How do decide what colors to use ?

[bsmooth]

Excuse me for asking so many questions, but how do you know what colors to use for items and the body of the car? I mean OK a fire extinguisher has to be red, but what kind of red, what brand of paint? Do you use others peoples builds and use that as a reference.

 I'm doing Dale Jr's car, what red do I use, is a Ferrari red OK ? (I would say probably not, seems like sacrilege).

A lot of times it only gives a general color in the instructions, and I'm sure some don't even go that far.

For Dale's car I have some reference images, but that doesn't tell me the right color. I suppose I could mix my own red, but a lot of times what looks good, doesn't spray and lay on the model the same way.

 Or as usual am I over complicating things, and I should just use any old red? I'm trying to use David Thibedeau's videos as a guide. BTW I see people saying to use 2K as a clear coat, but I'm not sure what that means. I definitely want to clear coat mine, just not sure what to use.

I'm also checking in daily to all the new threads, and I can't say enough on how much I'm impressed with everyone's builds and workmanship.

[tatocorvette]

The best paint is the one you have. Don't worry too much about it. There are a gazillion million shades of red. Unless you are competing for money or building a model for a museum, who cares? I mean, yes we take it seriously but if it looks good to you, go with it.
That been said, paint suppliers like Scalefinishes.com can guide you to the right color or at least very very close.
There are many types of paints: Enamels, lacquers, acrylics, urethanes etc. and many brands. The best way is to try them all (or as many as you can) and decide which one you like best. You need to be careful about compatibility and not mixing paint types.
About 2K clear: That is 2 part clear that cures chemically. Usually urethane based. It requires adding hardener to the base clear. On the other hand, 1K clear are single stage clears that dry by evaporation. There are a million 2K clear options out there, and a gazillion billion trillion options of single stage clear, which has been around for decades. Again, it is a matter of trying and deciding which one you like. Personally, I prefer single stage lacquer clear to 2K, but that is purely a personal choice. Many will disagree with me.
It is all about practice. So, go out there, give it your best, but more importantly, have fun!

Thanks,
Ismael

[Ben_B]

Ask away! That's the best way to learn and we're here to help.

To add to Ismael's reply, I tend toward "good enough" with basic colors like fire extinguisher red or gloss white because this is a hobby I use to try to maintain my sanity. I'll follow the paint guide in the instructions, but if they call for a specific color for some small detail part and I don't have it, I'll improvise with whatever I have in the paint stash. I do try to get relatively close with exterior colors, but I don't like mixing colors, thus "relatively close" is close enough for me.

Use whatever paint brand you're comfortable with. I like to use decanted Tamiya TS spray paints for car bodies when I can because they're very forgiving paints. I need all the help I can get! I've also had good results with paint from Gravity Colors Spain, Splash Paint, Model Car World, and Zero Paints. Their solvents tend to be hotter than Tamiya's, so you'll need to apply them over a primer (I use Tamiya).

For interiors and detail parts, I'll use whatever brand of paint that I have in the appropriate color. I've been switching over to almost exclusively Tamiya, Gunze, and Mr Hobby paints.

One thing I always try to use acrylics on is clear parts. A lot of the sports cars I build have black areas on the insides of the windows. The good thing about acrylics is they won't craze the clear plastic if any seeps under the mask. If an acrylic gets under the mask, you can just scrape it off with a toothpick. If you really screw up, you can just chuck it in a bowl of Windex to remove the paint and start over. I've done that a couple of times on my current build.

I use Tamiya TS-13, decanted from the rattle can, for my clear coats, mainly because I can buy it locally. Joel uses Mr Hobby Super Clear Gloss and really likes it, so I may give that a try at some point. The 2K clears seem like more trouble than I'm willing to deal with, so I'm sticking with what I know.

If you have more questions, give us a shout!

Ben

[bsmooth]

Thanks, its a bit confusing on what goes over what, but hotter paints you said must go over a protective primer.I'll use the Tamiya primer as well I think. I never heard of Gravity Colors, Zero paint,Gunze and many of the others either. But I am definitely am going to look into those. looks as though once I get the Tamya primer on I should be good to go on just about any paints.

[tatocorvette]

You can put pretty much any paint type over good primer like Tamiya. Be aware if you are going to use clear, it must be compatible with the paint type you choose.
I recommend Scalefinishes.com  My primary paint supplier.

Thanks,
Ismael

[bsmooth]

Maybe I'll try the Mr. Hobby one, although I have to say I've heard nothing but good things about the Zero paints. The Gravity paints are good too, but onlt from Spain, not the US ones.

[Joel_W]

Bsmooth,
 the guys gave you some excellent advice, so I'll try not to cover the same ground twice.

As far as paint brands, Gravity, Zero, MCW, Splash, ScaleFinishes, Zero, Mr. Color, & Tamiya TS Rattle cans, are lacquer based. ScaleFinishes also has a complete line of enamels as well. All these paints really need a primer coat as to not crazy the plastic. And all of them come pre-thinned with the exception of Mr. Color & Tamiya. Tamiya paints are a Acrylic Lacquer, but I'd still prime as well to be on the safe side. Right now your best bet is with paint companies that are located here in the USA. Shipping times from overseas is running 2 wks to 2 months. And Zero paints has shut down till their suppliers have their needed supplies available. Basically, all the pre-thinned lacquers air brush nearly the same. Mr. Color and Tamiya paints are available literally everywhere on line.

As Ben said, my go to gloss clear coat is Mr. Color. The key is how you thin it. Don't laugh but I still use Testors Dull coat and Clear coat after more then 50 years. Never had a single issue with either one of them.

If you're building one of Jr's Nascar cars, then the companies best suited to have the proper colors are MCW and ScaleFinishes. You can even call them and ask for the exact color. ScaleFinishes web site is easy to use while MCW is still under construction, so calling is the best bet.

As for basic colors such are fire engine Red, it varies some by the actual maker of the extinguisher, but basically they're all bright Gloss Red. The key for bright Red is to have a light gray primer or white primer. The darker the primer, the darker the Red will be. As for detailing parts, like rubber boots or hoses, rubber isn't flat black, it's a very dark Gray. Leather has a slight sheen to it. Best sheen is after it dries and cures is to rub your finger across your forehead, then rub it on the painted leather. It will start to look just like the real deal.

Just one tip about air brushing. Lite, easy passes without stopping is the best way to go. Don't stop, and don't go back. Let it set up, and do another pass. From primer to finished paint job I'm usually 2 coats primer plus a tack coat, 4 coats color plus a tack coat. You can always add more coats, you can't remove excess paint that runs or has orange peel till it dries.

Joel

[bsmooth]

How is ScaleFinishes as far as getting back to you by email ? Only reason I ask is its been a week, and I emailed them again yesterday, still no response yet. Maybe something to do with the Virus?

[tatocorvette]

He is usually quick in the responses. I got a note from him last week that he was in full operation. Been basically a one man show he is probably very busy. I'll send him a note.
Just to be sure his email is; [e-mail]

Thanks,
Ismael

[bsmooth]

I'll check the address and try again, it wouldn't be the first time I sent something to the wrong email and then wondered why I didn't get an answer

Thanks, I appreciate the help.

[bsmooth]

He got back to me over the weekend, I guess he hadn't updated his site with some new colors he had.

[tatocorvette]

Cool! He is working on a new website but it's been very slow. He now has his own paint mixing machine. He can do any color as long as a formula exist.