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Post by Ben_B on Feb 23, 2021 10:23:27 GMT -8
Decals are almost done! I should have used more heat and less Solvaset on the door roundels, because the ink cracked a little. Fortunately, it isn't visible from more than a foot away. I just need to do a little more work on the door decals to get them to lay down. Then it will be clear coat and put all of the subassemblies together. I think Indycals are still great for the price and selection, because he produces decals you'll almost never see from traditional screen-printing companies. You just have to work around the limitations of the printing process and adapt your techniques to the decals. I have similar experiences with airliner decals produced by Draw Decals. They require some different techniques to apply them, and the printing process also has some unique limitations, but the selection of subjects is fantastic. Beautiful Lotus, Paul! Ben
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Post by tatocorvette on Feb 23, 2021 11:23:50 GMT -8
Wow that is beautiful! And red is not in my list of favorite colors.
Thanks, Ismael
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Post by Joel_W on Feb 23, 2021 11:32:21 GMT -8
Ben, Your decaling looks great.
One thing I've "borrowed" from Paul Budzik is his decaling procedures, and they've solved just about all my decaling issues using just the usual Micro Set & Sol. He added a 3rd decaling agent: Walthers Solvaset as the final solution, and that gets almost every decal do settle down and around issues like those doors, which is what I used for my build.
I've always chickened out from actually using a hair dryer as the only one we have is my wife's and it puts out way to much heat so that there's an excellent chance of damage to the body.
One other decaling option I use for thicker decals is Mr. Marks Setter and Softener. They're even stronger then the trio I usually use.
Joel
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Post by Ben_B on Feb 23, 2021 13:08:41 GMT -8
I’m afraid to use a hair dryer too. With my luck, I’d melt something!
What I learned using Draw Decals’ airliner decals, which use a print medium that is impervious to setting solutions, is to heat a bowl of water in the microwave and then dip a q-tip in and gently press the decal down. That limits the heat to only where you want it to go and the decal will soften and conform to the surface. It cools quickly, so you don’t have to worry about not touching the decal like you do once you apply setting solution. I started doing this with conventional decals that were troublesome and it works great. I used this method quite a bit on the big fender decals for my last M6 GT3.
Ismael, I’m not a fan of red cars, either, but this car’s design was just too pretty to pass up. I guess I could have built David Piper’s green car. I think there was also a yellow one at one time.
Ben
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Post by Joel_W on Feb 23, 2021 14:14:49 GMT -8
Ben, I've been looking for a cheap coffee cup warmer to keep my decal water tray on. That way I can have a constant warm bath for the decals. I start with warm water, but I'm just to lazy to keep on running to the bathroom sink for a refill.
Joel
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Post by tatocorvette on Feb 23, 2021 14:45:07 GMT -8
In my list of "someday" I will build the Fly Yellow Ecurie Belge 330
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Post by arcticwolf on Feb 23, 2021 21:43:35 GMT -8
In my list of "someday" I will build the Fly Yellow Ecurie Belge 330 Always good to see a yellow Ferrari - kind of a tribute to Gendebien, one of the Ferrari legends.
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Post by Ben_B on Feb 24, 2021 10:47:02 GMT -8
The car does look good in yellow! All I have left is to add the brake lights, number plate lights, and the wiper. I'll do that tomorrow, to give the Gorilla Glue on the windshield and the paint on the brake lights time to dry. Ben
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Post by tatocorvette on Feb 24, 2021 10:57:19 GMT -8
Looking great! That is one of the most beautiful cars ever made!
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Post by afx on Feb 24, 2021 11:15:15 GMT -8
Ben are you using Gorilla Glue clear on the glass?
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Post by Ben_B on Feb 24, 2021 12:31:51 GMT -8
That’s the stuff! I like it because it doesn’t fog the clear parts like CA glue and it peels off if you get it somewhere you don’t want it to be. The only downside is it takes a while to set up, so you have to make sure the parts don’t move.
Ben
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Post by arcticwolf on Feb 24, 2021 12:40:49 GMT -8
Ben, I only hope mine turns out looking half as good as yours does.
As to those white rondels over red, I think I'm going to paint it white, cut some circles out of some Tamiya tape and apply them, and then paint it red. On something easier than a P4 with all its contours! All it can do is make a mess, right?
Nice work man!
Paul
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Post by arcticwolf on Feb 24, 2021 12:44:29 GMT -8
That’s the stuff! I like it because it doesn’t fog the clear parts like CA glue and it peels off if you get it somewhere you don’t want it to be. The only downside is it takes a while to set up, so you have to make sure the parts don’t move. Ben I've used it, it works. If you want a CA that won't fog clear parts, BSI Super-Gold+ works well too.
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Post by grandsport3 on Feb 24, 2021 14:01:52 GMT -8
Somewhere in a 1966 Motor Trend or like magazine there is a short article on Dean Martin's son Dean Paul who bought a Ferrari 330 P3 as a STREET car! I believe the article was called "Fly Yellow" I'll see if I can find it. A Beautiful car, the P3 is one of all time favorites. Sadly, Dean Paul Martin was killed piloting a fighter bomber and crashed into a hillside while in the Air Force.
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Post by 65slotcar on Feb 24, 2021 14:38:56 GMT -8
looks great Ben !
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