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Post by pnance26 on Mar 16, 2020 8:32:47 GMT -8
Thanks Chris! Saves me some time and hopefully money! Wonder what’s on the PE sheets? I’m almost done. Maybe I’ll see if I can get the PE for the T! Because they open kits for Customer service situations they tend to have most Photo Etch and Individual trees available. Why not sell them? I was quite surprised when I checked it out. There are several Vendors on Ebay that break Down kits, just like a real car being worth more in pieces, those vendors now tend to be a bit steep but I did get xtra trees for a couple of my 1/12 Tamiya kits, and have xtra engine trees for them. Spot Models sells trees in their 'Spare Parts" section.. Chris Thanks for all that info! It helps!
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Post by pnance26 on Mar 16, 2020 16:25:32 GMT -8
Tamiya customer service is probably all at home... they didn't answer! Step by step... if I could just get the main body done, everything else is just sitting! I did add valve stems today... And started decals... I think I am going to have to clear gloss over the ones on the wing. They look a little dull... I don't know what to call this piece but it looks okay...
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Post by chrissmith on Mar 17, 2020 13:31:35 GMT -8
Are you doing the Mario Andretti version?
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Post by pnance26 on Mar 17, 2020 13:36:58 GMT -8
Are you doing the Mario Andretti version? Yup... why? At least as well as I can... I am always accurately perfect as I like some things like the Borg and Becker on the rear wing end plates which may not be "historically accurate".
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Post by pnance26 on Mar 17, 2020 13:38:12 GMT -8
I have a quick question... when doing gloss clear over decals, do you do the same "two mist coats, and one 'wet' coat"?
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Post by tatocorvette on Mar 17, 2020 14:58:09 GMT -8
I usually do 2 mist coats then 2 or more wet coats. Make sure the decals are fully dry.
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Post by pnance26 on Mar 17, 2020 15:26:04 GMT -8
Okay... about done for the week... thought I had the main body nailed and found a long strand of something right in a very visible place! I won't show it.. but frustrating because about a solid two hours of assembly and then decaling would knock this one out! Oh well... first a valve stem... The springs that hold the exhaust pipes... The rear wing endplates with little washers. I will dot with Molotow chrome to simulate whatever in the middle when the new wickerbills are in place... Finally the rear radiator ducts. These come in two halves and they were a bugger to get nice and smooth and then white. That's gonna be it because we are going to town tomorrow and then back to work. Maybe Sunday I can get that strand of Coronavirus dealt with and move on. I really want to get this done.
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Post by pnance26 on Mar 17, 2020 19:29:20 GMT -8
I have a quick question... when doing gloss clear over decals, do you do the same "two mist coats, and one 'wet' coat"? Never mind... I got my answer... when using Tamiya TS-13, you do a couple of mist coats, 30 minutes apart, then start doing "wetter" coats but not a "wet" coat. then let it all dry for a couple of days and buff out with model wax! IndyCals are rather flat finish so it's kind of necessary!
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Post by pnance26 on Mar 17, 2020 19:29:58 GMT -8
I usually do 2 mist coats then 2 or more wet coats. Make sure the decals are fully dry. Thanks! I appreciate the advice!
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Post by Joel_W on Mar 18, 2020 6:22:27 GMT -8
I guess everyone has their own procedures for gloss clearcoats. I use Mr. Color's C46 Gloss clear, and thin it 2:3 with Mr. Leveler's #400. I apply it exactly as I do color coats. 16-18 psi, two tack coats, two wet coats with the 2nd one almost ready to run. I only give the tack coats like 3-5 min to set, then 10 min between the two wet coats. Into the drying bin for a min of 4 days. My personal preference is that I don't want the wet coats to really cure, or it lays on top of the previous coat and picks up any issues, rather I want it to blend in and self level.
Waxing isn't for buffing out, it's for adding a deep shine. There's several excellent 2 & 3 part model buffing systems. Personally, I use Gravity's only because the Tamiya 3 part system seems to be always out of stock at Sprue Brothers and the other online retailers I use.
Joel
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Post by pnance26 on Mar 18, 2020 7:00:56 GMT -8
I guess everyone has their own procedures for gloss clearcoats. I use Mr. Color's C46 Gloss clear, and thin it 2:3 with Mr. Leveler's #400. I apply it exactly as I do color coats. 16-18 psi, two tack coats, two wet coats with the 2nd one almost ready to run. I only give the tack coats like 3-5 min to set, then 10 min between the two wet coats. Into the drying bin for a min of 4 days. My personal preference is that I don't want the wet coats to really cure, or it lays on top of the previous coat and picks up any issues, rather I want it to blend in and self level. Waxing isn't for buffing out, it's for adding a deep shine. There's several excellent 2 & 3 part model buffing systems. Personally, I use Gravity's only because the Tamiya 3 part system seems to be always out of stock at Sprue Brothers and the other online retailers I use. Joel I use Novus three part.
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Post by Joel_W on Mar 18, 2020 8:15:54 GMT -8
Good stuff. I should try that when my Gravity system is almost out, as Sprue Brothers does carry it. Joel
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gorf
Full Time Ride
Posts: 136
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Post by gorf on Mar 19, 2020 13:36:10 GMT -8
Patrick, I noticed in one of your photos that you have the"whatever the hell it is"in the middle of the rear wing mount.What did you use for this and did you ever find out what it really is and how long before you post photos of finished car? Steve
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Post by pnance26 on Mar 19, 2020 14:43:17 GMT -8
Patrick, I noticed in one of your photos that you have the"whatever the hell it is"in the middle of the rear wing mount.What did you use for this and did you ever find out what it really is and how long before you post photos of finished car? Steve I conversed with a Ferrari dealer who said it was some kind of gearbox cooling duct. The white tube to the wing actually goes to a rounded piece added to the top of the support I never noticed. It vents the engine somehow up through the tube to the tunnel and out the back. I’ll be leaving it off. I found some fittings on RB motion that actually go to an FW14. I am in the process of finishing the main body. I thought I had it nailed but found a few problems. I’m sanding them out and hopefully will have that done by Sunday. I hope I don’t have to put any more paint on... I’m decaling, then clear coating in my next week off... probably do decals a week from today... then shoot clear, so I’m hoping to have final assembly and photos by month’s end. Evergreen will deliver tomorrow to finish off the rear wing. And I have the clear on the shelf, so it won’t be long! Thanks for asking!
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Post by pnance26 on Mar 19, 2020 14:53:55 GMT -8
Are you doing the Mario Andretti version? Yup... why? At least as well as I can... I am always accurately perfect as I like some things like the Borg and Becker on the rear wing end plates which may not be "historically accurate". Should read “NOT always accurate” to history...
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