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Post by martinb on Feb 20, 2021 4:56:27 GMT -8
Looking sharp Patrick, really liking those exhaust tips! One question though, would this engine have an oil fill tube since it had an oil tank? If it did have an oil fill tube you did a nice job on it and I'm going to borrow that idea! Get your Saturday chores done quick so you can get back to this and post more pics. I didn’t think that through eh? But the oil tank is all the way in the front right? Over the spare tire? So that begs a whole new question. But that tube can always be sealed right? So much of this is just not thinking... I think little teeny exhaust connectors is making me crazy! My knowledge of the FE engine is limited, but I think that pipe is an oil breather, not filler, so is perfectly reasonable to add. May possibly not be correct for a racing model engine with dry sump, as I think they would return that oil back to the oil tank also. I'm basing my opinion and my model's engine on this image: It seems to tick many of the boxes about what it would have looked like and what I want mine to look like (carburettor arrangement, correct intake, oil tank, exhaust colouring etc) and as you can see where I've highlighted; there is a hose where I've also seen oil breather tubes.
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Post by Joel_W on Feb 20, 2021 7:00:27 GMT -8
Patrick, Then engine & distributor look darn good to me. As for the oil filler pipe, that's an excellent question since it's oil tank is on the other side of the engine. Just not sure how adding oil through the filler tube would work as the pipe has to go directly to the tank not the engine.
The exhaust pipe is a major step in the right direction. Can you tone down the intensity of the decolorization with Steel Wool?
I'm curious to what issues you had with the MCW paints. I've used them a long time ago, and from my rapidly fading memory, they're pre-thinned auto lacquers. That's basically the same as Gravity, Zero, Scalefinishes, and Splash paints. Gravity & Scalefinishes are my to go paints. What I've found works best for air brushing them is to set the air regulator so that the flow rate is approx 1 Bar. For me that's 15-18 psi and just make easy, consistent lite passes letting each coat gas off for 3-5 min. Then the final few coats I go slower so I lay down more paint but still easy consistent passes. To heavy of coats just creates more rubbing and polishing out. Believe me I only know that all to well.
joel
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Post by pnance26 on Feb 20, 2021 18:05:25 GMT -8
Got some more time in today... there is a BIG lesson to be learned from this step... DO NOT INSTALL THE STARTER MOTOR, WHATEVER IT IS, ON THE VIEWER'S LEFT OF THE ENGINE UNTIL YOU INSTALL THE PIPING. If you do it backwards, the pipes don't fit around the KA upgrade white metal pieces. You still have to shoe horn them in! Just a warning. To show you how small the exhaust pipe connectors are to the collectors... I used a dime for perspective... And here they are installed on the collectors And the PE added to the exhaust pipes... 4 per side back to back... I apologize for the lack of light and poor photography. It was much brighter in my shop! I am going to figure out how to mount my photo lights semi-permanently. All comments are welcome!
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Post by pnance26 on Feb 21, 2021 6:35:54 GMT -8
I promise first thing Thursday is to do better photos of engine. Biggest thing now is to get the exhaust pipes painted so they can be in place, then build the two tubes that will connect left and right to the water lines I installed yesterday...
On to smaller and better!
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Post by Joel_W on Feb 21, 2021 7:23:51 GMT -8
Patrick, I can't believe that those connectors are actually that small, and that you can successfully install them. The two exhaust pipes really look the part for sure.
Joel
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jimc7
Qualifier
Posts: 51
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Post by jimc7 on Feb 21, 2021 10:31:37 GMT -8
Very nice work Patrick, those ARE some tiny parts! Happy to see that you found some time this weekend to get more accomplished.
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Post by 65slotcar on Feb 21, 2021 11:01:32 GMT -8
nice details and progress . i'm waiting on parts to start mine and just started Chaparral project.
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Post by pnance26 on Feb 21, 2021 11:11:41 GMT -8
It cost a bit more than the "homemade" version but having a "PE bender assist device" is invaluable along with a pinpoint CA glue applicator. And yes those were some tiny parts. I also bought an aluminum "tin" system with lids that are clear to help me wrangle all this stuff. I bend them all and them put them into a tin until I need them.
