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Post by chrissmith on Mar 23, 2021 8:06:43 GMT -8
Patrick, When the kit does come out, I'm betting that you get one way before i do. joel I’m betting I don’t! LOL! I only have a dozen or so 1/12th F1 kits and I’m not a big Senna fan so it’s not going to be important! If I’m buying a new kit, it will be an old Ferrari. DO IT!! Old Ferrari 😉🤣🤣🤣
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Post by arcticwolf on Mar 23, 2021 9:21:00 GMT -8
I’m betting I don’t! LOL! I only have a dozen or so 1/12th F1 kits and I’m not a big Senna fan so it’s not going to be important! If I’m buying a new kit, it will be an old Ferrari. DO IT!! Old Ferrari 😉🤣🤣🤣 I have five unbuilt old Ferraris in 1/12th yet to get to.
Pick one!
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Post by Joel_W on Mar 23, 2021 10:10:51 GMT -8
Patrick Just wait till you see what's in the kit. I'm betting that it will play a major part of your decision one way or the other.
joel
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Post by pnance26 on Mar 23, 2021 10:46:44 GMT -8
Patrick Just wait till you see what's in the kit. I'm betting that it will play a major part of your decision one way or the other. joel Where can I find that description? I got zilch on the Nunu model site.
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Post by Joel_W on Mar 23, 2021 11:42:18 GMT -8
Patrick, I got the info from the last Spot Model newsletter: Nunu 2021 Let nobody calm down and let's panic!!! Nunu has finally announced us everything that they have scheduled for this year, on top of what we already know. And what exactly is coming our way? Nothing less than the reedition of the Martini S4 and the official S1, the 935 Kremer K3 sponsored by Gozzy, the evolution of the Audi R8 of the 2019 season, the reedition of the Cruze and a new version of the M6. These are the "official" news, but off the record, NOTHING LESS than: in 1/12 scale the Lotus 99T and 1993 Suzuki RGV500, and in 1/24 scale the 1980 DRM winner BMW 320i E21, the Mazda RX-7 Le Mans 1981, the Peugeot 306 Maxi Evo2 and the Audi A4 BTCC. Wwwoooowww!!! We still do not have exact dates, so everyone pay attention to the SpotModel newsletter to be informed of what is coming. joel
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Post by pnance26 on Mar 24, 2021 7:33:01 GMT -8
So the last two days have been good so far! I'm editing in some photos I’m up to step 10! Well, there are three steps for just the tires so that is kind of silly! I opted to use the RB Motion tires and if you are using them, it is a lot easier if you heat the tires in hot water to get them on the wheels. I had a small disaster with one of the rims cracking and since I can't really order a new set of wheels, I am kind of stuck unless someone has a solution! Also, I will show you the kit valve stems and the RB motion valve stems and ask your opinions. First the wheels painted gold... I haven't decided what to wash them in to show use... Next is the disaster... Kit valve stems... RB Motion Valve stem... Only difference I can tell is the shiny nature to the RB Motion. What do you all think? Spent a good two to three hours. finishing up oil lines with only one to go. I made a discovery! Put CA glue on one side of the joint to be made and a drop of kicker on the the other side! Thus tacks the line in place. I also have been threading a piece of wire through the #4 braided line to give it some smoother curves. Wish I had discovered this about two weeks ago! Things would look so much better! Oil lines in place... Braided line with wire inserted to allow for bends... Got the engine mounted. The exhaust pipes are a little off as per the first fit. And you can see how the engine is lying slightly to the starboard side at the rear. Not sure how to go about fixing that... I'll have to think on it... Front suspension and shocks in place. Now to work on the openings in the calipers. By the way, if you are looking for a source of inexpensive metal for fabrication, look no further than the nearest soda can. Makes straps and all kinds of stuff! Some bigger PE pieces in places as well! The grills on the front of the tub... And a test fit of the body with seats just chucked in for perspective. Need to fill the “bubble” area made so Dan Gurney’s head would fit! Suggestions for a nice filler are welcome! Here is a test fit of the body... I also toned down the red on the exhausts with a dry brushing of metallic steel... I like it better now... Your comments are always welcome! Keep on building!
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Post by Joel_W on Mar 24, 2021 9:30:28 GMT -8
Patrick, One wheel just had to crack and cause an issue. I'm guessing that's the reason that you started to soak the tires in hot water. I'm assuming that since you're asking for ideas to fix the cracked wheel, you don't have the piece that broke off.
