specifically do you use? I thought they made just spray cans for Primer ?
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Post by bsmooth on May 15, 2020 4:29:15 GMT -8
That grey looks great, didn't realize you could thin it and spray it as well.
Just to change things up a bit I started really getting into the parts in the kit. I know its been awhile but I don't remember there being so much flash on the parts. Right now I'm using small needle files and then sand paper to clean them up, it quite a time consuming process, and its hard to see how far the flash goes and where the parts actually begin.
Is that the usual process, to clean up all the parts first of all flash and mold lines ?
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on May 15, 2020 7:59:42 GMT -8
That grey looks great, didn't realize you could thin it and spray it as well. Just to change things up a bit I started really getting into the parts in the kit. I know its been awhile but I don't remember there being so much flash on the parts. Right now I'm using small needle files and then sand paper to clean them up, it quite a time consuming process, and its hard to see how far the flash goes and where the parts actually begin. Is that the usual process, to clean up all the parts first of all flash and mold lines ?
Like I said this process is more time consuming and I will end up with a container that has every single piece of the model mounted on a paint stick of it's own.
This method works for me and I'm willing to take the extra time in order to create a more realistic part - you may find a way that you prefer more - no way is wrong - just different and basically dependant on how much time you are willing to invest in cleaning and shaping each model part in order to create realism, finish, polish, and a truly 'CLEAN" build in the end. |
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Post by bsmooth on May 15, 2020 8:16:37 GMT -8
I'm trying to clean them up on the tree as well, but I'm really not liking it, as I know another step is waiting after it comes off the tree. As I said though the biggest problem so far as I just can't see where the flash ends and the part begins. Its different with every part of course, I would say 90% are easy to tell. I guess those younger eyes I had years ago, would come in handy right now. I have a lighted magnifier, but I think the magnification probably isn't that strong. I wish I had my microscope from work, but that might be a bit of overkill and probably a little too much like being at work. BTW I am a QC inspector, and have been for some 40 odd years, so I have a very keen eye for detail. So of all things I will appreciate the work you guys do even more than most, in a way its just doing my job. I have to say though, its both a blessing and a curse at the same time. Sometime I wish I could just shut it off. Its taken me a very, very long time to say something is good enough and leave it at that. As an example I was doing the rubber hose on the radiator, loaded with flash, and there I am filing each section free of flash. I still think it could be better, and I may go back to it and check, but isn't that just being a bit too anal ? I know one thing I need a better lighted magnifier. Nice to know I'm not the only one with an eye for detail, I definitely came to the right place !
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Post by pnance26 on May 16, 2020 8:19:07 GMT -8
I was going to use the airbrush to spray the primer, but most seem to use cans. Out of these 2 which would you use in an airbrush for a primer -
Vallejo Surface Primer Vs Badger Stynylrez ?
Neither... save yourself a step of cleaning your airbrush of primer by using rattlecan primer as 2whl says... I have Tamiya gery, white, and pink. I think they also make a yellow. It dries quickly and is a great primer! Why create more problems by running primer through your airbrush? |
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Post by pnance26 on May 16, 2020 8:23:20 GMT -8
Here is my 2 cents on the subject my friend (by the way 2whl provided you with an absolutely excellent complete guide to painting - it's bang on)
If you really want to produce a model that will impress both yourself and others then you have to go airbrush all the way - for everything - that's my advice mate - I used to use cans and it's 2 different worlds - if you don't care about the finished product being impressive then sure just use cans - but if you want to try and create something special then it's an airbrush on everything.
I have posted 2 Nascar builds here in this section that you are welcome to check out and if you have any questions as to how I did anything then feel free to ask.
I use Tamiya Grey and White Primer - nothing else - it's the best in my opinion - I will post a pic of my Darlington Camaro tomorrow for you as it is just in the pre-paint stage and has been primed with Tamiya white because it will be florescent colours used.