Hard to fathom that you can spend over an hour cutting, bending, and then applying 8 little parts! It's insane like Jim says when you won't even see these parts. However, a lot of the KA pieces will be seen. I am actually enjoying this, as hard as this is to believe. And this level of model building is peanuts to some.
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Post by 4wheels on Feb 21, 2021 11:49:20 GMT -8
I'm pretty sure that is an oil fill tube in martinb's pic. Doesn't look big/thick enough to be a breather cap. Also, the engine doesn't pump oil unless it's running. If you just filled the tank, the engine would have no oil in it on initial start-up. No way is the oil going to flow thru all the lines from the tank, thru filters and coolers, to fill the engine. No caps on the valve covers, so a fill tube makes sense.
Patrick, I think the "starter" you keep referring to is actually the alternator! That said, I have no idea where the starter actually is. The Trumpeter kit has little doo-dads on each side of the transmission that look kind of like the trans mounted starter the F1 guys used for years on their Hewland transaxles, but they both have oil lines going to and from them, so I don't know! No other Ford GT, MkIV, or J-car kit that I have has an identifiable starter. I know they had to be self-starting, I just don't know how!
In looking for pics of starters, I noticed a neat little detail in the infamous page 129 photo in the Holman-Moody book: a neat little dipstick on side of the the transmission! Gotta have that!
Brian
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Post by 4wheels on Feb 21, 2021 12:08:51 GMT -8
Found this, courtesy of Road & Track: Clearly shows a starter.
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Post by pnance26 on Feb 21, 2021 13:03:26 GMT -8
I'm pretty sure that is an oil fill tube in martinb's pic. Doesn't look big/thick enough to be a breather cap. Also, the engine doesn't pump oil unless it's running. If you just filled the tank, the engine would have no oil in it on initial start-up. No way is the oil going to flow thru all the lines from the tank, thru filters and coolers, to fill the engine. No caps on the valve covers, so a fill tube makes sense. Patrick, I think the "starter" you keep referring to is actually the alternator! That said, I have no idea where the starter actually is. The Trumpeter kit has little doo-dads on each side of the transmission that look kind of like the trans mounted starter the F1 guys used for years on their Hewland transaxles, but they both have oil lines going to and from them, so I don't know! No other Ford GT, MkIV, or J-car kit that I have has an identifiable starter. I know they had to be self-starting, I just don't know how! In looking for pics of starters, I noticed a neat little detail in the infamous page 129 photo in the Holman-Moody book: a neat little dipstick on side of the the transmission! Gotta have that! Brian You are correct. It is the alternator. Some reason, I had a brain fart right there.
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Post by pnance26 on Feb 21, 2021 13:05:15 GMT -8
"In looking for pics of starters, I noticed a neat little detail in the infamous page 129 photo in the Holman-Moody book: a neat little dipstick on side of the the transmission! Gotta have that!
Brian"
Sure I do! Will have to look on 129. Got that book!
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Post by martinb on Feb 21, 2021 14:10:39 GMT -8
Can someone please explain how the KA alternator/generator connects to the block!? After heeding the advice about leaving it until the water pipes are connected, I'm unsure how it attaches. Do you simply glue the two forks to the block? The item is quite heavy, so I cannot see that being enough to hold it in place.
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Post by 4wheels on Feb 21, 2021 14:34:38 GMT -8
In "real life", the upper alternator bracket would bolt to two spots on the water pump, the alternator end would have a bolt thru the bracket, alternator, and then into a threaded hole in the block or head. The lower bracket would bolt to one spot on the water pump and would have a slot to bolt to the lower alternator ear and provide belt adjustment.
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jimc7
Qualifier
Posts: 51
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Post by jimc7 on Feb 21, 2021 15:02:19 GMT -8
Can someone please explain how the KA alternator/generator connects to the block!? After heeding the advice about leaving it until the water pipes are connected, I'm unsure how it attaches. Do you simply glue the two forks to the block? The item is quite heavy, so I cannot see that being enough to hold it in place. Once I got the location in between the water lines and the pulleys lined up I drilled a hole in the block for the front pin, the rear pin rests against the housing. It's in there nice and sturdy.
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