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Post by arcticwolf on Mar 7, 2020 19:35:46 GMT -8
Adrian, Indycals prints on a continuous clear decal film, so you do have to trim around each one. I don’t know what printing process Michael uses, but treat them like you would ALPS-printed decals. The ink doesn’t seem to be very susceptible to setting solutions, but I haven’t managed to damage them with Solvaset (yet!). Are Slixx and Powerslide silkscreen printed? I’ve heard of both but have never used them. Ben Hi Ben
I use Indycals a lot, never had problems, but I've used Slixx a couple of times now and I'd have to say I prefer them, they just seem to hold their shape better. I don't use Solvaset ever, just Microsol if needed and the Slixx rarely even need that unless its a really complex surface. Sort of personal preference between them really.
Paul
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Post by Ben_B on Mar 8, 2020 5:45:09 GMT -8
Solvaset is my Big F-ing Hammer for problem decals. I usually try to stick with the milder Microsol, if anything at all.  Ben |
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Post by Joel_W on Mar 8, 2020 7:06:30 GMT -8
Adrian,
As Ben said the downside to Indy Cal's is the single super large decal where you have to trim every single decal, but it's not that hard. Michael use to have two Alp's printers, so he couldn't print true White. He sold them off a few years ago as Alp supplies were drying up as I think they're no longer in business. The trade off is with his new printers he can't print true Gold. So a lot of the JPS Lotus schemes as I need them, come from the Asian AM guys via Spot Models inn Spain.
His decals work perfectly with my 3 step process which includes Solvaset. Never had any colors run.
I also love the Kool sponsorship, but for me it was when Paul Tracy drove for Green. My problem is that I had to force myself to stop buying a 1/2 dozen sheets at a time as I'll never build those cars in what's left of my time line.
Joel
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Post by Deleted on Mar 8, 2020 15:24:21 GMT -8
Adrian, As Ben said the downside to Indy Cal's is the single super large decal where you have to trim every single decal, but it's not that hard. Michael use to have two Alp's printers, so he couldn't print true White. He sold them off a few years ago as Alp supplies were drying up as I think they're no longer in business. The trade off is with his new printers he can't print true Gold. So a lot of the JPS Lotus schemes as I need them, come from the Asian AM guys via Spot Models inn Spain. His decals work perfectly with my 3 step process which includes Solvaset. Never had any colors run. I also love the Kool sponsorship, but for me it was when Paul Tracy drove for Green. My problem is that I had to force myself to stop buying a 1/2 dozen sheets at a time as I'll never build those cars in what's left of my time line. Joel
My personal opinion on decaling may offend some here and if it does I apologize in advance, but I think 'rushing' the decal process right from opening the darn things through to final application finishing is what separates great decaling from shabby stuff. Having said that, of course it's going to help a ton if you start out with a superior decal, but unless I consciously slow myself down when decaling .. I am so excited by the stage that I won't do a great application. |
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Post by Joel_W on Mar 9, 2020 7:14:38 GMT -8
Adrian,
Back in the old wild west days of the 1970s, almost nothing from AM guys was available except for the Aviation guys to some extent, and then only at the conventions as there wasn't an internet, only magazines to advertise in. Way to expensive for the little home guy. These days we're truly spoiled.
My take on specifically decals, is that the AM guys forced the kit manufactures to up their game with their decals, as the quality and subject matter sold kits. Not everyone can afford AM decals with shipping and handling. Cartograf is now the preferred printing house for many kit makers, which is a fantastic thing for us.
Can you be a little more specific on what you're referring to by rushing the decaling process? Personally, I treat it just like I treat any of the different stages of model construction, which is a clean workbench, clean tools, warm water, all my chemicals and tools laid out like I was doing mini surgery, and I find it necessary to plan out the how, where, and why's before hand.
Joel
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Post by Ben_B on Mar 9, 2020 7:58:12 GMT -8
What is this "clean workbench" you speak of?
I know what Adrian means about rushing things. I tend to get into a rhythm and have to sometimes slow myself down so I don't screw anything up. For me, it's especially evident when I'm putting dozens of tiny stencils on an airplane model or when dealing with a large, complex decal that has to go over multiple compound curves. I really enjoy the decal process, but I have to remind myself to slow down and let the solutions do their thing; sometimes I'll even walk away for a few minutes to keep myself from touching the decal when I know I shouldn't.
Re. JPS decals, the ones on the black Lotus F.1 cars from the 70s actually had "Biscuit" trim instead of gold. Did that change later on?
