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Post by pnance26 on Jan 31, 2021 20:37:49 GMT -8
Patrick, Just checked Mike's link, and after several years of working on his paint chips, he's still got more no chip colors then chip colors. Pretty hard to buy paints from him without 1st emailing him to find out if he has the colors your interested in. Joel Mike? At MCW? I’m not sure to whom you refer? I’m thinking I’m going to buy a new compressor, water trap, and regulator Wednesday. |
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Post by Joel_W on Feb 1, 2021 6:24:05 GMT -8
Patrick, I thought that the owner of MCW paints name was Mike. I could be wrong as it's been a few years since I ordered any paints from them. Like I said, the online catalog is still under construction with no paint chips. As for a new compressor, i bought mine several years ago the duel regulator Iwata quiet compressor. This way I have both of my AB's always connected and ready to go. It does have a 1 gallon air tank so that it isn't running whenever I'm painting. From what i understand nearly all of these compressors are by Sparmax with just a change of label. If I had to do it again , I'd save a good $100 plus, and get the single regulator model directly from a Sparmax dealer. the Iwata labels peal right off. Joel  |
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Post by pnance26 on Feb 3, 2021 7:31:49 GMT -8
I am averaging maybe 2 hours a week on this project which is good and frustrating at the same time. And you thought the pipes on a Ferrari 312T were confusing!  Here are the kit supplied exhausts. I think the metal is much better.  KA upgrade alternator and main pulleys in place...  Rear exhaust trays in place and half the spark plug wires done...  And some big water hoses... those clamps are really fun!  Big lesson learned... NEVER APPLY MOLOTOW CHROME UNTIL YOU ASSURED YOU HAVE AT LEAST 2 YEARS TO LET IT CURE. I have completely bollocksed up the valve covers and since they are glued down already... I will be able to sand them down but I'm not going near them again until they are in the car and not to be touched. Complete fail! Don't look too closely. I knew that airbrushed it took a long time to cure but I didn't have this trouble with small areas. Maybe it is the temperature. By the way, you can add another $100 to the build for two bottles of MCW White 2001 and some MENG hex nuts. Oh well... |
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Post by 4wheels on Feb 3, 2021 8:24:41 GMT -8
Patrick - Your right, the metal pipes do look better! Pulleys and alternator look really nice, too, but aren't they going to be kind of hard to see in the finished engine bay? Be glad for your two hours of weekly progress, I can't seem to find 15 minutes anymore!
I, too, have had trouble with Molotow's durability. Does anyone have any suggestions? Can you clear coat over it? Or would time in a dehydrator help cure it?
Brian
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Post by pnance26 on Feb 3, 2021 8:37:07 GMT -8
Patrick - Your right, the metal pipes do look better! Pulleys and alternator look really nice, too, but aren't they going to be kind of hard to see in the finished engine bay? Be glad for your two hours of weekly progress, I can't seem to find 15 minutes anymore! I, too, have had trouble with Molotow's durability. Does anyone have any suggestions? Can you clear coat over it? Or would time in a dehydrator help cure it? Brian Yes, the pulleys and alternator will be hard to see but you and I know they are there! LOL! So much better looking than the kit supplied part! Now to find something suitable for the belt! Glad to know I am not the only one! Those should have been the two things I didn't dechrome... they would have looked just fine. Oh well... Sorry about the time management! I may (and I say may) try to bring the engine, some superglue and one of my vision assistance aids to work to place some MENG hex nuts since I am working 7 of the next 9 days with single days off on Saturday and Monday! I don't get two off in a row until 12/13 and 19/20. Kind of screwed up schedule but oh well... I'm essential! At least I have a job! |
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Post by girchygirchy on Feb 3, 2021 11:43:59 GMT -8
If anyone is interested in a PDF of the racing colors available from MCW, I have it downloaded or you can get it here... mcwfinishes.com/ Then look under the "More tab" for racing colors reference. I will be using their colors for the first time. They are true automotive colors and go on very differently. Are you doing the red #3 car? From what I could find earlier, the '66 cars were painted '66 Mustang colors, which would be Signal Flare Red.
