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Post by mustang1989 on Apr 29, 2021 3:26:17 GMT -8
Hang with 'er Paul. You're doin 'er proud.
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Post by Joel_W on Apr 29, 2021 4:45:12 GMT -8
Paul, the front of the chassis and under tray glued up perfectly. No one would ever think that you had any issues with it. The three master cylinder reservoirs/lines look like they were molded for the kit, can't ask for better then that.
As for the side pods, once again you over came those pesky gluing issues, and the results show. The finished/painted pod looks fantastic.
joel
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Post by pnance26 on Apr 29, 2021 4:45:16 GMT -8
Makes me really not want to build this kit!
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Post by arcticwolf on May 3, 2021 18:07:41 GMT -8
Makes me really not want to build this kit! Patrick, knowing your level of accuracy and attention to detail, you'd go stark raving nuts trying to build this kit!
I, however, already am certifiably mental, so I slog on with it.
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Post by arcticwolf on May 3, 2021 18:21:25 GMT -8
So, a brief update. On the side pod, I painted the bottom silver, the top white, then masked it and painted it blue. It looked horrible so I did it all over again. The pinstripe somehow got moved slightly and dried before I noticed. It can stay. The air intake was supplied as a clear part. Rather than try to make a mesh screen, I just gave it a coat of diluted smoke and then washed it off. I sort of worked, lol. The louvers are chromed on the kit, which looked fake, so I sprayed them aluminum and a coat of semi clear. All of this for one sidepod, I haven't even started to paint the other one yet. The skirt and side cover can stay off until I'm done, if I install them now I'll only break it. That's the good news. The bad news is, I test fitted the engine and the exhausts just WILL NOT FIT under the bodywork. This may be the last photo worth viewing, as it sits now:
The next one is likely to be as it looks after I have run over it with my Silverado 4x4. Several times.
Paul
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Post by mickgee on May 3, 2021 19:49:37 GMT -8
Hello Paul, after viewing the previous pages and comments, I'll steer sway from Heller cars! Your project appeals though and I think to have been bitten by the open wheel bug.
Funny thing though about Heller, their tall, historical sailing ships are superb.
Mike..
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Post by mustang1989 on May 4, 2021 4:23:42 GMT -8
Man.....I'm here to tell ya....I feel your pain and frustration Paul. My Maverick build like to have beat me into submission as far as my modeling career goes. As a matter of fact, I stepped away from modeling for a few months because I was so frustrated with it. When I returned I built a couple of much simpler kits to give me the feeling of modeling accomplishment again and that got my mojo goin' and I was able to resume the Maverick build with new ideas and alot better mindset. Hang with brother.
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Post by Joel_W on May 4, 2021 5:16:50 GMT -8
Paul, From where I sit, you're doing one heck of a fantastic job on a killer of a older kit. So far you've beat it at every step of the way. The one side pod that you've just about got completed looks great. Love how you painted the top and sides separately. both the red stripping on the top and the white stripping on the side look perfect to me.
Please continue to post as you work through each step.
joel
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Post by arcticwolf on May 18, 2021 11:49:20 GMT -8
Thanks guys. This thing is being a bit of an obstacle (or something less polite). After a bit of tweaking, I managed to create this from the kit parts. I thought it was nice and neat and looked great:
With the engine installed in the car, the rear bodywork will not clear the exhausts. No matter what I do with the kit parts, it ain't gonna work.
GRRRRRRRRRR
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Post by arcticwolf on May 18, 2021 12:04:11 GMT -8
And so I shall try to make my own. I've done this before, but not to fit such a confined and specific space, so we'll see. First start by drilling out the block to accept some copper wires, and I've pinned the exhaust in place so I have my reference point:
Next take a resin collector (I made a few back a while ago, they're sized for a small block Chev but they should work OK I think). Now cut 4 pieces of #14 house wire the appropriate size and strip the ends:
CA them into the collector and let it cure thoroughly. Just bend and more bend until it sort of resembles the part you want - and fits the holes in the block (that's the tricky bit).
So, a test fit, and no, the damned thing doesn't fit.
I'm beginning to dislike this car.
Paul
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Post by Joel_W on May 18, 2021 12:25:54 GMT -8
Paul, Your 1st attempt really looked like a winner to me. Since the exhaust header pipes are copper wire, can't you bend them all upwards to meet the exhaust pipes?
joel
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Post by arcticwolf on May 18, 2021 13:29:53 GMT -8
Paul, Your 1st attempt really looked like a winner to me. Since the exhaust header pipes are copper wire, can't you bend them all upwards to meet the exhaust pipes? joel Joel, I hope so. But it's forwards, upwards and inwards
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Post by Joel_W on May 19, 2021 4:25:28 GMT -8
Paul, I'm still betting that you'll make it fit like a fine leather glove, or in this case 2 gloves. joel
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Post by mickgee on May 19, 2021 14:34:17 GMT -8
Hello Paul, great idea with the electrical wire! I never thought about this as a source. I can imagine though, the copper wire itself along with the insulation is quite a feat to get all of those bends situated. I'm thinking this would be the dread, especially since the motor is styrene.
Solder wire. Bends super easy. Leave unpainted, real metal. They look great.
I haven't a clue about the exhaust diameter of this type of car, maybe 2" ? This comes out to about 4mm in 1:12 scale. Rosin core soldering wire, I don't know which gauge. Saw it on Amazon but have no access.
Just sayin' Mike..
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Post by arcticwolf on May 19, 2021 18:51:04 GMT -8
Hi Mike. Yes, this one's a bit tight. I've been using it for F5000 exhausts where there aren't so much space restrictions. This one's my first try at fitting it in to such a confined space. I seem to have made it work, now to make it look good, and repair the damage to the rest of the car from all the manhandling! Also the small problem of doing it all over for the other side. GRRR.
Modern #14 insulated copper wire = approx 1 3/4" diameter pipes, #12 = 2" but harder to bend. I had some of the old (now outlawed) aluminum wire, it was easier to work with, but I seem to have thrown it out. I have tried solder, it didn't seem to like me. I just keep experimenting.
I can see what GĂ©rard Ducarouge was doing with his design, keeping the exhausts tucked up and the inboard rocker arm suspension, all to get everything possible out of the airflow from the venturis - quite forward thinking. But it makes a hell of a tight fit for everything! Basically he built a better Lotus, and then Williams built a better Ligier.
I shall plod onwards.
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