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Post by Joel_W on Jul 27, 2021 7:26:38 GMT -8
Ben, Thanks so much for your thumbs up, it's greatly appreciated. Like I said, I spent way to much time trying to make the one piece coil over shocks look more like two separate parts when I discovered that you really can't see much of the shocks after the shock towers are installed, let alone when the chassis section that goes right over it is glued in place. Just one small opening to peer through. Still, it was really satisfying to get them to look that way.
joel
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Post by adrian29341 on Jul 28, 2021 9:12:07 GMT -8
Excellent work Joel - the detail on those Springs and the Pop of the red looks fantastic! I know what you mean because even though something may not be seen once the model is complete I will always know it was done properly - it would eat at me if it wasn't - and I think you are the same way But your modeling has gone up a couple of notches to say the least since the last build I followed last year - and your stuff then was fantastic so you are too hard on yourself - this model is looking fantastic! Excellent detail work that is something I always love to see and appreciate - Can't wait to see the finished product
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Post by Joel_W on Jul 28, 2021 10:39:53 GMT -8
Adrian, Many thanks my friend for your most kind words. I do try my best to push myself to get just a little be better detail wise with every build. Yeah, I'm just like you in gotta do it right if I can. This is one of the main reasons why I joined this site, and love it here. There's so many excellent builders that I learn something from on everyone of their builds. And they say that you can't teach an old dog new tricks.
BTW, love your avatar picture. Senna and Hamilton two of the very best.
joel
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Post by arcticwolf on Jul 28, 2021 13:43:16 GMT -8
Joel, talk about details you go nuts on and never see again? I built a complete Ferrari, spent hours on all the little bits, it looked pretty good. And then I couldn't get the bodywork to fit no matter what I did - ended up gluing it all in place. Might as well have left the engine out and called it a curbside. But look at it this way, it's good practice for next time when you will see it!
Your little Lotus is going to look great, keep it up.
Paul
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Post by Joel_W on Jul 28, 2021 16:05:10 GMT -8
thanks Paul for the support, it's much appreciated. I've had more then my fair share of bodies that had to be glued into place, and everything under it was just buried forever. Believe me, I know and feel your pain.
joel
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Post by Joel_W on Aug 3, 2021 7:29:01 GMT -8
Time sure flies when you’re at the bench these days, and after more then another week, I’ve once again got enough done for a short update. While I’m not really a major detailer by any means, these days preferring to concentrate on enhancements as needed so that the finished model is the best display model I can realistically build. But for some reason I decided to add more and more details to the Lotus type 79. But with my luck a good percentage of it will be under various body panels that need to be removed for viewing or display. At least with a little effort or change of display, almost all of the detailing can still be seen. 1st up was painting, adding the positive an negative/ground cables to the small battery used in F1 cars, and then installing it along with running those two cables. Then the nose compartment that the battery shares with the 3 Master Cylinders had it’s top cover glued into place as you can see everything that I want the viewer to see through the top opening, as that’s how the mechanics do it. The gas tank unlike in todays F1 cars was refillable during the race, so it’s just that massive sheet metal structure at the end of chassis. The fuel pump, metering unit, and fuel injection lines were added but for now just end up sticking out into space. Ok, it’s finally time to pay some attention to the driver’s cockpit. The gear shift lever is just the kit part, painted and installed into a notch in the right hand sidewall. On top of the left side wall is a slide level that I attached a rubber coupling and ran a steel rod towards the engine, but I have literally no idea of what it is or used for. The slide lever is made from a steel pin and the knob just white glue that still needs to be painted Gloss Black. The simple 3 gauge instrument panel was painted, decaled, and the lenses are just Pledge floor Polish. The steering wheel was painted Aluminum while the rim is Tamiya Nato Black that looks just like the worn rubberized wheel grips of the day. The foot pedals are there but you can barely see them. The seat also has been given a base coat of Nato Black with the 6 point harness yet to be installed. the seat is just dry fitted at this point for a better visual of the pit. Almost forgot to add the single maker ID. plate to the left front side of the cockpit as represented by a decal. Luckily, I was able to apply the decal after the Instrument panel and wheel was installed. Finally, I glued the rear chassis bulkhead that the engine will be attached to into place with good old fashion Revell Professional tube type glue as long term strength is super important as it hold up the entire rear suspension, engine, and transaxle. Here’s 3 pictures of the chassis to date: Thanks to all for stopping by and checking out my build to date. It’s always much appreciated. joel
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Post by arcticwolf on Aug 3, 2021 10:25:22 GMT -8
Looks great as always Joel. Looks almost 1/12th scale in the pics.
The lever on the left would be the sway bar bias adjustment on an Indycar, but on the Lotus it's more likely the brake bias adjuster. I've been looking but I can't find anything specific to that car (same item is on the 78).
Good luck with the rest of it!
