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Post by rasputen on Jan 22, 2013 14:02:54 GMT -8
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Post by imsanut on Jan 22, 2013 16:10:22 GMT -8
Nice indeed. Makes me want to dig into the IMC and MPC Jcars I bought built and in need of repair!
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Post by 4wheels on Jan 23, 2013 6:03:34 GMT -8
That's a cool build! I've never tried a half-clear build but I should, it looks neat.
Brian
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Post by mustangrex on Aug 20, 2017 11:05:43 GMT -8
I wish I could see the photos. Hardly anyone ever builds this kit.
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Post by rasputen on Aug 24, 2017 11:53:34 GMT -8
Fixed - now on Fotki...
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Post by mustangrex on Aug 24, 2017 14:26:16 GMT -8
Thanks for fixing the pictures. I was torn when I built mine between painting it or leaving it clear. These have become worth more than they should be but I went ahead and built it as close to pictures I could find online and in books. I like the half and half idea so I guess I am glad I did not copy that.
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Post by shunter on Aug 24, 2017 19:17:40 GMT -8
Great job and not as easy to do. How was the clear areas did they have sink marks and seam lines?
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Post by rasputen on Aug 26, 2017 4:28:19 GMT -8
The biggest problem with the clear body is that the pieces are very brittle. To save money on this model I bought two glue bombs, and the only usable front nose section had a very large crack in it. I was just able to conceal the crack under the painted area and the roundel. There is also some spider webbing above the right front wheel but it doesn't show up in the images. Another problem was that the lower front body extensions are separate pieces. I used canopy glue to attach the one that was left clear, but there is no way to hide the joint. The radiator air exit duct is also a separate piece so I had to paint half of it first and then attach it with canopy glue. I actually introduced another crack in the rear body, simply by pushing the tail light housing into its recess. I think there may have been some seam lines but they can be polished off.
I'm working on a Tamiya Mercedes 300 SL which uses a clear undertray. Making the undertray clear was a cool idea, but it is full of ejector pin marks. I'm not sure what to do with that one, I think the best solution there is to paint it but make it removable somehow.
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Post by mustangrex on Aug 26, 2017 7:55:19 GMT -8
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Post by mustangrex on Aug 26, 2017 7:58:12 GMT -8
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Post by Chris K. Hale on Aug 26, 2017 8:11:12 GMT -8
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Post by mustangrex on Aug 26, 2017 9:54:57 GMT -8
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