Fujimi 1/24 McLaren MP4-12C GT3

[Ben_B]

Even though I just finished the Platz M6 GT3, I decided to go ahead and start this one. I've been dying to build it ever since it arrived last November. I will be using Hobby Design decals for a Gemballa Racing car, which was apparently McLaren Azure Blue. I found a post on a McLaren owners forum saying that Mazda Aurora Blue is a perfect match, since McLaren doesn't sell touch-up paint. I'll hopefully get some primer on it tonight.


Ben

[tatocorvette]

Gorgeous car and gorgeous color! Will follow closely!

[Ben_B]

This one should (hopefully) go together pretty quickly. It’s a simple, good-fitting kit.

Ben

[robhart]

Jan 15, 2019 12:28:22 GMT -8 Ben_B said:

This one should (hopefully) go together pretty quickly. It’s a simple, good-fitting kit.

Ben

I usually jinx myself when I make statements like that.

[Ben_B]

Same! 

Got the first wet coat of blue applied. I thinned the Mazda touch-up paint 50:50 with Mr Leveling Thinner. It looks like the paint is a little thin in a couple of spots, but it's mostly just some variations in the sun and shadows. The hood, parts of the top, and several other large areas are going to be black. I'm thinking of adding some white to the black to make it more of a very dark gray. The real car seems to have more of a semi-gloss dark gray.


Ben

[Joel_W]

Ben,
The paint really looks great. Love the color.
Joel

[Ben_B]

Making progress! Unfortunately, the Mazda touch-up paint didn't adhere as well as it should have, and Tamiya tape pulled it up in spots. Makes me concerned about how the Titanuim Grey Mica I ordered for my 1/1 Miata will hold up! It looks like the Tamiya black lacquer has stabilized those areas of blue that I sprayed over, so after I do a little touching up with the blue, I'll hit the whole thing with some Tamiya clear gloss before I apply the decals.   



Ben

[Deleted]

Ben
You are a building machine I swear!!

[tatocorvette]

Looking good! Any idea what caused the paint adhesion issue?

[Ben_B]

Thanks!

I'm not sure what's causing the problem. I used Mr Base White as a primer, something I've used quite a bit without problems. The only variable with this model is I used automotive touch-up paint thinned with Mr Leveling Thinner. I'm guessing the paint and thinner may not have been compatible.

Ben

[tatocorvette]

Hi,

I had a similar situation a few years ago and it turned out the primer was not sticking properly to the plastic in some areas.

Thanks,
Ismael

[Joel_W]

Ben,
Still, the two tone paint scheme does look rather good. Usually, the underlying issue is that primer in this case Mr. Base White, didn't really adhere perfectly to the plastic. That could be caused by contamination including skin oils. Usually, Lacquer based primers will eat right through minor contaminations.

The issue here is that from what I've read about Mr. Base White, it's not a primer, but a undercoat for dark solid colors. I've never used it, so I have absolutely no 1st hand knowledge nor experience with it. The only primers I use are lacquer based: Mr. Hobby 1,200 primer sealer, Mr. Hobby 1,500 primer, & Tamiya White Primer. I use Tamiya Gray primer as a brushed on filler.

I'm assuming that the intended use for a white undercoat is to limit the amount of paint needed to completely cover a previous coat of paint or colored plastic.

Joel

[Ben_B]

Hi Ismael and Joel,

I think you’re right about the Mr Base White. I started using it as a substitute for Tamiya white primer, because I was too lazy to decant the Tamiya from the rattle can. I’ve used the Tamiya for years on my airliners. The Base White is also lacquer based, so I assumed it was a good alternative. I think I’ll go back to the Tamiya for future builds. If things don’t work out on this kit, I’ll just chuck the body in some Castrol Super Clean for a week and start over.

Cheers!

Ben

[Chris K. Hale]

I need to chime in here. I have a theory that I adhere to, 1) when using model products, use model products to avoid cross-contamination 2} when using Automotive based products use Automotive products from start to finish ( the only variation would be final clear coat). I use Plasticolor spot filler Automotive primer, yeah I'm lazy, right out of the can, then I go to the Bullhead City Auto & Marine where they have a PPG trained paint tech, I have them mix the OE paint right there and ask what is the proper mix for airbrush.1/4 pint will paint 4 cars cost $10.38.. Never had a cross- contamination problem. If I still feel unsure I call or go online to coastairbrush.com These guys know everything about every paint no matter of the type and they can tell you mix ratio, airpressure, and clean up info as well as any problems or precautions. For using model paints I will tend to use say Tamiya white primer , Tamiya TS sprays or decanted Tamiya paint, and again the only variation is Testors Ultra-Wet Lacquer Clear . Model products for models.. I have over the years seen too many problems using model primers, touch up or Automotive paints and then what ever finish.. When I designed cars for GM we switched the entire Paint factory to Water Based Acyrlic Lacquers , EPA mandated. We put up 75 foot vent stacks to vent it way up high as to not get complaints from the community. Most Automotive paints currently used is Waterbased Acyrlic Lacquer, even Audi, Mercedes etc... The paint process is quite a bit more involved than the old 67 Camaro paint job. ( watch a video on how they paint an Audi ), you will be amazed. I have won paint awards using House of Color with the proper reducer, inter clear and finish. I have won using Testors Enamels and also with Tamiya Ts.. Just save the heartbreak and work and stick to the type you want use.. MY 1 1/2 cents, based on 50+ years of trial and error... Chris

[Ben_B]

Yup, you're absolutely right. I think the next time I need a factory color, I'll just order modeling lacquer from MCW or Splash Paints. Too many unknowns when mixing auto paint with modeling paint. I must say, this old dog is learning all kinds of new stuff from you guys!

Ben