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Post by arcticwolf on Jul 11, 2021 7:05:35 GMT -8
When I get resin fittings I just spray them all silver as a matter of routine, regardless of how they might end up being used. Even brass looks better over silver. These fittings like you see here are part of the kit, as in molded with the attached part, in black plastic. I just painted them red and blue to see what they looked like. I'm not thrilled with it either but it's an easy fix.
Anyway, last chance to see the raw chassis before the top of the monocoque goes on:
The black tube and what I assume are vent lines didn't come with the kit, and it's on every 78 I've seen, so I made them up. Added wires to the fuel pump and battery.
They supplied the brake bias lever but omitted the lines to it. So a piece of white wire seemed a close replica.
Typical Lotus, a very elegant piece of engineering. No issues with the build so far, but now it's about to get interesting. More to follow.
cheers
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Post by arcticwolf on Jul 11, 2021 7:21:22 GMT -8
Test fits as I went along told me this might be a challenge, it just isn't quite the drop on fit you'd hope from Tamiya. I have had issues with some of their early kits in 1/20th with body fit, but I wasn't expecting this one.
This is what it looks like at the moment:
Two kinds of cement and I CA'd the front and held it down with my fingers until it set up. Wait and see if it worked but I think I got it on properly! Some touch ups might be required.
I've been keeping an informal log, I'm up to about 22 hrs so far on this project.
cheers guys I've got to help mow the lawn..........
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Post by arcticwolf on Jul 11, 2021 12:05:31 GMT -8
So, it had overnight to set up, and after unwrapping it, voila:
I think it worked.
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Post by arcticwolf on Jul 11, 2021 13:13:41 GMT -8
I'm using Indycals decals. The kit decals I have are perfect, and just plain wrong. I don't want a black and yellow Lotus, I want a black and "gold" Lotus, or bisquet to be more accurate. But I was expecting the "gold" parts on the decals, not gold on black. This is the Indycals decal sheet:
They're really nice decals, but now I have black shiny paint and black not so shiny decals. I didn't have a lot of confidence on this one. Also there's a bump in the right side of the tub for the shifter that I didn't believe I'd ever stretch a flat decal over, so I cut it out, and I had to cut out and re-locate the "Peterson + polar bear" because the hole for the red pull switch is right were "Pete" would have been, so I moved it forward. And you know how much I like pinstripes. However, 3 coats of TS13 clear and surprise, it actually matches not bad at all!
I'm ecstatic, I never would have thought it could turn out that well. I really do love Indycals even more now! The trouble with these single seaters is that from now on, I'm handling the finished product - got to protect that gloss coat and still a long way to go. Now it's on to the mechanical bits where I'm a lot happier.........
cheers Paul
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Post by Joel_W on Jul 12, 2021 5:23:15 GMT -8
Paul, Now that's outstanding progress for sure. The interior tub and detailing looks absolutely 1st rate as does your super gloss paint job. You've to one heck of a nice mile deep finish and shine to it. As for the decaling issues, well, I had the same issues and fears with my Ebbro 1/20 scale Lotus 72E. I also used Indy Cal decals but was concerned that the gold stripes were really biscuit, so I emailed Michael and he confirmed that my decals were the last of the Gold color as his new printers couldn't correctly produce Gold. Since then I'm pretty sure he's solved that issue and Gold is again used where appropriate. I had the same exact concerns about the Gold stripes being framed in Black, but another email to Michael said that he does that so that the stripe decals are easier to handle and work with, and that the does indeed blend perfectly with the Black paint once glossed and polished. joel
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Post by arcticwolf on Jul 13, 2021 4:10:46 GMT -8
Joel, my "mile deep" finish is simply Chris Hale's advice: 1 tack coat followed by 2 wet coats with about 30 minutes in between, Tamiya TS13 rattle can.
I don't polish or wax my models as they are supposed to represent the actual "as raced" cars, as opposed to modern museum pieces (personal preference).
TB Decals in Italy make the correct gold JPS decals for the 72, see my build of the 1/12th version if you're interested.