Paul
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Post by adrian29341 on Aug 3, 2021 10:57:44 GMT -8
Time sure flies when you’re at the bench these days, and after more then another week, I’ve once again got enough done for a short update. While I’m not really a major detailer by any means, these days preferring to concentrate on enhancements as needed so that the finished model is the best display model I can realistically build. But for some reason I decided to add more and more details to the Lotus type 79. But with my luck a good percentage of it will be under various body panels that need to be removed for viewing or display. At least with a little effort or change of display, almost all of the detailing can still be seen. 1st up was painting, adding the positive an negative/ground cables to the small battery used in F1 cars, and then installing it along with running those two cables. Then the nose compartment that the battery shares with the 3 Master Cylinders had it’s top cover glued into place as you can see everything that I want the viewer to see through the top opening, as that’s how the mechanics do it. The gas tank unlike in todays F1 cars was refillable during the race, so it’s just that massive sheet metal structure at the end of chassis. The fuel pump, metering unit, and fuel injection lines were added but for now just end up sticking out into space. Ok, it’s finally time to pay some attention to the driver’s cockpit. The gear shift lever is just the kit part, painted and installed into a notch in the right hand sidewall. On top of the left side wall is a slide level that I attached a rubber coupling and ran a steel rod towards the engine, but I have literally no idea of what it is or used for. The slide lever is made from a steel pin and the knob just white glue that still needs to be painted Gloss Black. The simple 3 gauge instrument panel was painted, decaled, and the lenses are just Pledge floor Polish. The steering wheel was painted Aluminum while the rim is Tamiya Nato Black that looks just like the worn rubberized wheel grips of the day. The foot pedals are there but you can barely see them. The seat also has been given a base coat of Nato Black with the 6 point harness yet to be installed. the seat is just dry fitted at this point for a better visual of the pit. Almost forgot to add the single maker ID. plate to the left front side of the cockpit as represented by a decal. Luckily, I was able to apply the decal after the Instrument panel and wheel was installed. Finally, I glued the rear chassis bulkhead that the engine will be attached to into place with good old fashion Revell Professional tube type glue as long term strength is super important as it hold up the entire rear suspension, engine, and transaxle. Here’s 3 pictures of the chassis to date: Thanks to all for stopping by and checking out my build to date. It’s always much appreciated. joel If this is you being a detailer then keep it up my friend - that's fantastic stuff - such a clean cockpit in every respect and detailed in full as far as I can tell. This tub is looking incredible as the silver almost looks Iridescent - a greenish tone showing from certain angles - I love it!
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Post by Joel_W on Aug 3, 2021 10:58:20 GMT -8
Paul, Thanks so much for stopping buy and your thumbs up. Coming from you it means quite a lot.
I thought about that level being for the sway bars but it only goes towards the rear, so the front bar can't be adjusted from the pit. Still it makes sense as you can adjust the rear for over and understeer. I would think that brake bias would be adjusted by turning a valve or knob to change the amount of brake fluid pressure from one side to the other side of a valve that you create by stepping on the brake pedal.
Joel
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Post by Joel_W on Aug 3, 2021 11:03:46 GMT -8
Adrian, Thanks so much for stopping and checking out my build to date. Two thumbs up from you guys really made my day. As for the color tint of the Alcad2, I'm pretty sure it's caused by the desk lamp I'm using as a fill light.
BTW, finding good pics of a current Indy car cockpit is a lot harder then I thought it would be. You would think that there's plenty around, but not the case. For some reason they prefer to take pictures of the drivers seating in the car, instead of the cockpit without the driver. Now don't that beat all.
joel
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Post by arcticwolf on Aug 3, 2021 12:09:17 GMT -8
Joel, these pics are of a later model Lotus 78 where the sway bar has been re-located on top (different from the car I'm building), but you can clearly see the cable from the cockpit to the sway bar adjuster, so I think we're right in assuming that the lever is for rear bar adjustment. Hope they help.
cheers
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Post by adrian29341 on Aug 4, 2021 9:08:53 GMT -8
Adrian, Thanks so much for stopping and checking out my build to date. Two thumbs up from you guys really made my day. As for the color tint of the Alcad2, I'm pretty sure it's caused by the desk lamp I'm using as a fill light. BTW, finding good pics of a current Indy car cockpit is a lot harder then I thought it would be. You would think that there's plenty around, but not the case. For some reason they prefer to take pictures of the drivers seating in the car, instead of the cockpit without the driver. Now don't that beat all. joel Your photography is always brilliant Joel ... mine is always terrible ... I just use my camera phone and it always shows up far different from the actual pieces.
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Post by Joel_W on Aug 5, 2021 5:54:22 GMT -8
Paul, Thanks for the pics of the cable assembly for the rear sway bar adjustments. It now makes total sense to me.
As I've been working on the various body panels to get ready for the painting process, on the Tamiya kit the body is built up in layers: bottom tray and lower side pods, top tray with the the top of the side pods, the top cover from the nose to the back of the cockpit, the cockpit cover, and the rear deck and engine cover. The engine cover is a no brainer to make removable, but I really don't want to have to remove the complete top cover to expose the nose section with the battery and master cylinders.
The Tamiya molding doesn't show any recessed panel lines for a separate nose section, but your type 78 has it. I keep on googling anything I can think of for pictures to prove or disapprove that small nose section cover. By any chance do you have a pic to clarify it for me?
joel
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Post by Ben_B on Aug 5, 2021 7:17:37 GMT -8
Looking great, Joel!
Ben
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Post by arcticwolf on Aug 5, 2021 13:19:20 GMT -8
Paul, Thanks for the pics of the cable assembly for the rear sway bar adjustments. It now makes total sense to me. As I've been working on the various body panels to get ready for the painting process, on the Tamiya kit the body is built up in layers: bottom tray and lower side pods, top tray with the the top of the side pods, the top cover from the nose to the back of the cockpit, the cockpit cover, and the rear deck and engine cover. The engine cover is a no brainer to make removable, but I really don't want to have to remove the complete top cover to expose the nose section with the battery and master cylinders. The Tamiya molding doesn't show any recessed panel lines for a separate nose section, but your type 78 has it. I keep on googling anything I can think of for pictures to prove or disapprove that small nose section cover. By any chance do you have a pic to clarify it for me? joel I think I know what you're after Joel. The 78 had the monocoque partly exposed as part of the bodywork, the 79 did not. The nose is not a separate part on your car, so I think the kit seems to be built accurately to the real car. Maybe these two pics will help. (sorry it doesn't cure your problem).
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