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Post by arcticwolf on Aug 17, 2019 8:26:19 GMT -8
What did you use to strip the chrome? I'm thinking I like it much better with the aluminum look. Nail polish remover, and a lot of rubbing. I'm sure there's a better way, lol.
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Post by arcticwolf on Aug 17, 2019 16:42:46 GMT -8
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Post by sam on Aug 17, 2019 18:57:29 GMT -8
What did you use to strip the chrome? I'm thinking I like it much better with the aluminum look. Drop your chrome pieces in a container of bleach. You can usually watch it disintegrating.
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Post by sam on Aug 17, 2019 18:58:09 GMT -8
Beautiful build...
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Post by Joel_W on Aug 18, 2019 8:13:15 GMT -8
articwolf, Just an absolutely beautiful build and finish of the Tamiya kit. Just the fact that you got those decals to lay down on the air intake is mighty impressive.
From your earlier pre-decal pictures, you mentioned that you were laying down a coat of gloss. You really don't have to do that. As long as the paint surface is smooth, you can decal as you always do right over it with no flash or silvering issues. Paul Budzik has been decaling this way with military Matt paints and no issues. And we're talking an IPMS National winner since the 1980s. I adapted his decaling procedures, and all my little nagging issues just vanished. Naturally, you still have to clear gloss coat.
Your gloss finish is amazing. what Clear gloss and procedures did you use to achieve that finish?
Joel
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Post by arcticwolf on Aug 18, 2019 11:55:06 GMT -8
First off, thank you Joel, and Sam, I really appreciate the comments. People here recommended Solvaset, but nobody up here sells it. What I got is a line of "Micro" products. You put MicroSet on the paint, then slide the decal into position. The Microset makes it slide easier and softens it a little. If the surface is a compound curve or just plain wierd, apply MicoSol on top of the decal. Do NOT try to move the decal again. The MicroSol melts the decal to the surface. Then after its dry just wipe carefully with water. Now, I went through the Tamiya sheet and 2 sets of Indycals before I got what you see, but with practice the products really do the job. Just have to learn how and not be in a hurry. For the record I hate pinstripes, lol. The clearcote just like Chris suggested, 2 light mists of TS13 and then a flood coat. No buffing. Sometimes you get lucky.
cheers guys
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Post by pnance26 on Aug 22, 2019 5:43:40 GMT -8
First off, thank you Joel, and Sam, I really appreciate the comments. People here recommended Solvaset, but nobody up here sells it. What I got is a line of "Micro" products. You put MicroSet on the paint, then slide the decal into position. The Microset makes it slide easier and softens it a little. If the surface is a compound curve or just plain wierd, apply MicoSol on top of the decal. Do NOT try to move the decal again. The MicroSol melts the decal to the surface. Then after its dry just wipe carefully with water. Now, I went through the Tamiya sheet and 2 sets of Indycals before I got what you see, but with practice the products really do the job. Just have to learn how and not be in a hurry. For the record I hate pinstripes, lol. The clearcote just like Chris suggested, 2 light mists of TS13 and then a flood coat. No buffing. Sometimes you get lucky.
cheers guys
Did you paint all the white areas including the side pods and nose? Or did you use IndyCals? I am considering not using white decals any longer as it is more fun to paint, and sand, and paint, and sand, and paint... LOL!
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Post by Joel_W on Aug 22, 2019 5:52:34 GMT -8
Articwolf, I use the Microscale system for the 1st two steps in my decaling system that I got basically from Paul Budzik, then Solvaset as the final step. It really sucks those decals down into every nook and cranny.
Can you order from Sprue Brothers or ScaleHobbyist.com in the states? I order from both Gravity and Spot Models in Spain without any postal issues.
Joel
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Post by arcticwolf on Aug 22, 2019 7:59:33 GMT -8
First off, thank you Joel, and Sam, I really appreciate the comments. People here recommended Solvaset, but nobody up here sells it. What I got is a line of "Micro" products. You put MicroSet on the paint, then slide the decal into position. The Microset makes it slide easier and softens it a little. If the surface is a compound curve or just plain wierd, apply MicoSol on top of the decal. Do NOT try to move the decal again. The MicroSol melts the decal to the surface. Then after its dry just wipe carefully with water. Now, I went through the Tamiya sheet and 2 sets of Indycals before I got what you see, but with practice the products really do the job. Just have to learn how and not be in a hurry. For the record I hate pinstripes, lol. The clearcote just like Chris suggested, 2 light mists of TS13 and then a flood coat. No buffing. Sometimes you get lucky.
cheers guys
Did you paint all the white areas including the side pods and nose? Or did you use IndyCals? I am considering not using white decals any longer as it is more fun to paint, and sand, and paint, and sand, and paint... LOL! The answer is yes, and yes. I painted the white on the car - I always paint wherever possible. And they are Indycals decals. For this car, Indycals very cleverly offered the decals as pinstripes only without the white if you preferred. Although I went through 2 sets of them, I recommend it!. The original Tamiya decals I cut out and used as a template to cut a mask for spraying the white. In the end, the decals cost more than the actual model, but what else is new.
