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Post by mickgee on May 3, 2020 14:59:35 GMT -8
These cars are fascinating and original.
Here the available photos from which I've somehow made plans for a start. So many details left open, decided is the wheelbase and the tube construction setup.
Heck, who needs more?
For sure a thick tube chassis, I'm guessing since no roll cage, major tubes being 2". Single roll bar 3.5". Beefy. Clearly visible in the photos.
I have the motor already. Wheels and tires too.
The rest....I'll make.
Brass tube chassis, aluminum chain guard housings, 392 Hemi, metal exhaust pipes, front suspension all metal. Body will be brass sheet, hand bent. I'd like to paint the car nicely but considering the era, will be simple and clean. Just inside the cowl parts, a nice shiny brass finish would be nice. The extent to which the body tilts or be raised to view will be determined later on down the road.
The chain (edit), GEAR drive, both sides is really an interesting modeling aspect. I've found some watchmakers gears that would be great. I'll have to find out about scale motorcycle model chains for the rest. I do believe my downtown hobby shop opens tomorrow, those boys do mostly RC cars that rock!
Here the gear...I'm liking this already;
The parts for this project have already been sorted out. Some new 3D printed motors and parts are on the way, brass and fittings too.
I have a good feeling with this one, real good. I think to be able to pull off a decent rarity in our modeling world.
Mike..
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Post by tatocorvette on May 3, 2020 15:39:54 GMT -8
Chain drive! Wow! That is interesting! Never seen that before in a race car. I mean, apart from the early days long before WWII. This will be awesome!
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Post by mickgee on May 3, 2020 22:02:03 GMT -8
Hi Ismael, I made a mistake.
This car has a gear drive.
Another car from this era does have a chain drive though. Interesting too, the blower is chain driven, looks fantastic on a car!
To confuse things further, here a photo of a belt driven car, probably having some kind of cog to grip the big gear out back. I think I found one of these in a correct size;
Now I'm hoping to have finally realized the difference, better not hold your breath though.
Mike..
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Post by mickgee on May 4, 2020 1:41:40 GMT -8
Parts update:
I just returned from the trusted hobby shop downtown, they opened up last week.
Sure enough, the fellow has gears, lots of them.
I needed 16mm x 2mm. Got 16.6mm x 3mm, being the size of the rear wheel. Also the smaller drive gear, either attached directly to the crank and clutch can on the other end. Possibly a small chain or belt to feed the smaller gear, not worried about this now, no problem.
These gears can be reduced to 2mm width, and also drilled out to make for a more modeled look. I like. The larger gear goes directly onto the rear axle.
Major problem #2 is solved now.
Mike..
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Post by mustang1989 on May 7, 2020 3:26:33 GMT -8
Looks like you're off to a great start Mike!!
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Post by Joel_W on May 7, 2020 10:53:52 GMT -8
should really be one very interesting build. About the only chain drives I do remember were on my enduro Kart back in the 70s.
Joel
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Post by arcticwolf on May 7, 2020 18:45:43 GMT -8
should really be one very interesting build. About the only chain drives I do remember were on my enduro Kart back in the 70s. Joel Everything I raced had a chain drive.
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Post by Chris K. Hale on May 8, 2020 6:01:12 GMT -8
Very Interesting Mike, I am in a way appreciative that you chose a different, although very similar Sidewinder to build, great photos too! I noted the Buick finned Drum brakes inside the wheel too, very cool and easy to replicate. Thing about this build is the ideas of what can be accomplished in scale, just keep poppin' its like 8 cups of coffee every time I look at the photos! I was looking at the Brass Shim stock I have and the big chunks of balsa sitting the shop thinking haw much fun it would be to make a Buck and form the brass over it for the body... well keep it coming I am really enjoying this one.. Chris
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Post by mickgee on May 8, 2020 20:39:17 GMT -8
Thanks Chris. I didn't feel comfortable with the "Magwinder", as too many unknowns yet to figure out, and I'd hate to make false decisions on something obviously so dear to you.
