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Post by Joel_W on May 6, 2019 8:17:46 GMT -8
Apoxie and Milliput can be messy to work with. The good thing about it is you can smooth seams without having to allow for shrinkage, so you can shape it close to your final shape while it's still soft. You also don't have to worry about melting the plastic if you apply large quantities of it, like you do with solvent-based putties. I still tend to use too much and end up with more waste than I should at the end. I use the "wet finger" method or wet clay modeling tools to rough everything in. I'll then go back and wet sand to finish. Sometimes, you'll get some small holes or scratches that can be filled with your favorite filler. Ben Ben, I'm sure I'll get more comfortable with it as I use it more and more. I'm actually amazed I got through the 1st time with a positive conclusion. Joel |
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Post by Chris K. Hale on May 6, 2019 8:36:32 GMT -8
Good to see You getting the handle on the Apoxie Sculpt, I used to mix way too much too then I figured it out. Put some water on your fingers to keep it from sticking so much, it will evaporate so no worries. I make a small spreader out of a piece of scrap sheet, I mean like 1 inch square and use that to keep the thickness down. Using Dulicolor Spot Filler primers will eliminate scratch/sanding marks and some low spots cutting the need for the Bondo spot filler way down also. Keep up the updates , this is looking like a great build.. Chris
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Post by Joel_W on May 6, 2019 8:47:35 GMT -8
Good to see You getting the handle on the Apoxie Sculpt, I used to mix way too much too then I figured it out. Put some water on your fingers to keep it from sticking so much, it will evaporate so no worries. I make a small spreader out of a piece of scrap sheet, I mean like 1 inch square and use that to keep the thickness down. Using Dulicolor Spot Filler primers will eliminate scratch/sanding marks and some low spots cutting the need for the Bondo spot filler way down also. Keep up the updates , this is looking like a great build.. Chris Chris, thanks for the tips, especially the spreader. I can see that as being a huge material and time saver. As for the updates on the build, I'm hoping to do my usual of 1 update every week or two. there are so many small differences between variants, that it's a real challenge for someone like me with limited resources other then the net. Like I posted, the Gurney version seems to have a different radiator exhaust, the wrap around wing, and minus those large vents I already cut out. I'm still trying to find evidence if there were screens or not, and what those vents really are for. I've managed to collect pictures of most of the variants of the T 160, which all have slight changes. Joel |
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Post by Joel_W on May 11, 2019 5:28:45 GMT -8
Just a short non-update, update. I'm still trying to get enough of the basic needed corrections to the chassis/tub so I can prime and paint it, then onto the suspension if one can call it that.
I've got dozens and dozens of pictures of various T160s including the TS in various stages of restoration, being ripped down for restoration, or original cars of various versions, of which there were way more then I thought that there was. I originally thought that the entire chassis and tub were Aluminum sheet and some cast members. But I've got as many pictures of the inside of the tub in Semi Gloss/Gloss Neutral Gray. The amount of gray areas do vary. Does anyone know how the original chassis for the T160 TS for Team Surtees was finished?