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Post by arcticwolf on Aug 22, 2019 8:08:34 GMT -8
Articwolf, I use the Microscale system for the 1st two steps in my decaling system that I got basically from Paul Budzik, then Solvaset as the final step. It really sucks those decals down into every nook and cranny. Can you order from Sprue Brothers or ScaleHobbyist.com in the states? I order from both Gravity and Spot Models in Spain without any postal issues. Joel I probably could, but this "micro" range of products seem to be the equivalent. They work well, once you figure out how to use them. They also make a decal restore and a "micro krystal klear" thats both an adhesive and a liquid glass, you could make your own windshield with it if you were good enough. And I can walk in and buy them locally - well sort of, its an hour's drive, but then so is everything. I imagine if I went to Toronto I could find the Solvaset but who wants that hassle, lol.
cheers mate
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Post by Joel_W on Aug 22, 2019 12:16:10 GMT -8
Arcticwolf, The Microsale Sol & Set which are my 1st two solutions are the Microscale one's that you're already using. the Solvaset is a stronger Setting solution to make the decals super soft and conform to just about any shape. I actually have Mr. Mark Setter and Mr. Mark Softener that are distributed by Mr. Hobby/Mr. Color which I use only for Asian decals like the older Tamiya, and Hasegawa decals that are really thick. I've used them exactly once as 9 out of 10 decal sheets I use are After Market, but even some of those are from Asia and are surprisingly on the thick side. I've used Krystal Kleer since the early 1970s to make small windows for 1/72 aircraft. These days I rarely use it, but I've still got it.
the trick is to use what works for you for any given decaling situation. What works for me might not work for you.
As for Indy Cal decals, Michael seems to be expanding the number of decal sheets with either color backings or without it if we prefer to paint. Like you, I've always gone for paint option.
Joel
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Post by arcticwolf on Aug 22, 2019 16:16:34 GMT -8
Arcticwolf, The Microsale Sol & Set which are my 1st two solutions are the Microscale one's that you're already using. the Solvaset is a stronger Setting solution to make the decals super soft and conform to just about any shape. I actually have Mr. Mark Setter and Mr. Mark Softener that are distributed by Mr. Hobby/Mr. Color which I use only for Asian decals like the older Tamiya, and Hasegawa decals that are really thick. I've used them exactly once as 9 out of 10 decal sheets I use are After Market, but even some of those are from Asia and are surprisingly on the thick side. I've used Krystal Kleer since the early 1970s to make small windows for 1/72 aircraft. These days I rarely use it, but I've still got it. the trick is to use what works for you for any given decaling situation. What works for me might not work for you. As for Indy Cal decals, Michael seems to be expanding the number of decal sheets with either color backings or without it if we prefer to paint. Like you, I've always gone for paint option. Joel I should have realized you would know what the stuff was. As for Indycals, I've tried them a few times now and They're well worth a few extra bucks to get things right - and easier. I've found that any decal with white, the background colour shows through so what Micheal is doing is a great help. I don't mind painting it, although I might add that painting full size cars is a lot easier.
Cherers and wish me luck
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Post by pnance26 on Sept 2, 2019 19:24:06 GMT -8
Arcticwolf, The Microsale Sol & Set which are my 1st two solutions are the Microscale one's that you're already using. the Solvaset is a stronger Setting solution to make the decals super soft and conform to just about any shape. I actually have Mr. Mark Setter and Mr. Mark Softener that are distributed by Mr. Hobby/Mr. Color which I use only for Asian decals like the older Tamiya, and Hasegawa decals that are really thick. I've used them exactly once as 9 out of 10 decal sheets I use are After Market, but even some of those are from Asia and are surprisingly on the thick side. I've used Krystal Kleer since the early 1970s to make small windows for 1/72 aircraft. These days I rarely use it, but I've still got it. the trick is to use what works for you for any given decaling situation. What works for me might not work for you. As for Indy Cal decals, Michael seems to be expanding the number of decal sheets with either color backings or without it if we prefer to paint. Like you, I've always gone for paint option. Joel I should have realized you would know what the stuff was. As for Indycals, I've tried them a few times now and They're well worth a few extra bucks to get things right - and easier. I've found that any decal with white, the background colour shows through so what Micheal is doing is a great help. I don't mind painting it, although I might add that painting full size cars is a lot easier.
Cherers and wish me l
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Post by pnance26 on Sept 2, 2019 19:28:28 GMT -8
Hey Paul, That is a great build. And I am a fan of white paint as well. What do you use for masking? I tried plain old masking tape and also Tamiya lining tape. The Tamiya leaves an incredible amount of residue. It takes time but you can use a good old rubber eraser which actually is like using the finest superfine polishing cloth. I think I will have to purchase a second set of decals for my T4 as you can see how much bleed there is in the attached photo. Michael does say the white in number shield for his T2 will mask the red underneath and if it doesn't, he will make a second set for free. I would pay for them no problem. What's next for you?
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Post by Joel_W on Sept 3, 2019 6:03:06 GMT -8
pnance26,
I've never had any issues with Tamiya masking tape. when I mask over painted surfaces including clearcoats over decals I detack the tape 1st on the back of my usually greasy hand. But I do make sure that I burnish it down after it's applied.
That's some bleed through the white decals. I sure hope that the 2nd decal will completely cover it.
Joel
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