Post by Joel_W on Jun 7, 2020 11:16:01 GMT -8
The FIA Racing Body had two classes in their Touring car series which I've always refered to as closed wheel Tin Tops, GT1 and GT2. these two classes completed with the prototype classes from sprint races to 24 hour hours, with LeMans as the big prize. The cars, which looked like what you saw in the various manufacture showrooms where anything but that. Fully developed from the ground up for racing, were out of the reach of most private teams even if they could afford them. So in 2005 the FIA created the GT3 class.
The GT3 cars were literally showroom cars in every sense of the word. Anyone with enough money could buy one, and then modify it to the very strict/limited rules and go racing. Well, to make a long story short, the GT3 class has become the most popular of the 3 classes by a wide margin, where almost all the factories with cars in the series have official factory or professional teams representing them. As a matter of fact, GT1 is gone, and GT2 is a mere shell of what it once was. Even IMSA has series for the GT3 cars here in States.
Needless to say, I'm a huge fan of GT3 racing. I'm also one of the oldest Auto Sim racers that I know online, and my favorite series to race both on and off line are GT3 cars. And one of my favorite GT3 cars to race is the Audi R8 LMS, which actually won it's class at the 2015 24 hrs of LeMans.
So when Nunu announced that they were making a model of this car, I just couldn't wait. Took what seemed like forever, but I finally got the kit. As with all the Nunu/Platz/Beemax kits, it's a semi curbside model with just the lower suspension, engine & transaxle included. Hence, the bonnet doesn't open up as there's no upper engine.
the instructions start with the chassis sub assemblies, but I much prefer to build, prepare, paint, and decal the body shell 1st. So I started on step 11.
After removing what just could be a World's record for sprue attachment points, as well as plently of alignment supports so that the shell didn't twist or warp out of shape during the molding and cooling process. I'd gladely spend the clean up time then have to figure out how to straighten a problematic shell. As usual, vents and intakes are on the thick side.
Here's a picture I borrowed from the Net as I forgot to take one while thinning the individual vent blades for the front wheel air vents.
and after I thinned it to a more scale appearance
I also opened up the Naca Ducts on the hood, as well as the intake ducts on the side of the front fenders.
I gave the shell a light wet sanding with 600 paper, and put it on my Tamiya paint stand.
Next came priming with my go to primer: Mr.Finisher Surfacer 1500 light gray thinned with Mr. Leveler #400
As always, thanks so much for stopping by and checking out my build. It's much appreciated.
Joel
The GT3 cars were literally showroom cars in every sense of the word. Anyone with enough money could buy one, and then modify it to the very strict/limited rules and go racing. Well, to make a long story short, the GT3 class has become the most popular of the 3 classes by a wide margin, where almost all the factories with cars in the series have official factory or professional teams representing them. As a matter of fact, GT1 is gone, and GT2 is a mere shell of what it once was. Even IMSA has series for the GT3 cars here in States.
Needless to say, I'm a huge fan of GT3 racing. I'm also one of the oldest Auto Sim racers that I know online, and my favorite series to race both on and off line are GT3 cars. And one of my favorite GT3 cars to race is the Audi R8 LMS, which actually won it's class at the 2015 24 hrs of LeMans.
So when Nunu announced that they were making a model of this car, I just couldn't wait. Took what seemed like forever, but I finally got the kit. As with all the Nunu/Platz/Beemax kits, it's a semi curbside model with just the lower suspension, engine & transaxle included. Hence, the bonnet doesn't open up as there's no upper engine.
the instructions start with the chassis sub assemblies, but I much prefer to build, prepare, paint, and decal the body shell 1st. So I started on step 11.
After removing what just could be a World's record for sprue attachment points, as well as plently of alignment supports so that the shell didn't twist or warp out of shape during the molding and cooling process. I'd gladely spend the clean up time then have to figure out how to straighten a problematic shell. As usual, vents and intakes are on the thick side.
Here's a picture I borrowed from the Net as I forgot to take one while thinning the individual vent blades for the front wheel air vents.
and after I thinned it to a more scale appearance
I also opened up the Naca Ducts on the hood, as well as the intake ducts on the side of the front fenders.
I gave the shell a light wet sanding with 600 paper, and put it on my Tamiya paint stand.
Next came priming with my go to primer: Mr.Finisher Surfacer 1500 light gray thinned with Mr. Leveler #400
As always, thanks so much for stopping by and checking out my build. It's much appreciated.
Joel