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Post by Joel_W on May 10, 2021 13:16:40 GMT -8
Johnny, Interesting method to reshape the wheel well. Back in my aircraft days I tried to reshape the wheel wells on a 1/32 scale F4F-3 Wildcat. I glued plastic strip to the bottom of the wells and sanded to shape. But since there was so little surface area for the glue to do it's thing, I was forever regluing. Your method would certainly have solved that issue for me.
joel
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Post by pnance26 on May 10, 2021 16:51:02 GMT -8
Are you building the MENG or the Trumpeter/Magnifier? And I have decided, that, even though I admire your work toward accuracy, it is not something I want to attempt. Just reshaping the doors scares me a bit and I know how badly I screwed up the wheel wells. I have traded for a second kit and am considering that Trumpeter has gotten in touch with a price for replacement of that single piece. But please, continue on with your great work! It is inspiring! I'm building the Magnifier, Patrick. I had a look at what you did with the rear arches tonight. Not sure what you did as I could only see the mock up with the wheel photo. Did you round out the top of the arch by sanding? Out of interest are Derek's resin tyres the same diameter as the kit ones? If they are slightly bigger it may give you some arch shape issues. If you could move the drive train back 1-2mm I think it would look balanced - guess you have to modify linkages, suspension mounts etc. I'd be looking at just adding a 2mm strip of plastic along the arch back edge and then reshaping the curve. Wouldn't be too tricky a job if you use material thicker than the kit part. This allows you to sand the front and back faces to match and blend the original part. It would also allow you to put a little rolled corner at the back edge of the arch. Have a look at the photo! Well, let's try to answer these questions in some kind of order... I don't know if Derek's tires are the same diameter. I do know they have a much less square shoulder to them as has been described. No, I used a Dremel which seems to be the issue. As far as moving the drive train, I think that ship has sailed for the moment... I am pretty much stuck where I am on this kit. I am getting another complete (without KA upgrades) kit from Canada and Trumpeter is sending my a new rear body work piece. So I have all kinds of options I think...
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johnny
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Post by johnny on May 11, 2021 0:13:51 GMT -8
I'm building the Magnifier, Patrick. I had a look at what you did with the rear arches tonight. Not sure what you did as I could only see the mock up with the wheel photo. Did you round out the top of the arch by sanding? Out of interest are Derek's resin tyres the same diameter as the kit ones? If they are slightly bigger it may give you some arch shape issues. If you could move the drive train back 1-2mm I think it would look balanced - guess you have to modify linkages, suspension mounts etc. I'd be looking at just adding a 2mm strip of plastic along the arch back edge and then reshaping the curve. Wouldn't be too tricky a job if you use material thicker than the kit part. This allows you to sand the front and back faces to match and blend the original part. It would also allow you to put a little rolled corner at the back edge of the arch. Have a look at the photo! Well, let's try to answer these questions in some kind of order... I don't know if Derek's tires are the same diameter. I do know they have a much less square shoulder to them as has been described. No, I used a Dremel which seems to be the issue. As far as moving the drive train, I think that ship has sailed for the moment... I am pretty much stuck where I am on this kit. I am getting another complete (without KA upgrades) kit from Canada and Trumpeter is sending my a new rear body work piece. So I have all kinds of options I think... Patrick, Good news on scoring another kit...you can't have too many of these puppies! For the first time in my life I bought two kits together as the Magnifiers were so cheap in the UK before Christmas. As you say, it gives you options now! Probably teaching granny to suck eggs (and please don't think I'm being patronising) but my method for reshaping the arch would have been finding a suitable cylindrical object just smaller than the diameter of the arch hole. I then cut wet and dry paper into 1" strips, wrap around and tape it to the cylinder. A large spray paint can would probably suit, size wise. You then gently rotate the can back and forth so the abrasive just makes contact with the arch edge. Because of size of the can's radius it stops you removing material in one area too easily. Hope this makes sense! Johnny
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Post by pnance26 on May 11, 2021 4:57:04 GMT -8
Makes perfect sense and well worth looking into! I would think that curtain rod dowel might work as well!
