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Post by Joel_W on Jan 27, 2021 16:37:32 GMT -8
Alcad2 is Lacquer based, hence the horrid odor. As with all lacquers, I mix, pour, air brush, and clean my air brush in my paint booth with the exhaust fan running from start to finish. I also wear a respirator throughout the entire process.
Alcad2 comes pre-thinned so just follow the directions, which has a suggested 12 psi, which is what I use.
As for what to clean your air brush with, cheap store Lacquer Thinner.
Joel
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Post by mustang1989 on Jan 28, 2021 7:49:16 GMT -8
Man have I been missing out our WHAT?? This looks great so far!!!
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Post by pnance26 on Jan 28, 2021 7:56:17 GMT -8
Alcad2 is Lacquer based, hence the horrid odor. As with all lacquers, I mix, pour, air brush, and clean my air brush in my paint booth with the exhaust fan running from start to finish. I also wear a respirator throughout the entire process. Alcad2 comes pre-thinned so just follow the directions, which has a suggested 12 psi, which is what I use. As for what to clean your air brush with, cheap store Lacquer Thinner. Joel Okay, so added $70 to the list for Alclad products. By the way, if you are out here in Southern California, stop by the Burbank House of Hobbies. They are a great brick and mortar store with lots of stock. But the real kudos go to the online crew. I placed my order yesterday and within two hours, it was pulled, packed, shipped and email sent. That’s customer service! It is "out for delivery" today. That is a 24 hour turnaround from House of Hobbies. Can't beat that! |
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Post by eliminatormach1 on Jan 28, 2021 11:11:33 GMT -8
I ordered from Burbank House of Hobbies through Ebay once. I agree, great service. From west coast to east coast in under a week.
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Post by Joel_W on Jan 28, 2021 13:38:30 GMT -8
Gotta check them out. Always looking for good solid USA car modeling resources.
Joel
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Post by pnance26 on Jan 28, 2021 15:13:36 GMT -8
A little time today in a very cold workspace. Ambient air temp outside is about 45 and my poor little space heater was just laboring. The kit comes with trays to hold the exhaust "tubes"... this is how the kit part looks... pretty clunky.  PE part from KA...  Curve needs to be matching, so, there are alignment holes, right?  Use the plastic exhaust tube with the kit part as a "buck" and voila! Perfect curve!    Got one side with wires in place on the block. Had rethink how the boots attached to the distributor. But it is the first time around that is hard! Now, I know!   You can also see the wired (well, I'm sure I won't be using that bare wire. That was just to place the attachment nuts. I have some 1/25th wire) starter motor as well... so not being a car guy in real life... where does the wire on the starter get connected into the system? The top of the distributor? Well that's it until Monday! Back to work for three days!!! Your comments are always welcome. |
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Post by Joel_W on Jan 29, 2021 5:12:39 GMT -8
Patrick,
From what I remember of the good old days, on top of the starter is the starter solenoid. The positive wire from the battery or fuse box goes directly to the solenoid. the negative (black wire) is the ground wire and should attach to the a main grounding point on the chassis/frame.
Those exhaust brackets once shaped look fantastic.
joel
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Post by girchygirchy on Jan 29, 2021 5:12:51 GMT -8
Just curious, which did you order? There's this from TDR, I'd be surprised if it had the wrong stuff given that it's designed specifically for this model. BTW, mine's been shipped and should arrive on Monday. While I don't have this kit yet for comparison purposes, I can take and post some pictures of it. well isn't that interesting... I didn't find that listing! Looks like another $35! Actually, I probably wont order it as I already have the distributor, and the pulley wheels come as part of the KA upgrade. First impressions are good - there's a lot of detail in the items. However, since they're FDM rather than SLA, the parts have stepped edges rather than smooth curves, so some work will be needed to remove those. I doubt primer would be adequate to cover, so it'll need some sanding or maybe some light blasting. It came with an intake manifold, carb, distributor, alternator body/pulley/fan/brackets, other pulleys, breathers, oil filter, and a couple of things I didn't recognize. Detail is good on everything (look at the tiny holes on what I assume is the water pump pulley!), just be careful...my dumba$$ managed to break a corner off the intake after dropping it onto the concrete floor (twice...guess I didn't learn my lesson the first time!), so keep in mind the parts are brittle.
