johnny
Full Time Ride
Posts: 129
|
Post by johnny on May 3, 2021 14:13:44 GMT -8
Hello Folks, I guess I should introduce myself after coming here and discovering Patrick's GT40 build log, yesterday. I'm from the UK, not old enough to remember the '66 Le Mans, but have made my way down there probably 20 times now. I find it very hard to build any kit out of the box so expect some scratch building. I am also the slowest builder on the planet, so don't expect too much going on here soon! Apart from my plan to build chassis P/1015, my general approach is very unorganised. My method usually is to get the most out of a kit without buying aftermarket parts and scratchbuilding what I need. I shall be ordering the Indycals decals, though. So far, I have just been eyeballing the bodywork and making adjustments to it as I go. I think the bodywork in the kit is far more accurate the that of the *other manufacturer, but still needs some help. Again, no real plan. I just started around the cockpit area and will continue working to the front and back until I have something I like. I had forgotten that I'd started on the steering wheel a while back. I built it and then put the box away. Quite a nice surprise to find it again. The kit wheel just wasn't doing it for me. The rim is too thick, too small a diameter and no idea why they deep dished it. I turned the rim from a block of resin on the lathe. I tend to cast resin pucks for turning when my resin looks like it going to expire. I use any cylindrical containers to hand to give me the sizes that may come in handy. The centre boss was turned from alloy stock and bolts holes drilled on my mill using a rotary table. The Allen bolt heads are just small pieces of K&S alloy tube. The spoke spider was cut by hand from 0.35mm plastic card. Hope you like it so far! Johnny
|
|
johnny
Full Time Ride
Posts: 129
|
Post by johnny on May 3, 2021 14:40:16 GMT -8
The Trumpeter roof/door line hurts my eyes whenever I see it! Hopefully, the photos are relatively self explanatory. I lay down my cut guide lines using whatever is to hand. The blue stuff is just decorators masking tape cut into thin strips. I use the tape to scribe or cut along and off we go. For this one I hacked away with a jewellers saw. Quite nice to use when the object is tricky to hold. Once happy, I cut the front corner curve. I hate using most fillers and try to use plastic as much as possible when building. By notching the corner like this I could use 2mm x 2mm square stock to fill the gap. I bent the square into a circular shape first before fitting. The advantage of doing this is the t-cut shape hold the piece in place. It also only gives you two very thin glue lines to sand over. Once I was happy with the curve I added the door seal lip with thin sheet. This was then traced onto masking tape and flipped for the other door aperture. I didn't work to a drawing for this, just lots of photo eyeballing. It was quite satisfying to be able to hinge the door and watch the corner edge sweep along that arc. In hindsight, one could measure the arc from the hinge and use that as a guide? Cheers and sorry for the picture quality! Johnny
|
|
|
Post by Joel_W on May 4, 2021 5:41:20 GMT -8
Johnny, Now that's really some impressive corrective detailing for sure.
joel
|
|
|
Post by pnance26 on May 4, 2021 7:32:28 GMT -8
Welcome to the build, Johnny!
One of the interesting things in this build are the different things each of sees. I am using Henryk of England's build as a "blueprint" for the rear wheel wells for example and he never mentions the incorrect door shapes!
Interesting... also, the fact that you are starting with body work with occurs way later in the build is interesting as well. Joel W here in our group operates much the same way as he likes the decal work. Jim in this bunch also has decaled the bottom part of the tub. I can't do that as I would somehow manage to bollocks it all up!
Hope you have fun and I look forward to your contributions!
|
|
|
Post by pnance26 on May 4, 2021 7:33:44 GMT -8
Also, your steering wheel center now resembles what you receive in the KA upgrade!
|
|
johnny
Full Time Ride
Posts: 129
|
Post by johnny on May 4, 2021 9:32:19 GMT -8
Johnny, Now that's really some impressive corrective detailing for sure. joel Many thanks Joel!
|
|
johnny
Full Time Ride
Posts: 129
|
Post by johnny on May 4, 2021 9:40:11 GMT -8
Welcome to the build, Johnny! One of the interesting things in this build are the different things each of sees. I am using Henryk of England's build as a "blueprint" for the rear wheel wells for example and he never mentions the incorrect door shapes! Interesting... also, the fact that you are starting with body work with occurs way later in the build is interesting as well. Joel W here in our group operates much the same way as he likes the decal work. Jim in this bunch also has decaled the bottom part of the tub. I can't do that as I would somehow manage to bollocks it all up! Hope you have fun and I look forward to your contributions! Cheers Patrick! I do have a thing about doing the bodywork first. I did the same thing with a 1:1 kit car! Guess I like the sculptural side of things - for me the car has to look right as a whole before I can think about mechanicals. I've seen the KA wheel...yes, they are close! I wanted their parts just for the seat eyelets. Not sure how I'm going to make mine yet. Probably something really difficult and time consuming like cutting up hundreds of bits of brass tube rather than use PE! I've seen you mention Henryk of England before. Do you have a link to his build? Is he on here? Always good to see another take on things! Just looking at taking the plunge and slicing up those lower air scoops right now. Looking at loads of reference and still can't work out where they're wrong! Johnny
|
|
|
Post by pnance26 on May 4, 2021 10:13:06 GMT -8
Johnny, Here is the link to Henryk's build www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&f=159&t=1800234&i=0Since there are exactly 118 little round circles on each seat... good luck! LOL! Not sure what you mean about the side scoops. I drilled mine out. Are you saying there is only one large scoop on each side? You will also need to drill out the scoops on the rear deck lid. After the screw-up I made on the wheel wells, I'm not sure I want to take on the doors and frames. Maybe when I get the second kit (which I am trading some other 1/12th F1 to obtain with arcticwolf), maybe I will consider it. Right now, I am in the process of deciding what to use for silver insulating material for behind the seats on the bulk head. I have a few ideas... Glad you are along!