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Post by Joel_W on May 11, 2021 5:03:44 GMT -8
Now that's an interesting sanding method that I'm going to try. I've been making all sorts of sanding sticks but never thought of that method or reason why it works.
joel
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johnny
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Post by johnny on May 11, 2021 13:04:25 GMT -8
Cheers Guys! I'm always reticent about making suggestions on boards, just in case people think I'm being rude! Just remember, if going this route, sand by rotating the tool say 10 o'clock to 2 o'clock and back, rather than going in and out across the edge like you'd normally use a round file. The other advantage of finding something near the actual diameter is that you can focus on the gaps around the tool as you sand. If you only have say a 1mm gap you can spot quickly if anything looks like it's going wrong! I make loads of sanding sticks for all sorts of jobs. I came up with the idea of sticking wet and dry onto old scalpel/x-Acto blades. Just stick squares of abrasive on with double sided tape and then cut round the blade shape with another scalpel. Amazingly, even with a new, sharp blade they don't cut your fingers with the sand paper stuck on! They are really handy for flat sanding into tiny corners and edges. I make bigger ones using carpet knife blades too. Anyways, I just shot a very thin coat of white primer over my bodge and I'm happy with it. It's is a subtle tweak but worth it, IMHO! Can you even see the difference? Once I get all the little bodywork niggles out of the way I'l come back and smooth it properly. Johnny Attachments:
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Post by johnny on May 11, 2021 13:17:35 GMT -8
Moving round the the front now and this one is bugging me! Has anyone tweaked their way out of this? For me, the scuttle area on the kit falls away as the screen wraps round to the corners. From photos it looks like it shouldn't do this and blends into the profile of the door leading edge really neatly. I also have an issue with the front clip standing slightly proud of the scuttle when it should be absolutely level. I think the windscreen rubber is too big too. My plan is to add a thin plastic fillet on either side and blend it to the existing scuttle top surface. Then, using a very thin layer of plastic across the whole scuttle area. Hopefully, this will bring the height level with the front clip and half the thickness of the window rubber section. This should make the scuttle look deeper which is closer to the original cars. I'm thinking the front clip corner could do with added material too? Johnny Attachments:
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johnny
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Post by johnny on May 11, 2021 13:40:15 GMT -8
Hi Folks, I'm thinking of adding the upper ducting inside the rear clam. Hopefully, this will be the last of my major bodywork tweaking. Also, does everyone's inner clam part fit OK? Mine seems to have a +1mm gap all the way round! Finally. I have found a shot of how the duct enters the airbox area below the rear screen. I know it's a Holman Moody car, but the clams were the same (I think?) Seems to be just a square black hole with a mesh screen over the top. The third pic will hopefully help Patrick re: our discussion about that Y shape brake cooling tube under the clam. That front tube part is extra cooling from the upper duct! Trumpeter did actually include this on their part (inside the wheel arch inner.) Johnny
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Post by pnance26 on May 11, 2021 17:21:26 GMT -8
Actually, there were significant bodywork differences between the Holman-Moody and the Shelby GT40s. I am not sure about the ducting.
As far as the rear clam not fitting, look over in Henryk's build where he addresses that. Mine seems to fit okay.
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Post by Joel_W on May 12, 2021 4:08:39 GMT -8
Johnny, Personally, I wouldn't be to concerned about the rubber windscreen trim, in scale it looks just fine. I took a good look at your modified lower air scoop and it looks perfect. Careful final sanding is all that I see that is needed.
I'm already wondering Just how many of the corrections will be needed on the 1/24 scale Meng version. I do have the old Fujimi kits so I might just combine the two and see where it goes. In scale, a lot of what you guys are doing might not be needed as it would be so small and marginal. I guess only time will tell.
joel
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Post by pnance26 on May 12, 2021 4:56:46 GMT -8
Moving round the the front now and this one is bugging me! Has anyone tweaked their way out of this? For me, the scuttle area on the kit falls away as the screen wraps round to the corners. From photos it looks like it shouldn't do this and blends into the profile of the door leading edge really neatly. I also have an issue with the front clip standing slightly proud of the scuttle when it should be absolutely level. I think the windscreen rubber is too big too. My plan is to add a thin plastic fillet on either side and blend it to the existing scuttle top surface. Then, using a very thin layer of plastic across the whole scuttle area. Hopefully, this will bring the height level with the front clip and half the thickness of the window rubber section. This should make the scuttle look deeper which is closer to the original cars. I'm thinking the front clip corner could do with added material too? Johnny Ummm... what is a "scuttle"? (Not trying to sound stupid...)
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johnny
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Post by johnny on May 12, 2021 13:44:55 GMT -8
Patrick,
It's the bodywork between the hood and the windscreen. Not sure if there's an American term for it!
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johnny
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Post by johnny on May 19, 2021 15:28:03 GMT -8
Dabbling with Milliput tonight. New sculpting material for me, so still getting used to it as I only use it for bodywork tweaks, and no, it's not Paul Newman! Johnny Attachments:
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Post by martinb on May 21, 2021 5:33:09 GMT -8
Still on it! I like that. A lot.
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