jimc7
Qualifier
Posts: 51
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Post by jimc7 on Jan 24, 2021 15:54:45 GMT -8
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Post by pnance26 on Jan 25, 2021 8:18:16 GMT -8
How long does shipping from AU take to the states? And VAT etc? I am wondering if I really want to go this far. I mean it would be cool and all but... I am already so heavily invested in this project (over $1100 so far...) And if I could get them from a US vendor, it would be so much faster. Hmmm... so many things to ponder when all I really want to do is go home. I had to overnight at work because of snow closure on highways to get home. I really didn't mind since I had to be here today anyway... but I start my three days off tomorrow and I don't want to spend it in some place other than home! So, now I have to decide how far I want to go with nut heads, etc.
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Post by chrissmith on Jan 25, 2021 13:46:16 GMT -8
Wow Patrick I thought I spent too much on the Ferrari. When you go big, you went huge.. so why stop 😁 get those nuts and bolts. If I remember shipping from Australia took about a month and there wasn’t an added fee for the parts ordered. But it’s been about a year since I ordered from BNA. Things could have changed since Covid.
Would like to see more progress and less talky talky🤣🤣
Oh yeah I forgot, MFH has your next kit 😆😆😆
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Post by pnance26 on Jan 25, 2021 14:02:24 GMT -8
Wow Patrick I thought I spent too much on the Ferrari. When you go big, you went huge.. so why stop 😁 get those nuts and bolts. If I remember shipping from Australia took about a month and there wasn’t an added fee for the parts ordered. But it’s been about a year since I ordered from BNA. Things could have changed since Covid. Would like to see more progress and less talky talky🤣🤣 Oh yeah I forgot, MFH has your next kit 😆😆😆 Yeah well that talky talky [part is only because I didn't win the PowerBall or Mega Millions and I have to work. Plus, it is cold out in my workshop and takes about 90 minutes to get warm enough for the paint and glue to hold. We got 5"of snow last night and I hope I can get home! MFH! HAH! Right now! Besides you know how things take time! You of all people, Chris Smith!
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Post by chrissmith on Jan 25, 2021 16:38:11 GMT -8
Wow Patrick I thought I spent too much on the Ferrari. When you go big, you went huge.. so why stop 😁 get those nuts and bolts. If I remember shipping from Australia took about a month and there wasn’t an added fee for the parts ordered. But it’s been about a year since I ordered from BNA. Things could have changed since Covid. Would like to see more progress and less talky talky🤣🤣 Oh yeah I forgot, MFH has your next kit 😆😆😆 Yeah well that talky talky [part is only because I didn't win the PowerBall or Mega Millions and I have to work. Plus, it is cold out in my workshop and takes about 90 minutes to get warm enough for the paint and glue to hold. We got 5"of snow last night and I hope I can get home! MFH! HAH! Right now! Besides you know how things take time! You of all people, Chris Smith! Well true!!
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Post by pnance26 on Jan 26, 2021 6:26:11 GMT -8
Not many period pics of the MkII, this is the best I could find, at least today! Looks to be period: Actually it’s not the 1966 LeMans engine as that only had a single carb!
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Post by Joel_W on Jan 26, 2021 8:06:01 GMT -8
Patrick, I nearly spilled my coffee all over my keyboard when I read that so far you're into your build for over $1,100. I guess that all of the details, etc. just really adds up. To my way of thinking it's money well spent for someone like yourself who has the skill sets needed to bring all of those AM parts together to create the large scale replicas that you do.
Just getting back to your questions about how to paint those exhaust headers like they're in the pics, what have you decided is your paint procedures?
Joel
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Post by pnance26 on Jan 26, 2021 8:34:31 GMT -8
Patrick, I nearly spilt my coffee all over my keyboard when I read that so far you're into your build for over $1,100. I guess that all of the details, etc. just really adds up. To my way of thinking it's money well spent for someone like yourself who has the skill sets needed to bring all of those AM parts together to create the large scale replicas that you do. Just getting back to your questions about how to paint those exhaust headers like they're in the pics, what have you decided is your paint procedures? Joel I haven’t yet, Joel. I need to decide as they are part of the first three steps. My main issue today is just getting home so I can look at them! We got about 12” of snow and there are exactly two ways in and out of Tehachapi and they are both closed! As far as costs- Kit, KA upgrade, Tire Upgrade- $475 IndyCals- $55 MCW Paints- $75 Two books- $150 MicroMark Tools- $125 RB Motion- $100 Tamiya Paints- $45 Supplies (glue, solder, wires)- $100 That’s $1125... and I just ordered some hex nuts etc. So, I think I said it before (and I thought that MFH Ferrari 156 Dino Sharknose at $795 was out of reach... but that’s all in one whack! I would have spent another $250 on tools and paint so it’s a wash) This kit will either A) go so well, I’ll never want to build another kit or B) go so badly, I’ll never want to build another kit.