Since this is 1/12 scale, I'd try some Apoxie Sculpt Putty rolled into a thin worn. Then pressed into position. Work to the proper square shape using plenty of water and a putty tool or something similar so you can both smooth and shape. When dry and cured in 24 hrs, you can sand, polish, and prep for painting.
As far as the crooked engine goes, you can really see the off set in the way that the exhaust pipes flare off center.
Overall, you're making great progress even with the just 4 hours per week right now.
joel
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Post by pnance26 on Mar 24, 2021 9:46:18 GMT -8
Patrick, One wheel just had to crack and cause an issue. I'm guessing that's the reason that you started to soak the tires in hot water. I'm assuming that since you're asking for ideas to fix the cracked wheel, you don't have the piece that broke off. Since this is 1/12 scale, I'd try some Apoxie Sculpt Putty rolled into a thin worn. Then pressed into position. Work to the proper square shape using plenty of water and a putty tool or something similar so you can both smooth and shape. When dry and cured in 24 hrs, you can sand, polish, and prep for painting. As far as the crooked engine goes, you can really see the off set in the way that the exhaust pipes flare off center. Overall, you're making great progress even with the just 4 hours per week right now. joel As a matter of fact, Joel, the broken piece is still there, it is just pushed up under the rim... and to be honest, the other three had gone on very simply and the last one was the one to crack. Isn't that always the story. It is more obvious in the photos than in reality. Do you have a solution? I can try to work it back into position and see what happens, I guess. Yes the crooked engine will take some engineering but I think it will just be a matter of moving the locator hole over with a shim. It is just one of those deals! Thanks for the advice!
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Post by Joel_W on Mar 24, 2021 10:54:55 GMT -8
Patrick, If you can't wiggle the broken off piece back into place, the Apoxie Putty works great. Just use as little as possible so you have the absolute min of sanding to do after it dries. Working with it wet is a lot easier then it sounds. If I can do it, anyone can.
joel
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Post by pnance26 on Mar 24, 2021 14:34:52 GMT -8
I also know how to tweak the rear end... just move the mounting position over a smidgen! That should help!
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jimc7
Qualifier
Posts: 51
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Post by jimc7 on Mar 24, 2021 15:21:29 GMT -8
Patrick, I had the same issue with the off kilter engine. Check the front mounting plate that the screw goes through, mine was not pushed all the way in when I glued it. Once I mounted that plate correctly all was good.
Bummer about the cracked wheel, one of the reasons why I usually push them on from the back. Those tires are sooooo much better looking over the kit supplied ones. Unfortunately I can't justify the cost.
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jimc7
Qualifier
Posts: 51
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Post by jimc7 on Mar 24, 2021 15:43:25 GMT -8
If the piece of the wheel is tucked up inside, how about removing the tire and just gluing it back in place? This way you can repaint the wheel if needed. Or are the tires too hard to remove?
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Post by pnance26 on Mar 24, 2021 16:42:02 GMT -8
If the piece of the wheel is tucked up inside, how about removing the tire and just gluing it back in place? This way you can repaint the wheel if needed. Or are the tires too hard to remove? Had to give up for the week and back to work... I will take a look at extracting the piece and I think it can be done. I honestly think it is just pushed back in one piece. Glad to know it wasn't me... but I know the front plate was in place. I think my solution will be to redrill the rear mount over a few millimeters. But I will also inspect the front to make sure... thanks for the hint. So, I have a lot of time to think while driving to and from work and it dawned on me to use the rear screw on the engine as the swivel and then just redrill the front mounting hole after correct positioning... much easier to do and it will be a snap... (he says hopefully!). This shouldn't have to move more than a few millimeters.
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Post by pnance26 on Mar 26, 2021 7:07:30 GMT -8
Been doing some research and I’m sure this will take a great deal of willpower on my part, but I am going to dirty up this bad boy.
I mean, make it look like it did 24 hours at LeMans. Dirt, grime, exhaust stains, pieces of rubber, dirty headlamps and windshield... that’s the one thing about most any racing movie that is so unreal... the condition of the car at the end of a race.
I’m going to use some “racer’s tape” around the lower lamps and dirty the whole thing up! I’ve been finding some tips and tricks!
No showroom restoration replica here!
Thoughts?
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Post by Joel_W on Mar 26, 2021 7:32:37 GMT -8
Unless you're going to do a diorama of some sort, a dirty model on a base just doesn't make any sense to me.
joel
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