Post by aurfalien on May 7, 2016 15:43:30 GMT -8
Esteemed builders,
This project started out fun but ended up a nightmare, only because of the decals.
I tried hot water and decal soution but nothing really worked completely for me. It helped but wasn't 100%.
For some reason, I threw the original decal sheet in water, I never do this and usually just cut out what I need. A few moments later it was as if Wolverine came by and sliced up my decals! They pretty much disintigrated, even the small ones.
Unsure why, but I scanned the sheet before hand, probably because it looked poor to begin with.
At any rate, I made a few prints but was unhappy so I bought a set from Studio27. I ruined the big decals going around the curves and vents so I went back to my prints and made them work.
I suggest doing a high resolution scan in PNG format of any decal sheet in case you run into problems. Also when printing, use an inkjet due to richer blacks. Only caveat is to let it dry a good loooooong time. There is white and clear waterslide paper. What I found is that clear will not show the print if on a colored backround. Some times white paper is best, other times clear is best.
I actually loathed finishing this, but I have to finish what I start.
* In the end, I printed out my scans to waterslide paper which was thicker then normal decals. This allowed me to stretch the decal around a bit w/o tearing. It was also less likly to wrinkle like the thinner decals would. All in all I wouldn't recomend this kit or the Tamiya 936/78 (which is also in my stash) having similar body length decals, curves and vents. In fact GPMA did a somewhat unfavorable review of the 936/78 kit.
** This project was an excellent exercise in applying decals. Definately not for the faint hearted. I was not ready for this advanced of an application.
This project started out fun but ended up a nightmare, only because of the decals.
I tried hot water and decal soution but nothing really worked completely for me. It helped but wasn't 100%.
For some reason, I threw the original decal sheet in water, I never do this and usually just cut out what I need. A few moments later it was as if Wolverine came by and sliced up my decals! They pretty much disintigrated, even the small ones.
Unsure why, but I scanned the sheet before hand, probably because it looked poor to begin with.
At any rate, I made a few prints but was unhappy so I bought a set from Studio27. I ruined the big decals going around the curves and vents so I went back to my prints and made them work.
I suggest doing a high resolution scan in PNG format of any decal sheet in case you run into problems. Also when printing, use an inkjet due to richer blacks. Only caveat is to let it dry a good loooooong time. There is white and clear waterslide paper. What I found is that clear will not show the print if on a colored backround. Some times white paper is best, other times clear is best.
I actually loathed finishing this, but I have to finish what I start.
* In the end, I printed out my scans to waterslide paper which was thicker then normal decals. This allowed me to stretch the decal around a bit w/o tearing. It was also less likly to wrinkle like the thinner decals would. All in all I wouldn't recomend this kit or the Tamiya 936/78 (which is also in my stash) having similar body length decals, curves and vents. In fact GPMA did a somewhat unfavorable review of the 936/78 kit.
** This project was an excellent exercise in applying decals. Definately not for the faint hearted. I was not ready for this advanced of an application.
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