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Post by afx on Sept 8, 2020 3:53:13 GMT -8
Very nice work so far Joel.
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Post by Joel_W on Sept 10, 2020 15:34:24 GMT -8
JC, Thanks for stopping by and having a look. I'm thrilled that you like my efforts to date. hopefully another update tomorrow or Saturday at the latest.
Joel
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Post by mustang1989 on Sept 11, 2020 5:55:23 GMT -8
Damn Joel! That looks great so far.
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Post by Joel_W on Sept 12, 2020 9:52:00 GMT -8
Time for another update on my BMW M3. I finished painting and then detail painting the rest of the lower suspension components. as well as the basically stock road exhaust system. Duel exhaust pipes continued from the exhaust header pipes to what must surely be a catalytic converter, and then to a street legal muffler. I'm assuming that the rules must have required the use of the stock exhaust system. Otherwise, why use it? All four disc brakes were one piece units that were detail painted. The AM detail set had metal disc cover plates that I CA glued into place. Just behind each disc brake assembly the coil over shock is visible. But once the wheel and tires are attached, one will never see either. Maybe I should start to give some consideration to making or buying jack stands so that I can display at least one brake assembly moving forward with other builds. The wheels are removable, so I just might add that feature to this build down the road. Next up I revisited the body shell. I rubbed out the Mr. Color Gloss Clear Coat with 4,000 through 12,000 Micro Mesh emery cloth pcs, then polished and waxed it with the Gravity system. Honestly, I'm truly disappointed with how the body shell turned out. This definitely isn't one of my better efforts. What looks like orange peel in places isn't. It's the surface of the plastic that for some reason felt rough to the touch, more like what you'd expect on a piece of armor, and certainly not like any Beemax kit I've built previously. I did give it a light rub and buff with 1-3,000 Tamiya sponges, and thought that I'd taken care of the issue, but it sure doesn't look like I did. I even thought about stripping, refinishing, and repainting. I'd have to order a new bottle of paint, but I couldn't find the correct decals even on ebay, so I'm just going to live with it and move on. Joel
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Post by 2whl on Sept 12, 2020 17:17:31 GMT -8
Looking great, Joel. The detailing on the chassis is excellent.
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Post by Joel_W on Sept 13, 2020 14:14:19 GMT -8
Paul, Thanks for stopping by and checking out my progress to date. It's always much appreciated. Joel
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Post by tatocorvette on Sept 13, 2020 14:58:26 GMT -8
Love that chassis! It looks like a million separate parts! Forget the body, display it upside down
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Post by Joel_W on Sept 13, 2020 16:05:58 GMT -8
Ismael, Thanks for the support, I guess that I'm just feeling sorry for myself. And I thought of the same exact display concept of turning it upside down. Just might work.
Joel
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Post by tatocorvette on Sept 13, 2020 16:27:18 GMT -8
I suppose you have seen this Thanks, Ismael
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Post by Ben_B on Sept 13, 2020 16:46:09 GMT -8
Speedycop is active in the LeMons race series. He’s come up with some insane entries! One year he raced a car based on an airplane fuselage: LINK Ben
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Post by Joel_W on Sept 14, 2020 5:09:43 GMT -8
Ismael, Actually, this is the 1st time I've seen any of those pictures. Are both up and down or down and up drive trains fully functional?
Joel
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Post by tatocorvette on Sept 14, 2020 8:55:36 GMT -8
From what I understand these are just fiberglass shells that go over a donor car. Similar to a kit car. Nothing is really upside down. Just the illusion
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Post by afx on Sept 15, 2020 9:41:50 GMT -8
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Post by Joel_W on Sept 15, 2020 10:11:25 GMT -8
JC, Thanks for the complete step by step guide. I'm going to build one of a few as I can see this as a great way to display any car or chassis so that hidden details can be seen.
Joel
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Post by Joel_W on Sept 17, 2020 5:28:44 GMT -8
I been thinking about adding another Clear Gloss wet coat, followed by a final further 25% thinned wet coat. What I'm concerned about is that I've already waxed the body shell to protect it from constant rough handling. Is there a safe way to remove the thin layer of Gravity Wax without damaging the Mr. Color Lacquer Gloss clearcoat? I've thought about Iso Alcohol, but I use both Iso and Denatured Alcohol to strip all paint types, so neither are a valid option.
Any and all suggestions will be greatly appreciated.
Joel
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