|
Post by tatocorvette on Apr 13, 2021 7:24:07 GMT -8
Apoxie is my go to putty now. For years I used fine Milliput which works great, but shelf life was an issue.
Thanks, Ismael
|
|
|
Post by Joel_W on Apr 14, 2021 5:47:10 GMT -8
Ismael, Same here as every time I went to use milliput it was hard as rocks. But I still use Tamiya regular putty for small, shallow jobs.
joel
|
|
|
Post by Ben_B on Apr 14, 2021 12:20:40 GMT -8
I hear Apoxie Clay is even easier to work with than Sculpt. I’m going to try some when my supply of Sculpt finally runs out.
Ben
|
|
|
Post by Joel_W on Apr 15, 2021 7:52:59 GMT -8
Ben, I've never heard of the Clay before. Looking forward to when you post your test results.
joel
|
|
|
Post by pnance26 on Apr 15, 2021 15:46:32 GMT -8
Does Tamiya Extra Thin work to fill small seams?
|
|
|
Post by Ben_B on Apr 16, 2021 1:55:59 GMT -8
Tamiya putty? I use their white putty for small jobs. It tends to shrink like other solvent-based putties, but is still pretty good.
I tried Perfect Plastic Putty on an old kit that I was throwing together for fun over the holidays. It works well for small seams, but an interesting issued cropped up after I applied the decals. Some white substance bubbled up through the paint, as if the putty had reacted with something and expanded. I experimented to see if it was caused by decal setting solutions, water, or the Mr Color paint, but I never could duplicate it. It's easy to fix on a model like a flat-painted military airplane, but I don't think I'd risk using it on a glossy car model.
BTW, Tamiya Airbrush Cleaner is almost exactly the same as Tamiya Extra Thin Cement, but for a fraction of the price. On the MSDS for each, there is something like a 5% difference in the amount for one of the ingredients. You get about 6 times as much product (250 mL vs 40 mL) for 4x the price (~$20 vs ~$5).
Ben
|
|
|
Post by Joel_W on Apr 16, 2021 10:05:45 GMT -8
Patrick, Extra thin is a fast melting/setting liquid glue. You can squeeze a small seam or opening till they close then brush on a Extra Thin but to much will cause the plastic to bubble creating another issue to be dealt with. My go to for small seams is Tamiya putty.
Ben, This is the 1st that I've heard of Extra thin being basically the same thing as their Airbrush cleaner. I just can't see myself cleaning out one of my air brushes with Extra Thin.
joel
|
|
|
Post by Ben_B on Apr 16, 2021 12:49:54 GMT -8
There was an interesting thread about the cleaner vs cement on another forum I go to. I ran out and bought some of the cleaner and it performs just as well as the cement.
Ben
|
|
|
Post by Joel_W on Apr 16, 2021 14:02:37 GMT -8
Ben, That's amazing. Who would have thought that both are basically the same, yet cost per ounce is like night and day. Gotta go google it and see what pops up.
joel
|
|
|
Post by pnance26 on Apr 16, 2021 17:04:44 GMT -8
There was an interesting thread about the cleaner vs cement on another forum I go to. I ran out and bought some of the cleaner and it performs just as well as the cement. Ben Well isn't that interesting... might have to try it since I have airbrush cleaner sitting right there on my workspace (I refuse to call it a "bench").
|
|
|
Post by Ben_B on Apr 17, 2021 1:48:13 GMT -8
I'll put this link in the Tools & Tips section for a wider audience:
Ben
|
|
|
Post by Joel_W on Apr 17, 2021 6:06:28 GMT -8
Ben, I'm convinced enough to try it. For cleaning my air brushes I use big box store lacquer thinner for anything type of paint except true water based acrylics as I don't air brush them. Well, not at yet.
joel
|
|
|
Post by Ben_B on Apr 21, 2021 10:26:10 GMT -8
The Ford is going behind the pit wall for a while. No pics, but here's what happened:
Rather than fight with the primers attacking the Mr Surfacer I used to fill the scar where I'd slipped with the razor saw (it's a good thing I don't do brain surgery!), I sanded the roof all the way back to the bare plastic, removed the Mr Surfacer with alcohol, and then filled the scar with super glue and sanded everything smooth. Easy job, done it dozens of times. I then sprayed the body with Gravity Colors primer, and it immediately showed the super glued scar perfectly! I've never had problems with paint allowing super glue to show through. I removed the Gravity primer with alcohol and shot the area with Tamiya primer, just to see what would happen. Same thing with that and some Alclad Aluminum, too. So, the body is going to sit in a tub of Purple Cleaner for a while.
On a positive note, I applied the Decalcas decals to the tires, and they went down very well. They're noticeably thicker than most decals I've used, but they conformed to the tires without any fuss. There are a couple of extra decals on the sheet and I'm going to experiment with them to see how the decals react to heat and Solvaset. The instructions specifically say don't use heat or setting solutions, so of course I want to know what will happen if I do!
Moving on to the Nunu Audi.
Ben
|
|
|
Post by tatocorvette on Apr 21, 2021 12:20:58 GMT -8
Interesting. I've had good results with Apoxie as scar filler or Bondo spot glazing putty. But it seems the primer could be the issue.
|
|
|
Post by Ben_B on Apr 22, 2021 1:19:58 GMT -8
I'm going to see how it works with Apoxie, next. The solvents in the primer and paint probably reacted with the Mr Surfacer, but I can't come up with an explanation for why there were issues with super glue. Never had that happen before with any kind of paint. For now, I'm going to move on to another several kits I want to build. Time is short and I've been having trouble warming up to this kit from the start.
Ben
|
|