Thanks,
Joel
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Post by Chris K. Hale on May 11, 2019 7:59:03 GMT -8
Joel can you send me a pic so I can see what you are referring to? Thanks Chris
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Post by Joel_W on May 12, 2019 6:58:48 GMT -8
Joel can you send me a pic so I can see what you are referring to? Thanks Chris Chris, Will do. Joel |
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Post by Joel_W on May 16, 2019 6:12:27 GMT -8
I've been working almost daily on the Lola, trying focus on getting the chassis, and top shells ready for primer. But I'm still no where near ready.  In the above picture I've added "L" pieces of sheet plastic to create a base over 4 somewhat large holes, so that I can apply Apoxy Sulpt Putty. I also lined the inside of the sidepod intakes to cover up some nasty depressions. Then I glued on both gas tank top sections. The fit was at best ok, with the inside seams needing quite a lot of work, so I could blend in the top and sides for a smooth fit. I also added the front clip intakes for the brake cooling hoses. I drilled two holes in each so I could run the hoses during final assembly.   I finished the radiator compartment and the radiator, which hasn't been installed as yet. In the 1st picture you'll notice three nose clips dead center on the front lip. Their purpose is to attach the front upper shell to the chassis, and have it removable. The only trouble is that it's totally unrealistic, ugly, and just a major eye sore. So I cut them off as they won't be needed since I've already decided to glue the front upper shell to the chassis since there is no attempt of any kind of realistic suspension. Just wheels that clip together via a tie rod which I haven't installed so that the front wheels turn in together, as this was originally a motorized toy car to start with.  Dry fitting revealed that the chassis once correctly aligned with the front shell was a good 1/4 inch short. Not only that but the nose section was tappered inward as well. I glued on two pieces of sheet as additional secure mounting pads, then after measuring an extention was cut from sheet. Naturally the fit was flush, but different thicknesses. So I sanded, then applied more Apoxy Putty including the 4 holes that I prepped with a base of sheet earlier. As you can tell, I'm really getting quite fond of the stuff. Sanded and polished to a perfect feathered edge. I also tapered all three of the mounting pads so that a mesh screen can be glued in place after painting. There are several more holes as yet to go in the back of the pan. Once the parts are glued into place, it's back to more Apoxy Sculpt.  I glued up the basic engine/transmition, and test fitted it along with the what is supposed to be the main support where the exhausts are attached to, as well as the engine, transmission, & rear suspension which doesn't exist. There are two spring type sub assemblies that the rear wing supports attach to. I'm still working on those, and haven't even touched the wing assembly as yet.  My original concept was to have both upper body sections removable for display, but even trying to fool the viewers eye with a so so suspension makes little sense. And honestly my scratch building skills aren't nearly good enough to pull off those suspensions. So I'm going to glue on the rear upper shell as well. Enough of the engine shows through the upper rear deck, so I can wire up the plugs, and run the lines for the fuel injection. Turning over the Lola you can see additional areas that I'll add some detailing to.  In the above top view, the rear deck has a series of holes. The 1st is for the Transmission oil cooler, the next pair is where the air hoses for the rear brakes suck in cool air, the next two smaller ovals are where the wing supports go through the shell, and then the two large ovals that I cut open in my 1st update, and thought that they were where the rear brake cooling hoses attached to. But now all I can come up with is that they're directly over the exhaust manifolds, so it's an easy and efficient way to exist the hot air that the headers create as well as the engine block. Someone had asked if I was going to apply screening. I've looked at the few pictures I have of those openings, which aren't very clear, and I can't see any screening added. What's more, this is the only T 160 version that had those openings as far as my research has revealed. So I'm not going to add any screening there unless some one has a picture showing it. Thanks to all for checking out my build to date. It's always much appreciated. Joel |
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Post by Joel_W on May 24, 2019 11:58:36 GMT -8
CONFESSION TIME,
For the 1st time since I left aircraft modeling and started modeling race and sport cars, I've put down a kit, reboxed it, and to the bottom of the stash it went. Honestly, every work session became shorter in duration as I accomplished less and less. I actually started to look for reasons not to work on the kit. I've just lost interest, focus, any little to no enjoyment as I forced myself to continue with this build.
So now I need to select a new build and get back on the winning track.
Joel
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cc
Full Time Ride
Posts: 141
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Post by cc on May 24, 2019 15:57:20 GMT -8
Joel. Do what you have to do. I believe one day you will pick it back up and do it justice. If your not enjoying the build put it away for another day. Keep you head up. I find when I reach this point I find a subject that will not take a lot of build time to snap me back to the enjoyment I do this in the first place for. Good luck and looking forward for you next build.