BTW, they also have a 'short block' available. If it came with a trans, I'd be tempted.
As an aside, you were asking about shipping from Australia to the US...I ordered my KA trans kit for this from BNA on 1/12 and it showed up yesterday...just a little over two weeks, not bad. Probably won't be any fees since it shipped via normal AU/US Post, other than the Use Tax you're supposed to pay to your state each year.
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Post by pnance26 on Jan 29, 2021 6:09:55 GMT -8
Good luck cutting away the existing manifold... I figured I would screw it somehow so I just went with box stock. If you can see the manifold under all the other shit going on, well, I guess you could apply for your "Official GT40MkII Rivet Counter" certification! LOL!
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Post by Joel_W on Jan 29, 2021 8:22:52 GMT -8
Patrick,
I was kind of thinking along those same lines. When does the amount of added detail no longer add to the overall visual presentation of the engine/trans compartment? Being a smaller scale modeler, I do look at this with a different pair of eyes ( OK eye, as I only see out of one these days).
Joel
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Post by tartan54 on Jan 30, 2021 7:19:54 GMT -8
The positive wire from the battery or fuse box goes directly to the solenoid. the negative (black wire) is the ground wire and should attach to the a main grounding point on the chassis/frame.
Joel/Patrick, there's going to be a switch in the live line somewhere ie dashboard, or the motor would be permanently live so the live wire needs to be joining in the loom going forward to the cockpit or probably through a relay on the fuseboard to lower the load on the switch.
girchgirchy, thanks for the review on the TDR parts, mine are on their way from the Netherlands (Shapeways print there for Europe).
Good work on the etch Patrick.
Dave
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Post by 4wheels on Jan 30, 2021 8:30:26 GMT -8
Just remember, Ford used those remote solenoids on most, if not all, of their street vehicles. I know the NASCAR guys used them, so maybe the GT40 used one as well. Just another thing to look for pics of!
Brian
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Post by pnance26 on Jan 30, 2021 9:01:31 GMT -8
The positive wire from the battery or fuse box goes directly to the solenoid. the negative (black wire) is the ground wire and should attach to the a main grounding point on the chassis/frame.Joel/Patrick, there's going to be a switch in the live line somewhere ie dashboard, or the motor would be permanently live so the live wire needs to be joining in the loom going forward to the cockpit or probably through a relay on the fuseboard to lower the load on the switch. girchgirchy, thanks for the review on the TDR parts, mine are on their way from the Netherlands (Shapeways print there for Europe). Good work on the etch Patrick. Dave I am kind of concerned about the amount of tension from the twin springs maybe bending the "wings" upwards on the exhaust trays... I may try a bead of superglue on the underside just to reinforce the joint. Don't think that sounds unreasonable. If you were to look at the underside, it would just look like a weld line. Thoughts anyone? Dave. As for the wiring from the starter, it is just going to "disappear" as the battery box goes way up front to the footwell of the left side of the cockpit and I am not interested in building a "replica". Just want the appearance of a real car... So next steps are to do the Alclad on the exhausts and then paint the main "tub/frame". I am not wishing for an early spring but it sure gets cold out in the garage even with a space heater. I may have to buy a new, better model. Thanks for the input. |
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Post by pnance26 on Jan 30, 2021 9:03:16 GMT -8
Just remember, Ford used those remote solenoids on most, if not all, of their street vehicles. I know the NASCAR guys used them, so maybe the GT40 used one as well. Just another thing to look for pics of! Brian Brian, I have not a clue about what a "remote solenoid" would even look like! As I explained to Dave, the red wire going forward, ostensibly to the battery, will just "disappear" as it travels forward. |
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Post by Joel_W on Jan 30, 2021 9:29:07 GMT -8
Patrick,
My garage has been in the low 20s with this super cold snap, so even going out to the trash cans is a choir I don't relish this time of the year. My modeling/computer room is one of the spare bedrooms and is fully temp/humidity controlled as is the rest of the house. The more I hear of what so many of you guys go through, the more I'm thankful that my wife has never made a single issue of me taking over one of the spare bedrooms even when we have a finished basement. Heat by oil/electric heaters (2) and no A/C, so I hated it when I was down there for many years till my son wanted to move down there.
joel
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