|
|
johnny
Full Time Ride
Posts: 129
|
Post by johnny on May 4, 2021 11:36:20 GMT -8
Johnny, Here is the link to Henryk's build www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&f=159&t=1800234&i=0Since there are exactly 118 little round circles on each seat... good luck! LOL! Not sure what you mean about the side scoops. I drilled mine out. Are you saying there is only one large scoop on each side? You will also need to drill out the scoops on the rear deck lid. After the screw-up I made on the wheel wells, I'm not sure I want to take on the doors and frames. Maybe when I get the second kit (which I am trading some other 1/12th F1 to obtain with arcticwolf), maybe I will consider it. Right now, I am in the process of deciding what to use for silver insulating material for behind the seats on the bulk head. I have a few ideas... Glad you are along! Wine bottle foil! It's perfect for it! I had this same conversation with someone on another board last week! The scoop issue is it rolls in too much when it meets the front of the wheel arch.
|
|
johnny
Full Time Ride
Posts: 129
|
Post by johnny on May 4, 2021 11:56:14 GMT -8
I was previously whitterring on about the air snorkels on the rear deck being too low and hard to see on the model. This is my tweak to make them more prominent. This way you can glimpse them side on and they're not obscured by the wing tops. I just glued one onto 1.5mm plastic sheet. Then sanded the sheet into a wedge so the back of the scoop remains the original height. This make the front of the scoop slightly further off the rear screen which looks right to me. The tops should be a little flatter too. I may try to reshape them with white Milliput. Note on the right one I have tried to sand in a bit of roll on the scoop side. They appear to do this before they roll back out to the mounting flanges. Attachments:
|
|
johnny
Full Time Ride
Posts: 129
|
Post by johnny on May 5, 2021 4:22:03 GMT -8
Good morning GT40 Nutters! Still going through everyone's builds so that I don't cover things already debated or discovered! OK, in reality I'm stalling on cutting the rear clam. I thought this photo of the inside of the rear clam of P/1015 may be of interest. Patrick's going to hate me for this...the snorkel holes are only the diameter of the rubber ducting! If you look close you can see the rivet pattern of the snorkels attached on the other side. For me, more interestingly is the feed channels for the upper side scoops. Note, they curve in and enter into the space above the alloy intake cover - 'Airbox' I guess you'd call it? Replicating this will be a scratch building bundle of joy! I've noticed there's been talk about rivets in the other threads? I'm going to use mini solder balls? Do you guys know about these things? I've got 25,000 of the blighters in a very small container (0.76mm diameter.) Should keep me going forever! Johnny
|
|
|
Post by pnance26 on May 5, 2021 6:47:24 GMT -8
Johnny, Not to worry... I am purchasing (or rather trading for) another complete kit. I am NOT buying the upgrade so this new engine will be completely stock with the plastic pipes etc. What I will do is make the mods to the rear clam shell correctly this time with the help of your input. It will make life with the two rear deck snorkels easier.
Am I correct in assuming the rear deck snorkels and ducting were designed to force air to the rear brakes? Have you got a photo as to where that ducting attaches to the rear brakes if that is the case?
I will be filling the "Gurney" bump but I don't know if I am brave enough to try the door mods. Since I have two kits... hmm...
Here is why I am willing to trade two F1 kits for a single GT40 kit and some driver figures... 1) I am already into this build for a substantial amount so what's a little more; 2) This reduces the pile of 1/12th scale F1 kits by two (a Ligier JS11 and a Brabham BT44B) that I will NEVER get around to building. So it is really a win/win for me, even though it looks like I am on the short end of this one...
If anyone else reading this has some wants for some older 1/12th F1 kits, let me know! I am willing to trade!
Thanks for the info and I appreciate all that you are doing. My build is going to be such a hybrid of ideas! But that is half the fun of modeling...
