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Post by Ben_B on Jul 29, 2020 16:33:15 GMT -8
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Post by Joel_W on Jul 30, 2020 5:04:33 GMT -8
Ben,
I'm with you on any other options. I have the kit, but really don't want to use either of the sponsor schemes as they're just plain boring. Even the Indy Cal decal options is all Ford sponsorship with Motorcraft. I have those same markings for one of the Revell IMSA Mustangs in my stash.
Joel
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Post by pnance26 on Jul 30, 2020 19:54:51 GMT -8
Joel, I'm not used to doing a clear coat on decals and window glass. So...
When shooting a clear, especially out of a rattle can, should I do two mist coats and then a wet coat like you do with color coats? Or do you do a single wet coat?
Ben B... Your Volt looks amazing! I love the colors and all the detail! Outstanding job!
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Post by vintagerpm on Jul 31, 2020 4:34:28 GMT -8
If shooting Tamiya lacquer over decals, yes, the first coat should be misted on. Tamiya lacquer can react with some decals if sprayed on too heavy. I would not clear over the window glass at all. I suspect rattle can clear would damage the clear plastic.
If for some reason I thought I needed to clearcoat window glass, I would only apply acrylic clearcoat or Pledge Floor Care (formerly Future). I've only ever done that on 1/43 models.
Mike
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Post by Joel_W on Jul 31, 2020 4:59:52 GMT -8
Patrick,
I'm strictly for all practical purposes a Air Brush kind of guy. The only Rattle cans I use are Tamiya Primer Sealer for super small jobs that using a AB just doesn't make much sense time wise.
I would certainly apply a min of two tack coats, and a few wet coats. My concern is that there's such a fine line between not enough clear for a smooth wet coat, and too much clear from the rattle can causing Orange Peel.
Joel
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Post by Ben_B on Jul 31, 2020 7:42:52 GMT -8
Oops! I just sat down to check my email and realized I'd forgotten to paint the black window trim around the side windows. I should add the antenna farm to the roof, too. I'll post a final photo or two once I get around to doing it, and that should close out this build.
Patrick, I wouldn't apply any kind of lacquer-based or enamel-based clear coat over clear parts. They will attack the plastic and craze it. Like Mike says, use whatever they're calling Future these days if you need to apply some kind of clear sealer to clear parts. Any time I paint a clear part, like the black window trim found on most modern cars, I use acrylics, which don't attack the clear plastic. That way, any paint that seeps under the mask can be removed with a toothpick. Major screw-ups can be fixed by removing everything with Windex. If I need to apply an exterior color to a clear part, like the frames of an airplane canopy, I'll dip the canopy in Future and let it sit for a couple of days, then mask and paint with the top coat. The Future isn't bothered by lacquer or enamel paint. That way, any leakage or major screw-ups can be removed with a toothpick or Windex bath without having to worry that the hotter paint has crazed the plastic.
I gave up on rattle cans years ago. I see a lot of people getting great results with them, but I never could, even with Tamiya's very forgiving paints. Even a cheap airbrush will give better control over how much paint is applied and where it goes.
Ben
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Post by Joel_W on Jul 31, 2020 8:52:53 GMT -8
Patrick,
I completely agree with Ben's procedures for Clear coat on clear parts. Personally, I almost never clear coat the rubber gaskets for all the glass, and as for the sun visor I just add the decal, and that's it, just don't want to take a chance on damaging the glass.
Joel
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Post by pnance26 on Jul 31, 2020 10:47:22 GMT -8
Well, oops then because I have already attached the windscreen and the headlamp covers... I guess I could mask them but I am afraid I'd destroy another decal. I guess the decals will remain a matte finish.
I don't care really as I am the only who will see it at this point.
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Post by Chris K. Hale on Aug 1, 2020 7:29:34 GMT -8
I have been using the #1834 Ultra Clear from Testors on all my clear parts ,right out of the can, windows in particular come out very nice. The Testors has a specific UV protectant in it that gives the clear parts a slight Blue tint more like what you see on newer 1 to 1 cars these days. I of course tested it on several different kit manufactures clear parts with no hazing, crazing or damage in fact it helps fill micro sized scratches and gives a nice smooth authentic look, I usually end up polishing most clear (windows) anyway due to poor protection from the kit maker.. Just my experience, I havent tried the Tamiya TS-13 or any other clear because the results from the Testors has been so good. Chris
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Post by Ben_B on Aug 1, 2020 9:21:38 GMT -8
I use TS-13 on my cars with good results. Tamiya is almost idiot-proof, which is what I need!
Patrick, since you’ve already installed and decalled (how the hell do you spell that?!) the clear parts, you might be about to use a foam brush and apply Future as your clear coat. There’s a guy in our local club that gets stunning results doing this. He doesn’t even polish anything! You could work around the clear parts and just target the painted areas or apply the clear over everything without having to worry about it attacking the clear plastic. It washes off with Wndex if there’s a problem.
Ben
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Post by tatocorvette on Aug 16, 2020 15:08:24 GMT -8
That fluorescent yellow looks GREAT! So does the rest of the model. Great job!
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Post by Ben_B on Aug 20, 2020 10:08:31 GMT -8
I knew somebody would release some silk screened decals for this car as soon as I finished mine!  LINKBen |
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Post by Joel_W on Sept 7, 2020 6:59:36 GMT -8
Ben, Isn't that always the case?  I ordered decals from Indy Cal for the 2018 Kohr Scudo Mustang Drivers: Kyle Marcelli, Nate Stacy as it's basically a Red bodied car, and pretty different from the paint schemes out there. Joel   |
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