Of the other cars with similarities, I've chosen this one. Seems like a solid car and it looks good too, of course not as sleek a body, but a clean design. this is great for starters.
What else I've found out, the clean black chassis car shown above, was never finished! I love the photos, but this would be a great one to finish....with a body the way I'd like it. More later on this.
For now, The "S & M Speed Shop" car is the deal. I have a 392 Hemi mocked up, the gears fit, pie crust slicks and laced wire wheels up front. Either old Halibrands or 5 spoke wheels out back.
I have a plan drawn up, and will start the brass chassis today. No holding back now, the drivetrain is sorted and ready to go.
Here the car;
This one will be a great learning platform for future sidewinders.
Mike..
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Post by afx on May 9, 2020 4:00:54 GMT -8
Interesting car, looking forward to your project Mike.
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Post by Chris K. Hale on May 9, 2020 11:07:39 GMT -8
Interesting car with the Straight axle front end, looks like the engine is set further forward than the Magwinder , the huge fuel pressure regulator coming below the tank is different too. I wouldnt have been offended if you copied the Magwinder, just sent me a check to cover copyrights...LOL! Well I am always here if you have questions or need help.. chris
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Post by tatocorvette on May 9, 2020 11:17:44 GMT -8
I'm curious: What kind of transmission were used in these?
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Post by Chris K. Hale on May 9, 2020 12:19:37 GMT -8
None, just a Clutch , clutch in no move drop the pedal and your Hooked up....Believed to be primitive until Modern cars adapted a Hi-gear only system where you drop the clutch and off Ya Go!!! Seriously, there would have been no room for any gear box ! Chris
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Post by mickgee on May 10, 2020 8:13:32 GMT -8
"No room"....I hear that!
The chassis is soldered up, looking good so far.
The mocked up 392 sits nicely between the rails, the gear at the clutch can sits nicely just outside the rail, and the tire/wheel with the larger gear hook up too.
Now I'm with the right side, making a motor plate that can be attached to the chassis. The blower belt will run just outside the rails.
The chassis has a 3" height above pavement. I might need a taller slick though.
The motor mounts are proving to be difficult, don't know yet exactly how to do this. Photos soon.
Mike..
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Post by mickgee on May 11, 2020 13:08:58 GMT -8
UPDATE: 1st build photos.
Chassis building went quick, but still too many unknowns. Ride height, track, chassis width...all of these factors were just guessing.
Here the first attempt with the side rails, the plan was made from photos;
Two side rails, looking good;
Firewall and front torsion bar housing;
Here the right side motor plate attached to the chassis. The blower pulleys and belt will be outside the chassis rails. The motor plate also cradles the straight rear axle housing tube....no pinion 3rd member here with this setup;
Here the 392 Hemi mockup. This motor is a decent scale, from the AMT "Double Dragster" Kit, the one with the Fiat included..vintage 1963. But the scale is remarkably correct, and since not much of the block will be seen, I'm going with this one. Most important for scale, is the width of the motor, and this one is spot on! Also correct, the 2 port injection. A rear motor plate was needed for the further construction, as the motor has to have a resting point that remains throughout the build, a constant factor is a must when scratch building. Also, the rear axle tube rests nicely along this line, and under the headers! The right side exit point for the tube housing is the front motor plate, right side.
Here left side with the driveshaft gear, and motor plate with a simple clutch can;
Right side, the motor plate, also the rear axle tube housing,
Here the present status, left side, being the drive side with gears and tire/wheel mockup;
Vintage Halibrand wheels cast in nickel, but with mid 60's slicks. Not pie crust tires....I have some but they just don't look right....too small.
The biggest problem now, and I don't know what to do....? Problem is the 2 port injection does not sit centered in relation to the chassis length, and the back of the seat! How was this done?
I am clueless.
Narrowing the chassis..again! Just sucks. May be the only remedy. The chassis was already de-soldered to get the top rails lower.
Other cars, like the "Magwinder", have the injection in relation to the centerline exactly as with this car now, being more to the right side....what to do?
Even a narrower chassis will not solve the issue of getting the 2 port injection centerline.
Mike..
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