Team Lotus switched from gold to that "bisquet" colour for the 78, so Micheal's decals are very accurate for that car. The one I'm really wondering about decal colour is getting the correct gold for my Wolf kit, but that's down the road.
cheers mate
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Post by Joel_W on Jul 13, 2021 5:22:08 GMT -8
Paul, Thanks for the info, it's much appreciated. I'm a air brush kind of guy, and I do use a tack coat for primer, color, and gloss coats, but I also rush the following coats which seems to be a mistake on my part as they will dissolve to some extent the previous coats if applied to soon. 2-3 min has been my norm. Going to try to give it a solid 10 min and see if that helps.
My next Ebbro 72E will be when I build every Ebbro and Tamiya F1 kit as I'm back to slowly collecting them when I find them at a decent price. I've always been of the opinion that every kit from nearly all manufactures gets reissued sooner or later so there's always hope that I can get all the kits that I was just to lazy to buy when they were available.
Joel
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Post by pnance26 on Jul 13, 2021 11:30:48 GMT -8
Paul, Thanks for the info, it's much appreciated. I'm a air brush kind of guy, and I do use a tack coat for primer, color, and gloss coats, but I also rush the following coats which seems to be a mistake on my part as they will dissolve to some extent the previous coats if applied to soon. 2-3 min has been my norm. Going to try to give it a solid 10 min and see if that helps. My next Ebbro 72E will be when I build every Ebbro and Tamiya F1 kit as I'm back to slowly collecting them when I find them at a decent price. I've always been of the opinion that every kit from nearly all manufactures gets reissued sooner or later so there's always hope that I can get all the kits that I was just to lazy to buy when they were available. Joel So what are you looking for in F1 kits? What scale? I have some that I really want to be rid of... I have a couple of McLaren M23s (Yardley and Texaco) and a Tyrrell P34 with the PE that still in the shrink wrap!
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Post by Joel_W on Jul 13, 2021 11:36:38 GMT -8
Patrick, Open wheel/F1 kits are all 1/20 scale. I'm assuming yours are 1/12 scale? joel
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Post by arcticwolf on Jul 13, 2021 11:47:22 GMT -8
Patrick, Open wheel/F1 kits are all 1/20 scale. I'm assuming yours are 1/12 scale? joel Joel, I have a Ferrari F2001 and a Wolf, borh Tamiya 1/20th that I'd part with, both brand new and still bagged. I also have some Marlboro fill in decals for the Ferrari.
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Post by pnance26 on Jul 13, 2021 16:22:00 GMT -8
Patrick, Open wheel/F1 kits are all 1/20 scale. I'm assuming yours are 1/12 scale? joel Yup... I have one or two 1/20th kits. I think I have a Lotus 99T and a Brabham maybe...
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Post by arcticwolf on Jul 23, 2021 18:46:25 GMT -8
Some progress. It was nice to build a Tamiya exhaust system after the Heller ordeal. The right side has been painted
I got it more or less completed enough that I might as well weld the lump to the chassis. I like Lotus cars but I really could do without their weird suspension systems:
One thing missing from the kit were the flexible brake ducts. I guess I'll have to invent something. Other than that, this is a nice kit to work on.
Later guys.
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Post by Chris K. Hale on Jul 24, 2021 4:24:47 GMT -8
I dont know the diameter of the brake hoses but try the flex part of flexible straws or post the diameter and I will see if I have anything. as a last result contact TamiyaUSA.com and see if their parts dept has some. Tell them they were not in the box, normally they will send them right out if they have some n/c of course. Chris
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Post by Joel_W on Jul 24, 2021 6:48:45 GMT -8
Paul, The exhaust headers came out looking as used but not abused ones should indeed look.
joel
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Post by arcticwolf on Jul 24, 2021 9:17:21 GMT -8
I dont know the diameter of the brake hoses but try the flex part of flexible straws or post the diameter and I will see if I have anything. as a last result contact TamiyaUSA.com and see if their parts dept has some. Tell them they were not in the box, normally they will send them right out if they have some n/c of course. Chris The "duct" is actually a very tightly wound coil spring, which I just found. It was inside one of the rear tires!
Who knew?? But thanks Chris.
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