Ben
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Post by 2lapsdown on Mar 9, 2020 11:57:26 GMT -8
While we're discussing decals, I have a question. I'm building Lance Seller's original 1964 Indy winner. This car had cooling holes cut in both sides of the body. The decals have to go over those holes. My plan is to apply the decals and then carefully slit them over each hole to allow the setting solution (Solvaset) to draw them into the holes. My question is, do I slit them while still damp or allow them to dry before slitting. The solution will come after slitting in either case. Thanks guys
John
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Post by arcticwolf on Mar 9, 2020 12:58:05 GMT -8
Re. JPS decals, the ones on the black Lotus F.1 cars from the 70s actually had "Biscuit" trim instead of gold. Did that change later on? Ben Yes Ben, they did. The Fittipaldi car was black with gold trim. I think 2 years later it was changed to yellow, and then after it became that biscuit colour. Or something like that, lol.
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Post by Deleted on Mar 9, 2020 14:38:25 GMT -8
While we're discussing decals, I have a question. I'm building Lance Seller's original 1964 Indy winner. This car had cooling holes cut in both sides of the body. The decals have to go over those holes. My plan is to apply the decals and then carefully slit them over each hole to allow the setting solution (Solvaset) to draw them into the holes. My question is, do I slit them while still damp or allow them to dry before slitting. The solution will come after slitting in either case. Thanks guys John |
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Post by Deleted on Mar 9, 2020 14:46:58 GMT -8
What is this "clean workbench" you speak of? I know what Adrian means about rushing things. I tend to get into a rhythm and have to sometimes slow myself down so I don't screw anything up. For me, it's especially evident when I'm putting dozens of tiny stencils on an airplane model or when dealing with a large, complex decal that has to go over multiple compound curves. I really enjoy the decal process, but I have to remind myself to slow down and let the solutions do their thing; sometimes I'll even walk away for a few minutes to keep myself from touching the decal when I know I shouldn't. Re. JPS decals, the ones on the black Lotus F.1 cars from the 70s actually had "Biscuit" trim instead of gold. Did that change later on? Ben
Agreed that the process is like surgery .. at least if you want to achieve a great result you need to look at it that way ... in my humble opinion. |
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Post by Joel_W on Mar 10, 2020 7:12:33 GMT -8
Paul, From my limited research, you're 100% correct on the Gold, to Yellow, to Bisquit for the JPS Lotuses including Roush's SCCA GTO, and IMSA GT JPS Mustangs. I found that you have to be careful when buying AM decals as they do mix the colors up every so often. As for a clean work bench, I do clean mine after every work session, and for decaling it's super clean. All tools, chemicals, decals, and references needed are laid out. I even have 4 Sable brushes that are used only for decaling. All tools, chemicals, etc. are all kept together in a bin and only used for decaling. Decals that need to have slits cut in them for grills, etc. I handle the exact opposite of Adrian. I apply the decal with my 3 solutions giving each one enough time for the solution to do it's thing. You just wait till the chemical is being absorbed by the decal, the dab, pat, or roll gently. The decal as it dries will settle into the slit, showing exactly where the cut or cuts need to be made. I wait till the decal has completely dried for a full day, then with a brand new #11 blade cut as needed, then apply Solvaset. Damp and the decal just reacts perfectly. The few times I tried to cut a damp or wet decal, I damaged them as it's real easy to do. Here's my current build, the Porsche 935 K3 with the multi grill openings on the both front fenders done by my procedure. Joel   |
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Post by Ben_B on Mar 10, 2020 8:56:33 GMT -8
Using Joel's method to cut decals also minimizes the possibility of nudging the decal out of position while you're trying to cut it. Joel, that livery is striking! I clean up my bench after I finish each build. Unfortunately, I can be pretty slack about putting paint bottles away as I use them, so they start to accumulate as each build goes on. I store my supplies and kits in a closet in my office, so I actually have to get out of my chair and walk over five feet to get a new bottle or put something away. It's tough! Ben |
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Post by Joel_W on Mar 12, 2020 12:58:27 GMT -8
Thanks Ben for the thumbs up.
I just got into the habit of putting things away asap as my original bench was nothing more then a wooden tv folding tray that I added a larger plywood work surface to, but there just wasn't room for anything not currently being used. And when done the head of the household made sure that I folded the table and put it in the closet. Times sure have changed for better as I have an entire bedroom for my hobbies.
Joel
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