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Post by pnance26 on Feb 17, 2021 16:34:05 GMT -8
Well, here we are again. It is no big deal but we will take up here in this build log where I left off... that is, when I get to Friday and a day off. I only have Friday as Saturday is a chore around the house day, then back to work for four days.
I hope to get a few things accomplished on Friday: 1) Finish the wiring on the distributor; 2) Finish cap to oil filler tube; 3) insert and attach oil filler tube; 4) find sleeves for inner shafts of rear axle and finish axle fabrication; 5) begin process of rear axle insertion points; 6) begin process of reworking exhaust pipes (new color and annealing); 7) fabrication of seat belts for completed seat; 8) begin placing silver buttons on second seat; 9) paint hose joints for all tubing; 10) relax.
I think that is a good list. If any of you don't know this kit, I haven't even made it off page one, steps 1 and 2 yet!
I told you this would take time!
Happy motoring and thanks for looking in!
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Post by pnance26 on Feb 19, 2021 14:47:56 GMT -8
This is the bottom tub/frame with masking and the raw surface: Primered and the actual car color. Having never worked with MCW until now, I am learning... and it may be expensive. The same piece with the actual car body color... MCW isn't as easy as they make it out to be... Don't look closely at the distributor. It is done but rather messy! That is also the oil fill pipe sticking up on the left. Used some Pactra tape for the belt. Yes, I know the starter motor to the left is set too far back but we do what we can... mind you this is ALL hidden... After stripping back to raw aluminum (on the right), I applied real heat to the exhaust and got the result (on the left). I cribbed these pieces from the rear end of a 1/16th Ford GT40 that was supposed to have a motor (not included). The diameter is perfect for the rear axle inserts into the transmission. Once I get them stripped and painted and in place, I'll show you! I am still searching for an appropriate "stair steeped" rubber boot for the transaxles. Will take all suggestions. Maybe more in a bit... And the MCW will take some sanding to fix a few screwups!
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Post by 4wheels on Feb 19, 2021 15:26:34 GMT -8
For the rubber boots: How about a stack of "O"-rings of graduated sizes? Most CV boots I've seen have a more rounded profile to each step than the kit part.
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Post by martinb on Feb 19, 2021 16:12:25 GMT -8
....I am still searching for an appropriate "stair steeped" rubber boot for the transaxles. Will take all suggestions. I've had a little play with using a small bolt loaded with three different size washers with spacers as a tool, then covering in heat shrink. Looks reasonably good, but the heat shrink it now too stiff to enable me to remove the washers/bolt from inside! Briefly looking at the KA supplied shafts and pictures, I think you could do something similar without needing a tool. I reckon simply putting some heat shrink around the end of the shaft and adding one washer (to replicate the gearbox) would work well enough.
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Post by pnance26 on Feb 19, 2021 16:32:58 GMT -8
For the rubber boots: How about a stack of "O"-rings of graduated sizes? Most CV boots I've seen have a more rounded profile to each step than the kit part. Have to be some tiny o-rings... where does one obtain o-rings these days?
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Post by 4wheels on Feb 19, 2021 17:26:57 GMT -8
Well, I just go to my local hardware store, they have several huge assortments to pick thru. Actually, martinb's idea has merit! How about knocking the sharp edges off the steps of the kit part and putting some shrink tubing over it?
Brian
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Post by arcticwolf on Feb 19, 2021 17:45:27 GMT -8
For the rubber boots: How about a stack of "O"-rings of graduated sizes? Most CV boots I've seen have a more rounded profile to each step than the kit part. Have to be some tiny o-rings... where does one obtain o-rings these days? An air conditioning repairman's toolbox.
No kidding, an a/c repair kit has lots of tiny o-rings and other useful bits. Or an auto supply store might have an assorted size box. You can always use the really big ones as tires for the 1906 Hupmobile you always wanted to build.
I like the heat shrink idea myself.
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Post by martinb on Feb 19, 2021 17:47:52 GMT -8
How about knocking the sharp edges off the steps of the kit part and putting some shrink tubing over it? This is the result of simply putting heat shrink over the supplied shaft. It's actually better than I thought, with a lot more definition than I expected. Hmmm....
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Post by pnance26 on Feb 19, 2021 17:58:33 GMT -8
Well, I just go to my local hardware store, they have several huge assortments to pick thru. Actually, martinb's idea has merit! How about knocking the sharp edges off the steps of the kit part and putting some shrink tubing over it? Brian I'm not using the kit parts... I am using the KA metal parts hence the need for new "boots". They are just an added summin' summin'... if they get done, good! If not... right now I am in PE land with doing exhaust connections. As someone, maybe Jim, pointed out, those need to be installed prior to painting so they look appropriate. This is my first foray into PE that small and I need my MACRO lens to take any photos! Maybe tomorrow! I consider myself pretty to find the two parts to make a better connection into the transmission! Will show that work later...
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Post by pnance26 on Feb 19, 2021 18:00:17 GMT -8
How about knocking the sharp edges off the steps of the kit part and putting some shrink tubing over it? This is the result of simply putting heat shrink over the supplied shaft. It's actually better than I thought, with a lot more definition than I expected. Hmmm.... That's cool if you are using the kit parts... but I am using the KA shafts which had to A) be cut down by 4mm and B) need the boots. Silly KA for not supplying them! LOL!
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Post by martinb on Feb 19, 2021 18:02:36 GMT -8
This is the result of simply putting heat shrink over the supplied shaft. It's actually better than I thought, with a lot more definition than I expected. Hmmm.... That's cool if you are using the kit parts... but I am using the KA shafts which had to A) be cut down by 4mm and B) need the boots. Silly KA for not supplying them! LOL! Just an option to integrate the two sets. Like you say, the KA parts aren't correct anyway...
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Post by 4wheels on Feb 19, 2021 18:54:14 GMT -8
Yeah, just adapt the KA parts to the kit boots, best of both worlds!
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jimc7
Qualifier
Posts: 51
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Post by jimc7 on Feb 19, 2021 19:35:02 GMT -8
Looking sharp Patrick, really liking those exhaust tips! One question though, would this engine have an oil fill tube since it had an oil tank? If it did have an oil fill tube you did a nice job on it and I'm going to borrow that idea!
Get your Saturday chores done quick so you can get back to this and post more pics.
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Post by pnance26 on Feb 19, 2021 21:34:28 GMT -8
Yeah, just adapt the KA parts to the kit boots, best of both worlds! Too late to make that adaptation as there is an insert in the transmission for the kit part that would be required. And that train long ago left the station.
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Post by pnance26 on Feb 19, 2021 21:37:43 GMT -8
Looking sharp Patrick, really liking those exhaust tips! One question though, would this engine have an oil fill tube since it had an oil tank? If it did have an oil fill tube you did a nice job on it and I'm going to borrow that idea! Get your Saturday chores done quick so you can get back to this and post more pics. I didn’t think that through eh? But the oil tank is all the way in the front right? Over the spare tire? So that begs a whole new question. But that tube can always be sealed right? So much of this is just not thinking... I think little teeny exhaust connectors is making me crazy!
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