CC. 😎
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Post by Chris K. Hale on May 25, 2019 5:20:00 GMT -8
Joel and Bill, I agree, put it away and pick it up when the juices are flowing right again. I have a dozen projects that are in mid=build and I not afraid to admit it! Bill, the aftermarket thing can get out of control and is very intimidating some might think this is rocket science and we are in a space race...well my cure is Scratchbuilding.. I figure if I make most of it and make the details as part of the procedure then my wallet feels better and my brain feels like its Christmas. Over the last few years with so much available in aftermarket I have seen so many Overboard builds that have too much Stuff on them, one guy Nathan used to add all sorts of parts , even stuff that wasnt on the real car! and people didnt notice....or maybe care it just had a lot of detail to look at. A drag car builder who gained national attention for his totally detailed builds added way too much so, much that his builds although accurate looked Gaudy! So I just keep it clean, detail to a point and always keep it accurate .. Best thing when you put a project aside to do is move on dont get a builders block but pick up the next thing and go for it..that will keep you from having a dry spell. Build on Guys....Chris
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Post by Joel_W on May 25, 2019 6:01:18 GMT -8
Thanks guys for the thumbs up and the continued support.
I picked a kit with an envisioned build way above my skill level, and from day one was over my head. Little by little the conversion from motorized model/toy just was a compromise nearly everywhere. But when the build became all work and no fun, and I looked for reasons not to work on it, or work sessions of way less time, I realized that for now I'd rather work on a kit that was designed as a model kit.
It's just not my way to shelve a model car build, as I've completed everyone one to date since returning to race/sport cars from years on end of Aircraft and even Armor. What's more I didn't think that it's the right thing to do to just have the build fade away and hope that no one asks or even notices, especially for my list friends that have been there since the start. I actually feel better about the decision now after reading your posts, and having a night to think about.
And don't worry, I'll be hard at work on my next build very shortly. For me down time between builds is usually hours or a few days max.
Joel
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Post by Oldtimer on May 25, 2019 7:45:41 GMT -8
CONFESSION TIME, For the 1st time since I left aircraft modeling and started modeling race and sport cars, I've put down a kit, reboxed it, and to the bottom of the stash it went. Honestly, every work session became shorter in duration as I accomplished less and less. I actually started to look for reasons not to work on the kit. I've just lost interest, focus, any little to no enjoyment as I forced myself to continue with this build. So now I need to select a new build and get back on the winning track. Joel Got more of those than I prefer to admit to, so feel your pain. You have put a great deal of thought and effort into that build, and considering the 1:1 was a one-off, you have had to create a lot that the kit didn't offer. On some of mine that I have "stored", I look at what I really did accomplish, and chalk it up as a prototyping win. Good luck on the next one in line, your craftsmanship and attention to detail showed through on this one, and I am sure will be reflected in the next. |
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Post by Ben_B on May 25, 2019 8:56:52 GMT -8
I feel your pain, Joel! Like everyone else who has replied, I have several projects on hold for various reasons. I’ll pick one up occasionally and tinker with it until I’m reminded why I parked it in the first place. I did that with an airplane kit just this week. I look forward to seeing what you build next!
Ben
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Post by Joel_W on May 25, 2019 9:17:46 GMT -8
Old Timer & Ben,
Thanks guys for the support, it's really appreciated.
I've already passed the looking and tinkering with some kits in my small but somewhat constantly growing stash. Got the Beemax Porsche 935 K2 DRM car on my workbench, and started prepping the parts for suspension.
Joel
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Post by 2whl on May 25, 2019 9:31:55 GMT -8
CONFESSION TIME, For the 1st time since I left aircraft modeling and started modeling race and sport cars, I've put down a kit, reboxed it, and to the bottom of the stash it went. Honestly, every work session became shorter in duration as I accomplished less and less. I actually started to look for reasons not to work on the kit. I've just lost interest, focus, any little to no enjoyment as I forced myself to continue with this build. So now I need to select a new build and get back on the winning track. Joel Joel, there's no shame in putting a build aside. Like so many before me have already said, I've got more pre-started builds than I care to admit to. In fact, I've got this same kit in pre-started limbo. public.fotki.com/2whl/my-models/building-2/lola-t-160-ts/ |
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