What's the best way to mount this type of mirror

[jchrisf]

These mirrors are to thin IMO to drill and pin to the car.  I could easily drill the hole through the hood and glue them straight in like the manual suggest but they would be fragile if I transported them.  Any tips for mounting this type of mirror (on hood) with a long skinny base?

[Cat Barf]

I think your best bet is to drill a hole and mount them on steel pins or pylons made from thin sheet metal and then be very careful when you pack and unpack the models for transport. I frequently run into this problem on my 1/43 open wheel models when the attachment point is a tiny butt join of the end of a photo-etched pylon to the body and/or the vac-formed windshield. I am constantly re-attaching them. Whenever possible I replace the photo-etched pylons with steel pins and/or pylons made from sheet brass with a point filed into the end that attaches to
a hole that I have drilled into the body or windshield. See photos:

[tatocorvette]

I've had that problem before. If I can't pin them, I glue them in place with white glue or clear window making glue to protect the surface. However, it is very weak and can be easily knocked off. Stronger glue like CA may fog the surface. Have you tried supergluing the pin to the bottom of the mirror before painting?

Thanks,
Ismael

[afx]

Pin mounting mirrors is always the best choice.  Metal wire/rod or styrene rod can work.  Here I extended the kit part pin with the white plastic rod to provide a more secure fit and greater bonding surface.




Here is the mirror dry fit without any glue yet applied.

[jchrisf]

Thanks for the replies everyone... I thought I linked a pic to show what they looked like but it is not showing.. I'll try again:

[jchrisf]

Apr 24, 2020 7:15:56 GMT -8 Cat Barf said:

I think your best bet is to drill a hole and mount them on steel pins or pylons made from thin sheet metal and then be very careful when you pack and unpack the models for transport. I frequently run into this problem on my 1/43 open wheel models when the attachment point is a tiny butt join of the end of a photo-etched pylon to the body and/or the vac-formed windshield. I am constantly re-attaching them. Whenever possible I replace the photo-etched pylons with steel pins and/or pylons made from sheet brass with a point filed into the end that attaches to
a hole that I have drilled into the body or windshield. See photos:

I think you may be right... I might just have to be careful with it.

[jchrisf]

Apr 24, 2020 8:25:12 GMT -8 tatocorvette said:

I've had that problem before. If I can't pin them, I glue them in place with white glue or clear window making glue to protect the surface. However, it is very weak and can be easily knocked off. Stronger glue like CA may fog the surface. Have you tried supergluing the pin to the bottom of the mirror before painting?

Thanks,
Ismael

Ismeal, I may have to get a better pic of the mirrors but these are extremely small mounts that extend up a ways.. I'm afraid I'll break it before I complete the model if I don't wait til the end to mount them.  But using the white glue might be the best choice so the glue fails before the part breaks.

[jchrisf]

Apr 24, 2020 11:30:33 GMT -8 afx said:

Pin mounting mirrors is always the best choice.  Metal wire/rod or styrene rod can work.  Here I extended the kit part pin with the white plastic rod to provide a more secure fit and greater bonding surface.




Here is the mirror dry fit without any glue yet applied.

JC, that might be an option... I might just have to cut off the long arm on it now and replace at the base of the mirror with a brass rod.  You didn't even have to glue those on did you?

[afx]

Apr 25, 2020 11:27:12 GMT -8 jchrisf said:

Apr 24, 2020 11:30:33 GMT -8 afx said:

Pin mounting mirrors is always the best choice.  Metal wire/rod or styrene rod can work.  Here I extended the kit part pin with the white plastic rod to provide a more secure fit and greater bonding surface.

Here is the mirror dry fit without any glue yet applied.

JC, that might be an option... I might just have to cut off the long arm on it now and replace at the base of the mirror with a brass rod.  You didn't even have to glue those on did you?

I glued them on during final assembly, but in the photo there is no glue, just the pin holding them in place.