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Post by Joel_W on Jan 26, 2021 8:50:15 GMT -8
Patrick, As I said before, you will build another kit no matter what the out come of the GT40 is. It's in your blood. Believe me, I only know that all to well.
Joel
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Post by pnance26 on Jan 27, 2021 9:42:20 GMT -8
I am considering using Alclad-411 red metal on the GT40MKII exhausts.
On their website, there are instructions for prep for all kinds of Alclad products... but not the red.
Any hints? I’ve never used Alclad.
What’s the best airbrush cleaner for Alclad?
Thanks in advance.
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Post by Joel_W on Jan 27, 2021 12:26:34 GMT -8
Patrick, I've never used the Red Metal, but I use about 6 of the Alcad2 Metallics and love them. Prep work is the same for all of them. Any and all scratches, glitches, issues with the plastic will show through. If you need to use putty, use CA Gel as it's not porous. The surface has to be primed. Gloss Black for a high shine, Semi Gloss Black for less of a shine, and finally Matt Black for that worn look. 9 out of 10 times I use Gloss Black. My weapon of choice is either Tamiya X-1 Gloss Black or Mr. Color Gloss Black. Both I thin 2 parts paint to 3 parts Mr Leveler #400 Thinner.
I've also tried gloss Dark Gray which works but the depth of the shine is much less.
Joel
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Post by arcticwolf on Jan 27, 2021 14:58:33 GMT -8
I am considering using Alclad-411 red metal on the GT40MKII exhausts. On their website, there are instructions for prep for all kinds of Alclad products... but not the red. Any hints? I’ve never used Alclad. What’s the best airbrush cleaner for Alclad? Thanks in advance. You'll get a laugh out of this one. I sometimes use Alclad (not often, the stuff will kill you) and I don't have an airbrush.
Here's how: Pour the Alclad into a bowl. Dip the part in it and let the excess drip off. Pour the Alclad back in the bottle.
It works like a charm.
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Post by pnance26 on Jan 27, 2021 15:25:04 GMT -8
Patrick, I've never used the Red Metal, but I use about 6 of the Alcad2 Metallics and love them. Prep work is the same for all of them. Any and all scratches, glitches, issues with the plastic will show through. If you need to use putty, use CA Gel as it's not porous. The surface has to be primed. Gloss Black for a high shine, Semi Gloss Black for less of a shine, and finally Matt Black for that worn look. 9 out of 10 times I use Gloss Black. My weapon of choice is either Tamiya X-1 Gloss Black or Mr. Color Gloss Black. Both I thin 2 parts paint to 3 parts Mr Leveler #400 Thinner. I've also tried gloss Dark Gray which works but the depth of the shine is much less. Joel I'm talking with Tony at Alclad and sent him photos to get his opinion on how to handle this. I spent an hour today out in the shop, doing a little painting and doing one PE exhaust tube holder. Found a great way to make it exact! I will explain with photos tomorrow!
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Post by pnance26 on Jan 27, 2021 15:26:09 GMT -8
I am considering using Alclad-411 red metal on the GT40MKII exhausts. On their website, there are instructions for prep for all kinds of Alclad products... but not the red. Any hints? I’ve never used Alclad. What’s the best airbrush cleaner for Alclad? Thanks in advance. You'll get a laugh out of this one. I sometimes use Alclad (not often, the stuff will kill you) and I don't have an airbrush.
Here's how: Pour the Alclad into a bowl. Dip the part in it and let the excess drip off. Pour the Alclad back in the bottle.
It works like a charm. I'm not laughing Paul! Sounds like it works! Do you do the primer and the black base?
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Post by arcticwolf on Jan 27, 2021 15:42:21 GMT -8
You'll get a laugh out of this one. I sometimes use Alclad (not often, the stuff will kill you) and I don't have an airbrush.
Here's how: Pour the Alclad into a bowl. Dip the part in it and let the excess drip off. Pour the Alclad back in the bottle.
It works like a charm. I'm not laughing Paul! Sounds like it works! Do you do the primer and the black base? I've always sprayed it silver first, no real reason other than it's shiny, never thought of black. Have to try that!
Some of their colours, the fumes are horrible so I mostly avoid the stuff, so make sure the fans are working! It's probably even worse if you spray it!
Good luck mon ami.
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