Huffaker Racing Firebird

[arcticwolf]

In 1982 Mecham/Huffaker Racing changed the game in the TransAm series. They threw away the "modified for racing stock car" and built a pure tube frame race car wrapped up in some Firebird sheet metal - a silhouette racer.

My objective was to build a reasonable facsimile of the #50 car:

Started with an AMT stock Firebird body, and used my universal Revell chassis as a test mule:

This confirms wheelbase will work perfectly:

Track is fine, but the space frame will need a lot of adjustment (lots of mods needed anyway):

[arcticwolf]

step one was to radius the wheel wells (dremel)

step two, find something the right size - rears are the inner parts of Tamiya spray can lids, fronts are empty Microsol bottles:

CA'd in place, they are exactly the right diameter.

Trimmed back and test fit:

Started the chassis (another Revell kit) with some adjustments, test fit:

[Joel_W]

Paul,
Great project for sure. I'll be following right along as you solve one issue after the other.

Gee, what were the odds both the Microset bottle and Tamiya spray can led were exactly the correct dia for both front and rear wheel arches.

The Revell chassis once spread with some sheet plastic fits like a glove.

Can't wait to see how you go about forming the flars for the wheel wells.

joel

[arcticwolf]

That's why I keep all this weird stuff Joel.

The basic contours are done with JB Weld, it machines fairly easily, plus some styrene pieces where needed

After that, 3M spot putty, fill, sand, prime and repeat as needed

Those T-tops were a pain to fix and required some backing from beneath (just like the 1:1 cars !!)

[arcticwolf]

Meanwhile, back in the chassis shop. The Revell is a close match to a Riley & Scott chassis (Mustangs and Capris), being a Camaro kit it has some conversion bits for a Pratt & Miller (GM cars), which I used plus lots of styrene rod. Any engine will work as long as the valve covers and intake are Chev, that's all you see of it.

Similarly I used the front plate to mount the engine because you'll barely see it either (the real car had motor mounts)

Everything was buried under the rear deck, so I just skipped it all, made a deck cover and some wheel tubs, started on the hood:

And ready for the body:

[arcticwolf]

I had a cheap copycat set of decals, but I decided to do my own since I now have a nice new Epson printer. They look good, very thin and stretchable so a bit tricky to work with. At least the Epson dye is waterproof! Ready for clearcoat:

And I had to make up a rear wing for it:

[arcticwolf]

Finished product. The brake scoops had to go in after the body was on (they used the headlight slots!)

This is RustOleum urethane clear. It eats some decals alive but has no effect on my home printed ones. Go figure.

cheers guys

[Joel_W]

Paul,
What an amazing build, and it's not even in 1/12 scale no less.

The flared wheel wells really took quite a lot of work, but the end result really makes your effort more then worth while. Over all, the body and wing look simply spectacular. And the chassis and interior looks just as good as the best of any Revell's. It's fit sure looks dead on. And finally those home made decals. I'd say you'd give Michael at Indy Cal's a good run for his money.

joel

[kyledehart5]

Fantastic result!! Great job shaping those wheel wells. Your homemade decals are right on the money too. Really love this build.

[arcticwolf]

Thanks guys.

Joel, I have no desire to give Michael a run for anything. I'd much prefer to buy decals from him than go through all the work just to end up with a set I'll only ever use once.

I only print what I can't otherwise buy, lol. But thanks anyway.

[2whl]

Paul, fantastic job on it. But I especially like the flares

[afx]

Nice work Paul.

[sam]

Love it!
You need to do more of these kind of subjects. 😁