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Post by girchygirchy on Feb 8, 2021 10:55:51 GMT -8
You are correct after looking at the decals... I am doing the #1 which is Acadian Blue and I am going to use Vermillion Red for the red which is a little more neon. If you go back to the beginning of this, we all had quite a description of which red is the "correct" red. MCW has told me that I need to lay down some white underneath the vermillion (not white primer but white paint). This will make the vermillion "pop". I put a link to a build log from a guy over in England who detailed the fit problems with the "clamshell" back as well as the doors and the ride height. The kit has the car standing a little too high and Henry also details where the doors need to be shaved and how to deal with the rear piece. It might not make a difference if you display the car with the front and rear clamshells open. Don't be frustrated. This too will pass! Hey did you notice inside the scoops on the rear that they are solid? Those need to be opened up as they would be on the real car as well as the openings under the two rear deck scoops and the "bubble" on the top of the left door. The MENG kit does have that part of it correct but little else. Also you getting corrected tires or staying with the kit tires? I'd looked at that thread earlier and must have missed the comments about the misshapen rear clamshell. I'll go back and check. I'm well aware of the ride height though...I think it's competing with the GMP 1:18 diecast Ferrari 330 P4 for most abnormally high ride height, sheesh!
I hadn't looked at the scoops, but thanks for the heads up, those will need to be cleaned. Some of the other details I'm not too worried about. I'm nowhere near building this thing, I just wanted to pick one up while the getting's good in case they're discontinued and/or go through the roof later. Or the KA kit went OOP, or the aftermarket tires (which I've picked up, yes) disappear, etc. Planning ahead. I don't even know what color I'll want, I'm leaning towards the Emberglo #4 since it lives closeby and I've actually seen it in person.
You're doing a cracking job, thanks for the pictures!
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Post by pnance26 on Feb 9, 2021 7:25:09 GMT -8
Tedious work so this was about all I got done yesterday... 118 little round things to install and then, I picked up a can of Aluminum instead of clear... duh... had to recoat and then remove all the black off the sterling "buttons". I had to explain to my wife the holes with inserts were for ventilation of the seat as 24 hours in the car would have become unbearable without them and no A/C. The things we take for granted.  I am still experimenting with the exhausts... this is dipped in AlClad transparent yellow, then red, then yellow again. You can see in the upper left two of the pipes with just yellow, then red. They haven't gotten second round of yellow. I'm still experimenting with the clear blue... What do you all think?  |
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Post by Chris K. Hale on Feb 9, 2021 10:16:26 GMT -8
Paul, I Thank You for your kind compliments on the D.O.H.C. Gt-40 I built, I didnt use the Union kit but 3 original IMC kits for the chassis and body, why 3? because it took that many to find chassis and body parts that were not warped and fit well. Most of the rest of the car was scratch built. I was faced with building a car that they only made 6 documented of. I also had to use my sharp memory of the real car that I spent so much time with Briggs Cunningham in, asking questions about this and that and his stories of driving ay LeMans and all the famous race tracks, Such a great racer and a gentleman. Chris
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Post by Joel_W on Feb 9, 2021 13:34:09 GMT -8
Patrick,
Interesting technique on the exhausts, but to my (one) eye, they look to Yellowish. Maybe more varied shades using Blue to cool down the color some.
Joel
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Post by pnance26 on Feb 9, 2021 14:59:10 GMT -8
Patrick, Interesting technique on the exhausts, but to my (one) eye, they look to Yellowish. Maybe more varied shades using Blue to cool down the color some. Joel I would agree, Joel, and then I come across a photo such as this...  As opposed to...  And then there is this!  So it's kind of anybody's guess... I really don't know. I've never done white metal before so I'm not sure. I mean they can all be stripped and I can start over I guess. I am in no hurry. If anyone is an expert in doing metal exhausts, I'm all ears. I have all the AlClad a person could want... |
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Post by Joel_W on Feb 14, 2021 8:21:39 GMT -8
Patrick,
I think that you'll have to 1st decide at what stage of the exhaust headers life you want to replicate, new through race abused all look completely different. Just like we make a decision as to what finish we want to have on our models based on new/museum quality, race ready, & post race. All will look completely different. If you're going for a new engine/compartment look, then I'd opt for a basically new header with some heat colorization. Like I said, the options are all yours.