So you are doing the red #3 (I think that's what it is) body? If that is the case, the #3 was the Gurney car so won't you need the Gurney bump on the right door? What paint and color are you using? Are you staying with flat black on the undersides or are you doing the chassis and framing in blue?
|
|
|
Post by Joel_W on May 5, 2021 8:39:43 GMT -8
Patrick, I was more then pleasantly surprised to see my name mentioned along with my preferred build method of body right through painting, decaling, and 1st wax. To me this is the most enjoyable part of the build as I love painting and of course decaling. But if I screw up the body I get to try again before committing to the rest of the build until the body is to my own set of standards. In my present build: the Tamiya Ford Mustang GT4, there's still a lot of body winglets, etc plus glass to install, but that's just icing on the cake.
I gotta tell you that I really admire not only your dedication to most accurate model you can build, but your willingness to redo parts over again till it's right. That's something I just seem to neglect all to often.
And Johnny, you seem like the perfect companion build to Patrick for bouncing ideas and technics back and forth. Even this old guy is learning new things all the time. I do have two Fujimi kits in my stash that will benefit from the knowledge gained from both of you.
joel
|
|
johnny
Full Time Ride
Posts: 129
|
Post by johnny on May 5, 2021 9:11:14 GMT -8
Patrick, I was more then pleasantly surprised to see my name mentioned along with my preferred build method of body right through painting, decaling, and 1st wax. To me this is the most enjoyable part of the build as I love painting and of course decaling. But if I screw up the body I get to try again before committing to the rest of the build until the body is to my own set of standards. In my present build: the Tamiya Ford Mustang GT4, there's still a lot of body winglets, etc plus glass to install, but that's just icing on the cake. I gotta tell you that I really admire not only your dedication to most accurate model you can build, but your willingness to redo parts over again till it's right. That's something I just seem to neglect all to often. And Johnny, you seem like the perfect companion build to Patrick for bouncing ideas and technics back and forth. Even this old guy is learning new things all the time. I do have two Fujimi kits in my stash that will benefit from the knowledge gained from both of you. joel Joel, I'll try to keep Patrick on his toes!
|
|
johnny
Full Time Ride
Posts: 129
|
Post by johnny on May 5, 2021 9:45:08 GMT -8
Johnny, Not to worry... I am purchasing (or rather trading for) another complete kit. I am NOT buying the upgrade so this new engine will be completely stock with the plastic pipes etc. What I will do is make the mods to the rear clam shell correctly this time with the help of your input. It will make life with the two rear deck snorkels easier. Am I correct in assuming the rear deck snorkels and ducting were designed to force air to the rear brakes? Have you got a photo as to where that ducting attaches to the rear brakes if that is the case? I will be filling the "Gurney" bump but I don't know if I am brave enough to try the door mods. Since I have two kits... hmm... Here is why I am willing to trade two F1 kits for a single GT40 kit and some driver figures... 1) I am already into this build for a substantial amount so what's a little more; 2) This reduces the pile of 1/12th scale F1 kits by two (a Ligier JS11 and a Brabham BT44B) that I will NEVER get around to building. So it is really a win/win for me, even though it looks like I am on the short end of this one... If anyone else reading this has some wants for some older 1/12th F1 kits, let me know! I am willing to trade! Thanks for the info and I appreciate all that you are doing. My build is going to be such a hybrid of ideas! But that is half the fun of modeling... So you are doing the red #3 (I think that's what it is) body? If that is the case, the #3 was the Gurney car so won't you need the Gurney bump on the right door? What paint and color are you using? Are you staying with flat black on the undersides or are you doing the chassis and framing in blue? Patrick, Best of running away from that Ligier kit ASAP! That would keep you busy forever. I'm building the Miles/Hulme no:1 car. I used a piece of plastic card to fill the depression in the door roof. Can't remember the thickness (0.75mm-ish.) Just enough to stand proud so that you can sand and blend it. I used the Gurney bump provided as guide to cut the sheet. Note that the roof does have dip/sink around some of the oval shape so I still needed a bit of filler to blend it. It's quite a large area for filler and I try to avoid it if I can. Use a good old fashioned Revell cement and the plastic sheet part should weld together onto the roof nicely. Not sure about the chassis colour at the moment. It seems to change in many photos. I'm toying with the new Tamiya lacquers (LP41 Mica blue) but I like the dullness of the blue used on the no:55 GT40 1:1 build on Pistonheads. It's duller and matter than most. Possibly a light mist of something like a matt US Navy colour to take the edge off. Tamiya do the colour, but its number escapes me now! For the Ford blue bodywork I'm going to use Zero's specific shade made for this model. Unsure about the red scallops at the moment. I've think it was matter than the overall body paint. I have a colour pic somewhere and it shows signs of dirt from servicing and looks patchy. I quite like the idea of the contrast between the two finishes. I do know it was chucked on last minute before the race, so they probably just picked up the nearest can of household paint! I think the snorkels hooked up with the Y shaped parts in the kit (B2-B3) feeding from the back. Not sure were the front feed came from? This part would connect with the vertical pipe you see in engine bay shots that had the foam seal around the lip. I guess this then headed down to the hubs. Will scout round for reference! Johnny
|
|