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Post by arcticwolf on Aug 14, 2019 15:31:28 GMT -8
Everything I have built is 1/20th. I have a Honda, a Lotus 49, and a McLaren M23 in 1/12th unbuilt in their boxes, and a Wolf somewhere in transit. And I have more than blown my budget!!!
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Post by vintagerpm on Aug 15, 2019 4:42:41 GMT -8
I digress. Paint. The mica red is not a metallic, its solid red. It looks metallic-like in the photo because I used TS65 Gloss Pearl as a clearcote just for an experiment. Nice for a hot rod but not really correct for a race car. If you can find TS85, buy a can and try it, you might like the look. My 312T3 is done with it, I'll post some pics once the idiot in the paint shop is done with the wings. A little searching on-line seems to indicate that the mica paints are pearlescent. Mike
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Post by arcticwolf on Aug 15, 2019 23:51:15 GMT -8
TS85 Bright Mica Red, no clear coat.
Sorry but I don't see any metallic or pearl in it - just a solid red.
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Post by vintagerpm on Aug 16, 2019 13:51:03 GMT -8
Build (not mine) using Tamiya Mica Red and clear. Definitey not solid red. Web page photo is taken from: scaledworld.net/aoshima-nissan-gtr-libertywalk-2017On close inspection, I can actually see some of the same shimmer in your photo, although the red itself looks different. Mike
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Post by vintagerpm on Aug 16, 2019 13:56:23 GMT -8
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Post by arcticwolf on Aug 16, 2019 15:06:04 GMT -8
Build (not mine) using Tamiya Mica Red and clear. Definitey not solid red. Web page photo is taken from: scaledworld.net/aoshima-nissan-gtr-libertywalk-2017On close inspection, I can actually see some of the same shimmer in your photo, although the red itself looks different. Mike Mike, the photo you posted is in TS39, not my TS85 that I use. Mine definately has no metallic in it, and no real pearl that I can see anyway.
cheers
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Post by pnance26 on Aug 16, 2019 19:29:12 GMT -8
Well, I will probably stick with TS-8 but am going to do the spoon test. Dollar Tree has red plastic ware for a dollar (who knew) and I have pink primer coming so it will be test city. I think I have an Imagur account. Will that work here?
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Post by pnance26 on Aug 16, 2019 19:48:26 GMT -8
Here's my 1/12th 641 painted with TS-8 and I like the color. This is where I am leaning...
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Post by pnance26 on Aug 17, 2019 13:16:10 GMT -8
My current T4 is beyond crap with the side pods and the top, so I ordered some IndyCals and I also bought a partially assemble T4 off ebay (which I seldom do). The kit was only $45 but the shipping was $45 so it cost me $90 for a partially assemble kit.
The kit arrived and it appears it all there, however, the previous builder chose to not paint the engine block or the main tub. I am not sure I can disassemble those parts and since all but the bottom of the tub can be seen, I may paint it and call it good. Also, I need to disassemble the rear end transmission and suspension as the vent ducts for the rear wheels really look like crap.
Here is what is more likely to happen... I will use my tub and chassis and the new side pods, top, front and rear wings and set aside the old parts for another day. That will get me onto the next in the 312 series starting with the 312B.
Thanks for following!
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Post by Joel_W on Aug 18, 2019 7:46:20 GMT -8
pnance26, The yellowing clear decal film was a real issue back in the 1970s when I 1st got back into plastic modeling via the Squadron Shop, so it was all military aircraft for me. Learned the hard way a few valuable lessons. 1st and foremost is never, ever have direct sunlight shine on your models, they will yellow and the inks will fade. Just look at any model boxes left in a Hobby Shop window over a period of time. Also, not sealing your decals make the yellowing process happen at a quicker pace. I have models that I've build many years ago and displayed in clear plastic bins on shelves without a trace of yellowing. All the decals were sealed with Testors Glosscoat, then Dullcoat. The shelving unit is completely out of the path of direct window light. I have friends whose same models have horribly yellowed decals because they didn't follow both rules.
As for Indy Cal decals, I've had no issues with them, and I've been using his decals when they were printed on a Alps printer. He's up graded to a better pair of printers that cost in the thousands, and those decals haven't shown any signs of yellowing using my above method, but I no longer use Gloss or Dullcoat.
As for the Ferrari Red paint color issues, I've yet to ever build a Ferrari, I'm a devotee of Gravity and Zero paints. Especially Gravity has more variations of Ferrari Red then I thought possible. Just contact them about the proper color for a particular car, and they'll tell you the correct paint to use. As for primer, they both offer very light gray primers which are supposed to be neutral in tone. Honestly for bright colors including white, I use Tamiya White primer.
Just checkout the Gravity of Spain site, not the Florida site, and see what they have to offer.
Joel
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