joel
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Post by pnance26 on Feb 14, 2021 10:29:52 GMT -8
Patrick, I think that you'll have to 1st decide at what stage of the exhaust headers life you want to replicate, new through race abused all look completely different. Just like we make a decision as to what finish we want to have on our models based on new/museum quality, race ready, & post race. All will look completely different. If you're going for a new engine/compartment look, then I'd opt for a basically new header with some heat colorization. Like I said, the options are all yours. joel I think I am going to do a race used appearance, Joel. I found a photo that uses racer's tape around the lower headlamp assemblies and gives a different look. Some of the other builds looks clean and pristine and complete, right down to wiper fluid bag on the left door, and I am not going to try to compete with any of that. Like I have said, I'm not building a replica but a model of a car. I am not trying to look like the car is a set piece from "Honey, I shrunk the car"... I know you never suggested that. I do wish there was a way to replicate the dents in that top photo! Those are pretty cool to think a mechanic beat them into submission but since they are solid white metal... if they were aluminum tubing, I would go crazy trying to replicate the bends! It is still a really cool looking effect! So I'm not sure. I don't really like the way they look now being dipped and since I was able to buy the correct piece of brass tubing for the new compressor, I may just strip them and start over with an airbrush. But that will extend the time somewhat... I have not been getting consistent days off in the past 5 months and so I am building what I can. Next look may be a bit of the correct blue color with the base chassis... just depends on the weather. I did buy a better space heater that is more consistent with temp, so I may be able to progress on... the exhaust pipes are actually a part of assembly steps 1,2, and 3 so... Thanks for looking! |
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Post by pnance26 on Feb 14, 2021 10:37:20 GMT -8
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Post by Joel_W on Feb 14, 2021 11:08:26 GMT -8
Patrick,
I'm retired, and lately I can't find much modeling time either, now go figure that one out. So believe me I know how you feel. Between snow almost every day or so for the last week, even with the new snow blower i'm beat after these 90 min sessions as my driveway holds 6 full size cars and is an L so all of it has to be done. Then the plow guys just love to see how much more snow and ice that they can pile up on my driveway.
Just work at whatever pace you feel comfortable with with the free time you've got. Glad that you've got a new space heater as I'm sure that it's way colder by you then by me on Long Island.
Hopefully some of the better, more experienced guys with the skill set to do those exhausts can give you some ideas and direction. I'm more of a basic Aluminum color, then some translucent Yellow and Blue, and pray for a decent effect.
joel
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jimc7
Qualifier
Posts: 51
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Post by jimc7 on Feb 14, 2021 12:20:59 GMT -8
Nice progress Patrick, I'm having a blast with mine too!
This is the way I did the exhausts, which I'm happy with. Will work with metal or plastic.
Prime and then paint gloss black (I use Tamiya lacquer in a spray can). When dry use Alclad Gold Titanium, let dry and lightly overcoat with Alclad Pale Burnt Metal leaving some of the gold titanium showing in some areas. Then use your transparents, blue, red, orange, yellow. I used a mix of lacquer and acrylics (since I didn't have all Alclad colors) and didn't even clean the airbrush while doing these, just blow out the color and add the next. Spray the transparent colors sparingly wherever you think they look ok, but don't over do them.
Sounds like a lot, but it actually goes very quick once you get the base colors done.
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Post by Joel_W on Feb 14, 2021 13:20:35 GMT -8
jimc7
Could you please post a view pics of your exhausts. I would really love to see how your exhaust look.
Joel
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Post by pnance26 on Feb 14, 2021 13:33:36 GMT -8
Nice progress Patrick, I'm having a blast with mine too!
This is the way I did the exhausts, which I'm happy with. Will work with metal or plastic.
Prime and then paint gloss black (I use Tamiya lacquer in a spray can). When dry use Alclad Gold Titanium, let dry and lightly overcoat with Alclad Pale Burnt Metal leaving some of the gold titanium showing in some areas. Then use your transparents, blue, red, orange, yellow. I used a mix of lacquer and acrylics (since I didn't have all Alclad colors) and didn't even clean the airbrush while doing these, just blow out the color and add the next. Spray the transparent colors sparingly wherever you think they look ok, but don't over do them.
Sounds like a lot, but it actually goes very quick once you get the base colors done.
Thanks, Jim... I will be giving all that a try... I have the white metal header pipes and the ends that you see are milled aluminum. Does that make any difference? |
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jimc7
Qualifier
Posts: 51
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Post by jimc7 on Feb 14, 2021 14:09:33 GMT -8
Patrick, I should have mentioned that the milled tips from KA can just be cleaned up and heated with a torch, keep checking as you heat them and you'll get a nice varied coloring with browns, yellows and blue. Be careful, you'll get them pretty hot! I dunked them in water afterwards to cool them. Also, if the transparent colors that you add to the pipes are too bright you can tone them down with Tamiya smoke.
Joel, once I figure out how to post a pic I will, if Patrick doesn't mind.
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Post by pnance26 on Feb 14, 2021 14:44:54 GMT -8
Patrick, I should have mentioned that the milled tips from KA can just be cleaned up and heated with a torch, keep checking as you heat them and you'll get a nice varied coloring with browns, yellows and blue. Be careful, you'll get them pretty hot! I dunked them in water afterwards to cool them. Also, if the transparent colors that you add to the pipes are too bright you can tone them down with Tamiya smoke. Joel, once I figure out how to post a pic I will, if Patrick doesn't mind. Of course, I don't mind... I welcome it! This is for all of us! |
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jimc7
Qualifier
Posts: 51
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Post by jimc7 on Feb 14, 2021 15:54:21 GMT -8
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