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Post by 65slotcar on Dec 29, 2020 17:25:54 GMT -8
Yes, I have a Trumpeter kit, purchased as soon as they were originally released. Started it about 18 months ago, got tired of stripping so much chrome and put it away. Will get back to it someday, this thread might just get me going again! i soak chrome parts in bleach, takes it off within a day , then i just wash parts with warm soapy water.
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Post by arcticwolf on Dec 29, 2020 19:42:08 GMT -8
With all this talk I had to go and look. What's the complaint about the tires? Mine look perfectly fine. Is it the tread pattern you guys don't like?
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Post by 65slotcar on Dec 29, 2020 20:04:13 GMT -8
With all this talk I had to go and look. What's the complaint about the tires? Mine look perfectly fine. Is it the tread pattern you guys don't like? it's the square look of the kit tire more then tread pattern that i don't like so much. Icon tires have a more rounded look . Like others have said , wait for Icon tires to re-stock. e-bay seller is asking double the price. ( pic of Icon tires)
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Post by pnance26 on Dec 29, 2020 21:16:07 GMT -8
With all this talk I had to go and look. What's the complaint about the tires? Mine look perfectly fine. Is it the tread pattern you guys don't like? The foam inserts tell me they are too soft.
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Post by mustangrex on Dec 30, 2020 6:30:30 GMT -8
Saw the MENG kit on Hobbbyeasy.com and now the price is looking very tempting @ $232 plus shipping.
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Post by pnance26 on Dec 31, 2020 6:24:49 GMT -8
Much thanks to gorf (Steve) for the sale of the KA-0007 upgrade kit and the GY tire set. And USPS was amazing in taking only three days to deliver!
Now to some research notes... I have read, from sources, that in 1966, braided lines were unheard of as yet and all hoses should be just black rubber hoses. That will make an huge difference. Also, anodized fittings (usually painted in clear blue and clear red by model builders) were also not in use as the fitting were all metal or brass. This also makes an huge difference.
One last MAJOR change... in 1966, with the start of LeMans being drivers running to their cars and starting them up, a full harness was NOT being used at the time. Only a simple lap belt was in use as the drive could handle it with one hand while driving with the other.
All of things were added on the replicas built later but are, in reality, inaccurate to the actual car that was raced in 1966.
I will be going with the original 1966 look as 1) it is more in tune with the day and 2) less fiddly bits! to deal with! Replacing all the lines and fittings will be easier now!
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Post by pnance26 on Dec 31, 2020 7:07:24 GMT -8
Saw the MENG kit on Hobbbyeasy.com and now the price is looking very tempting @ $232 plus shipping. Must be the unpainted version...
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Post by starfighterace on Dec 31, 2020 9:11:54 GMT -8
Much thanks to gorf (Steve) for the sale of the KA-0007 upgrade kit and the GY tire set. And USPS was amazing in taking only three days to deliver! Now to some research notes... I have read, from sources, that in 1966, braided lines were unheard of as yet and all hoses should be just black rubber hoses. That will make an huge difference. Also, anodized fittings (usually painted in clear blue and clear red by model builders) were also not in use as the fitting were all metal or brass. This also makes an huge difference. One last MAJOR change... in 1966, with the start of LeMans being drivers running to their cars and starting them up, a full harness was NOT being used at the time. Only a simple lap belt was in use as the drive could handle it with one hand while driving with the other. All of things were added on the replicas built later but are, in reality, inaccurate to the actual car that was raced in 1966. I will be going with the original 1966 look as 1) it is more in tune with the day and 2) less fiddly bits! to deal with! Replacing all the lines and fittings will be easier now! Sorry, this is incorrect. Pictures abound with the Mk IIs in the LeMans and Daytona Garages equipped with Braided hoses, Anodized fittings and full racing harnesses. The best buy you can make when you want to build an accurate kit is reference material. Books, pictures, videos. You will never regret it, trust me.
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Post by afx on Dec 31, 2020 10:07:35 GMT -8
Full harness.
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Post by pnance26 on Dec 31, 2020 10:22:31 GMT -8
Let me see if I can find the source...