Edit, saw your decals, guess you're doing the Arcadian Blue #1 and the red's for the scallops.
As an aside, how'd your body fit OOTB? I glanced at mine and the rear hatch seems quite spread apart at the lower edges. Sigh.
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Post by pnance26 on Feb 3, 2021 13:49:20 GMT -8
(Are you doing the red #3 car? From what I could find earlier, the '66 cars were painted '66 Mustang colors, which would be Signal Flare Red. Edit, saw your decals, guess you're doing the Arcadian Blue #1 and the red's for the scallops. www.onlymustangfords.com/1966-mustang-paint-colors.htmlAs an aside, how'd your body fit OOTB? I glanced at mine and the rear hatch seems quite spread apart at the lower edges. Sigh.) You are correct after looking at the decals... I am doing the #1 which is Acadian Blue and I am going to use Vermillion Red for the red which is a little more neon. If you go back to the beginning of this, we all had quite a description of which red is the "correct" red. MCW has told me that I need to lay down some white underneath the vermillion (not white primer but white paint). This will make the vermillion "pop". I put a link to a build log from a guy over in England who detailed the fit problems with the "clamshell" back as well as the doors and the ride height. The kit has the car standing a little too high and Henry also details where the doors need to be shaved and how to deal with the rear piece. It might not make a difference if you display the car with the front and rear clamshells open. Don't be frustrated. This too will pass! Hey did you notice inside the scoops on the rear that they are solid? Those need to be opened up as they would be on the real car as well as the openings under the two rear deck scoops and the "bubble" on the top of the left door. The MENG kit does have that part of it correct but little else. Also you getting corrected tires or staying with the kit tires? |
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Post by Joel_W on Feb 3, 2021 14:28:42 GMT -8
Patrick,
Agreed that the metal exhaust pipes look so much better.
I've never used Molotow Chrome or any of their color pens because they're enamel, which takes forever to dry and cure in the best of conditions. the colder the air temp, the longer it takes for Enamel paints to dry and cure. Humidity also effects drying time. The lower the humidity, the quicker the drying time will be, but air temp is the main issue.
Joel
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Post by 4wheels on Feb 3, 2021 14:56:19 GMT -8
I thought Molotow Chrome is an ink product?
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Post by pnance26 on Feb 3, 2021 15:11:44 GMT -8
Patrick, Agreed that the metal exhaust pipes look so much better. I've never used Molotow Chrome or any of their color pens because they're enamel, which takes forever to dry and cure in the best of conditions. the colder the air temp, the longer it takes for Enamel paints to dry and cure. Humidity also effects drying time. The lower the humidity, the quicker the drying time will be, but air temp is the main issue. Joel I had no idea they were enamels. According to their site, they are specially pigmented inks. No mention of enamel anywhere. www.molotow.com/en/applications/marker-applications/liquid-chrome/ |
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Post by Joel_W on Feb 3, 2021 16:07:38 GMT -8
Sorry guys, I was under the impression that they were enamel based as they take so darn long to dry. inks dry pretty quickly, so now their drying issues really doesn't make much sense to me.
joel
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Post by Chris K. Hale on Feb 3, 2021 16:59:25 GMT -8
A small correction, the 66 had a single Holley 4Barrel carb not Weber carb, later years where allowed 4 Webbers on the small block but not Legal on the 427 cid. Those ran a single 4bbl or Two 4bbl. Holley Carbs. The Alan Mann 1968 car qualified with 4 Weber's on the 427 cid, but was deemed illegal and switched to a Single Holley for the race, having to re-qualify on the week end before the race. . The rules were a bit odd when it came to induction on specific engine displacements but that is the FIA for Ya.. Chris
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Post by pnance26 on Feb 3, 2021 17:37:20 GMT -8
That would have been me saying Weber... and I sit corrected! Holley it is!
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Post by clowncar on Feb 3, 2021 18:00:28 GMT -8
Two things:
That weird carburetor.
This entire thread.
Oh. My. Goodness.
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Post by martinb on Feb 3, 2021 19:50:43 GMT -8
My slow, ponderous, progress so far... Made a start on the distributor, ONE spark plug/lead, and added some basic details to the block before priming...  |
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