Proper primer for Zero paint

[Deleted]

Hello
When I finally get around to primer I need to use one for lacquer. This will be my first paint job done with lacquer so to say I am a novice is an understatement. Anybody here showing their work always have amazingly smooth, crisp, precise primer cover. What I need to know is this....what do you guys use? I used to use Krylon but I backed off that it seemed it crazed the plastic a bit. Any information would be greatly appreciated. I will be using Zero brand paints. Thanks.

[Chris K. Hale]

I have Zero experience with Zero paints, pun intended, but for all my projects I use Duplicolor spot filler primer, in white and gray as abase , if I have been doing any body work, cuts down on sanding marks... If not I use Tamiya fine white primer. There are many occasions when I use No primer, usually when painting color that is similar to the plastic color or depending not... just a thorough wet sand with 8,000 grit. and then start the color coats, I found it will etch the surface enough to remain smooth and allow the paint to adhere without burying the details. These cars had no primer, Dark Blue over gray plasticRed over Red plasticmultiple colors over white plastic.. I know I am confusing you but its just something I figured out over the years.. Chris

[tatocorvette]

My favorite primer (and the only one I use) is Plastikote T235 in a spray can. It is the gray one. It is also available in black, white and oxide red. Not sure but I think those are T236, T237 and T238 respectively. This primer will not attack plastic and can be used with lacquers, enamels, acrylics or anything else. The secret is to wet sand the primer until it is very smooth. Only when the primer looks so good that I can almost get away without paint, then I'm ready for paint.

Thanks,
Ismael

[Deleted]

I am in full agreement with you on the wet sanding Ismael. I have pretty much always used enamels and like I had mentioned I have never attempted Lacquer finish before. The Zero paints are basically flat finish with their clear adding the ummpphh. I picked up a lot of the info thanks to the Guys at SPOT MODEL. Good group and very helpful. 2 hard and fast things I NEVER did before 1. use Lacquer 2. clear coat. I preferred enamel I suppose because I was used to its properties for no other reason than that was the paint I started with. I would patiently wait the 3 week gas out period before polishing. I would never have thought of clear coating decal work. I am a firm believer in wet polishing withe the extended polishing mediums 1600 - 12,000. There was one time i did not wet sand, the 1937 Ford hot rod. It was a combination of Pactra model enamels and Testors Model Master to achieve the color match of the original AND something I tried on a whim and a tip from an old school Hot Rod modeler, mix the clear coat with your pigment mix. I was actually able to DRY polish that model.

[Deleted]

3 more photos of the dry polish job. These were the shades he, the owner of the 1:1 used on his 37 heaven. I must admit the engine shade did nothing for me. He told me he painted it that color because he had leftover paint from another project....go figure huh? HEY how did that crooked radio antenna get in there!!

[Deleted]

Dear Ismael,

During the brief amount of time I have come to know you and your outstanding builds and amazing paint work one question kept popping up in my head " how does this fellow do this?" The other day you recommended a particular primer, Plasticoat T-235, ONE that shoulda raised a red flag from the "old days. Back when I used to show models with a guy, Steve "Zip" Zimmerman, the "wheel guy" from what I understand now. He used to do very nice "master" bodies, lots of pro mod kinda stuff. Any how I am wandering off point and that being I used to TRY and find that primer back then "early 90's" with no luck. I did the same thing yesterday, same result NO LUCK.You would think in a town approx 28-30,000 Somebody would carry it.  Nope every single chain auto store carries a Rust Oleum branded type. Then comes good ole amazon, I just have to wait a bit that's all. Anyhow:

Thank You for the sound advice, 
Bill Brown
Anyhow It's time to actually lay down some primer on this and see where I am in terms of what kind of body work yet remains on this. I never gave the CRUZE  much of a thought, they were manufactured about 25 miles from here. But the more I am getting on with this model the more I appreciate the original styled body. Just enough of a Euro thing, and some of the original bodied ones I have noticed, look a little nasty. Cool Stuff, I don't get out enough I guess.