My advice to you is to do what I did when I joined this group - spend the time to look around at the other builds and see what you think is the level that you want to achieve - and then ask those members questions - everyone here is very helpful and positive for the most part so don't hesitate to speak up  I seem to do more than okay with rattle cans... but I also wet sanded to 2000 and then polish sanded to 12000 the first pass at mist/mist/wet... after sanding that out, I went mist/mist/wet... seems like it in there with any airbrush job I've seen...   |
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mike_t
Full Time Ride
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Post by mike_t on May 17, 2020 4:18:59 GMT -8
When it comes to preparing the rattle can, you want to thoroughly shake the can to make sure the solvents and pigments in the can are completely mixed, normally shaking for 1-2 minutes should be sufficient. Another invaluable tip I have learnt, and which I do religiously now, is warm the spray can. Do this by simply placing the can in some warm water (it must not be hotter than you can handle with your hand), by heating the can it helps the paint flow better when spraying since the warm paint has an increased viscosity, I personally believe it also helps maintain a good constant pressure out of the can too. This is a great tip and I know I shouldn't have to say this but please pay attention! You don't need to put it in a pot of boiling water on the stove, it doesn't need to be baked in the oven nor does it need to be jammed in the microwave for 10 minutes! Standing in a simple pot of warm tap water for 5 minutes does just fine for me. If the can gets too hot it WILL explode, possibly causing personal injury, making a nasty mess and worst of all, your better half will be incredibly upset and as we all know, that's worse than any paint can explosion could ever be! |
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Post by 2whl on May 17, 2020 5:15:56 GMT -8
This is a great tip and I know I shouldn't have to say this but please pay attention! You don't need to put it in a pot of boiling water on the stove, it doesn't need to be baked in the oven nor does it need to be jammed in the microwave for 10 minutes! Standing in a simple pot of warm tap water for 5 minutes does just fine for me. If the can gets too hot it WILL explode, possibly causing personal injury, making a nasty mess and worst of all, your better half will be incredibly upset and as we all know, that's worse than any paint can explosion could ever be! Actually, I have found something easier than hot water. I use a medical heating pad. A few minutes in the microwave, then I wrap it around the can.  |
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Post by pnance26 on May 20, 2020 8:10:46 GMT -8
When it comes to preparing the rattle can, you want to thoroughly shake the can to make sure the solvents and pigments in the can are completely mixed, normally shaking for 1-2 minutes should be sufficient. Another invaluable tip I have learnt, and which I do religiously now, is warm the spray can. Do this by simply placing the can in some warm water (it must not be hotter than you can handle with your hand), by heating the can it helps the paint flow better when spraying since the warm paint has an increased viscosity, I personally believe it also helps maintain a good constant pressure out of the can too. This is a great tip and I know I shouldn't have to say this but please pay attention! You don't need to put it in a pot of boiling water on the stove, it doesn't need to be baked in the oven nor does it need to be jammed in the microwave for 10 minutes! Standing in a simple pot of warm tap water for 5 minutes does just fine for me. If the can gets too hot it WILL explode, possibly causing personal injury, making a nasty mess and worst of all, your better half will be incredibly upset and as we all know, that's worse than any paint can explosion could ever be! I use an old Mr. Coffee coffemaker. I just run water through it and then put the hot water in an old Planter's peanut can (the small size). I never let it heat up more than I can hold in my hand. A couple of more shakes and wipe the water off the can on my pants and I am ready to go! |
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Post by bsmooth on May 20, 2020 8:23:33 GMT -8
I wonder If it would work with Airbrushing as well. I don't see why not.
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Post by Art on May 20, 2020 13:20:37 GMT -8
I like to use Tamiya spray can also, but I have started using Alclad primers in my airbrush, which I really like for some applications, especially when I'm really just looking for surface flaws on parts. I use a whole lot less, so it's very economical. For an overall body, I tend to stick with Tamiya.
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Post by bsmooth on Jun 2, 2020 8:48:54 GMT -8
Anyone have a clue to the color red that is used. It seems its very similar to tamiya TS8. But I want to shoot it using an airbrush, and eventually Clear coat. Is there some place to go to check colors ?
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