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Post by pnance26 on Dec 31, 2020 10:51:09 GMT -8
Much thanks to gorf (Steve) for the sale of the KA-0007 upgrade kit and the GY tire set. And USPS was amazing in taking only three days to deliver! Now to some research notes... I have read, from sources, that in 1966, braided lines were unheard of as yet and all hoses should be just black rubber hoses. That will make an huge difference. Also, anodized fittings (usually painted in clear blue and clear red by model builders) were also not in use as the fitting were all metal or brass. This also makes an huge difference. One last MAJOR change... in 1966, with the start of LeMans being drivers running to their cars and starting them up, a full harness was NOT being used at the time. Only a simple lap belt was in use as the drive could handle it with one hand while driving with the other. All of things were added on the replicas built later but are, in reality, inaccurate to the actual car that was raced in 1966. I will be going with the original 1966 look as 1) it is more in tune with the day and 2) less fiddly bits! to deal with! Replacing all the lines and fittings will be easier now! Sorry, this is incorrect. Pictures abound with the Mk IIs in the LeMans and Daytona Garages equipped with Braided hoses, Anodized fittings and full racing harnesses. The best buy you can make when you want to build an accurate kit is reference material. Books, pictures, videos. You will never regret it, trust me. No need to say sorry but I have been researching this for a couple of weeks now and of course, I can't find where I read about the hose/fittings/seat belt issues. I usually bookmark everything and this time... pfffttt... brain fart. Oh well, I'll keep looking. And thanks for the advice.
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Post by arcticwolf on Dec 31, 2020 11:19:48 GMT -8
For every reference photo that A has, B will have a different one and C will have something else. And they will all claim to be from Daytona '66 or wherever. Unless you have a colour (rare for the 60's) photo from the right angle clearly showing "Daytona" painted on the pit wall behind it, it's only as authentic as the person posting it claims. Patrick is correct in that going by really good pics of restored cars is misleading, as they tend to be upgraded with "modern" parts.
So, regardless of the many books published on the subject, I go by mostly black and white pics from the era, which may or may not be from any particular race, and most importantly from memory. I can do that because I was there. So, not specifically for a Ford GT, but era correct for the 60's from memory:
Hydraulic pressure lines - non braided (usually) HP rubber, black but could be blue, steel lines, brass fittings (trending to anodized by the late 60's)
Coolant hoses - rubber, not black but a dark grey, could also be a dark brown "natural rubber", or blue, often with wire re-enforcing molded in
Radiators - Brass tanks with copper cores, either natural or painted black.
Brake lines - steel, black rubber flex lines, brass fittings
Chrome plating - common early on, outlawed early seventies (due to it hiding cracks in the metal). A lot of what appeared chrome was actually polished stainless.
Seat belts - here we go. Some drivers wore them, some didn't. Being trapped in a burning car was a very real and well founded fear. Rindt wouldn't wear a 5 point, if he had he would have lived. 5 point, 6 point, 4 point, lap only or none at all were all possible depending on when, what and who.
These are the guidelines I use for all my builds. If I have a really good reference photo for a specific event, great, better still.
I'm building a Matra as raced by J Stewart in 1968 - which race? Probably none! I like to be accurate too, but accurate according to what?
With this Ford kit, I'm going to take a look at what's in the box, if I like it I'll use it, and if I don't I'll get a replacement, and add whatever they forgot.
Paul
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Post by pnance26 on Dec 31, 2020 13:01:32 GMT -8
Thanks for those words, Paul.
Things weren't very standardized in those days in many forms of racing. You really did run what you brung especially in the lower classes of competition. The 1960s were wide open.
I really wish I could find the reference for what I posted especially about the lap belt. I guess I will go with what I feel is appropriate at some point.
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Post by arcticwolf on Dec 31, 2020 13:36:38 GMT -8
Thanks for those words, Paul. Things weren't very standardized in those days in many forms of racing. You really did run what you brung especially in the lower classes of competition. The 1960s were wide open. I really wish I could find the reference for what I posted especially about the lap belt. I guess I will go with what I feel is appropriate at some point. In the Tasman series, Lotus ran their 49s with the oil reservoir tanks held onto the back of the cars with rubber bungee cords. No kidding.
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Post by 4wheels on Dec 31, 2020 15:18:06 GMT -8
Full harness. Easy to see the reason for the "Gurney Hump"!
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