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Post by Joel_W on Oct 23, 2019 15:27:14 GMT -8
Well, it's been a while since I've last updated my Roush JPS Mustang build blog, but I've finally completed enough work for a decent update. After striping off the old Red paint, and repainting the body sections Matt Black, next up was a wet sanding with Micro Mesh Emerycloth. I started with 6,000, then 8,000, and finished up with 12,000. The surfaces were now smooth enough for decaling as I don't use a clear gloss coat, it's decals right on top of the painted surface. The kit decals were printed way back in 1991, and were in fairly good physical shape, but the gold color was a pale Yellow, so no matter what they were filed in my circular file. I had bought from Indy Cal's their decal sheet for the JPS Roush Mustang which has it's own slight issue with the Gold color. It's more of a Goldish Bisque, as Mike can't print true Gold nor Silver. But the color does look pretty good, and should work just fine. The other issue with these decals is that all the gold on every decal is outlined in Matt Black. There's just no way that I can trim away all of the black without damaging the "Gold" color, especially on the long stripes. I've seen these decals used on other builds, and the Matt Black does seem to disappear once a good gloss finish is applied. So that's my plan of attack. You'll easily see the Matt Black trim in the pictures at this stage of the body work. Also as usual, the decal sheet is just one big decal, so I had to cut out each decal separately. And the stripes wasn't the easiest thing for me to accomplish. Also for some strange reason, the decals seems a lot thicker then on past sheets I've used. My decaling procedure is still Microscale Set under and over the decal, then Microscale Sol, and finally Solvaset. From start to finish it took 16 hours over 5 work days. One of my longer decaling jobs for sure. And just to make it a little more interesting there are several decals including the side numbers that had to be cut as they spanned across two body sections, and then correctly aligned. Here's some pictures of the body after the decaling has been completed. just keep in mind that there is no clear gloss as yet. Joel
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Post by Deleted on Oct 23, 2019 20:01:49 GMT -8
I've been waiting for this Joel. I do believe its starting to take shape my friend. I am really staying, AHEM..... glued to this, I KNOW what you can do, this is fun! just a little side note there really is more to these kits, than first welcomes you when you open the box. THEY absolutely beg for more detailing and with a decent set of reference photos or whatever else one might use. IMAGINATION is the key, true the front suspension is really basic. Solid, no A arms shocks, brake definition, steer, I could go on, BUT none of this is insurmountable. If you have decent scratch building skills a new X-Acto blade YOU are set.
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Post by Joel_W on Oct 24, 2019 4:15:49 GMT -8
I've been waiting for this Joel. I do believe its starting to take shape my friend. I am really staying, AHEM..... glued to this, I KNOW what you can do, this is fun! just a little side note there really is more to these kits, than first welcomes you when you open the box. THEY absolutely beg for more detailing and with a decent set of reference photos or whatever else one might use. IMAGINATION is the key, true the front suspension is really basic. Solid, no A arms shocks, brake definition, steer, I could go on, BUT none of this is insurmountable. If you have decent scratch building skills a new X-Acto blade YOU are set. Bill, Thanks for the big Thumbs up, it's greatly appreciated. As for really going to town with detailing, I'm planning more of what I call enhancing so it kind of busies up the front end. Research material I've got, but not so the skill level. Will try my best for sure. Joel
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Post by Ben_B on Oct 24, 2019 10:31:22 GMT -8
Looking good, Joel!
Regarding the decal color, a few years ago I read that the graphics on the JPS F1 cars was bisque and not gold. They had one on display at the Mitty at Road Atlanta soon after I read that and it was indeed bisque. Could the IMSA JPS car have also used that color?
Ben
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Post by Joel_W on Oct 24, 2019 12:54:34 GMT -8
Ben, That's really quite interesting. the Bisque color on the decals are much more Goldish looking up close and personal then how they showed up here. My main concern is still those Thick Black borders. But only time will tell.
Joel
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Post by starfighterace on Oct 25, 2019 5:12:52 GMT -8
I never saw that car in person. I too would like to know if they were Bisque, gold, or more likely Delux Gold based on the pictures. I was planing on re-doing these decals as a little bird told me some were going to be re-issued, then the collapse of Revell's owners doomed that. I talked to my decal printer about their opinion and they told me Delux Gold was the most likely.
In any event, your build looks marvelous! Carry on!
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Post by Ben_B on Oct 25, 2019 5:41:57 GMT -8
Adding that black border is an odd choice on the decal maker's part. Like you say, hopefully, it will disappear under a clear coat. If not, you can always say the real car was like that, and nobody will question you!
Ben
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Post by Joel_W on Oct 25, 2019 6:28:24 GMT -8
I never saw that car in person. I too would like to know if they were Bisque, gold, or more likely Delux Gold based on the pictures. I was planing on re-doing these decals as a little bird told me some were going to be re-issued, then the collapse of Revell's owners doomed that. I talked to my decal printer about their opinion and they told me Delux Gold was the most likely. In any event, your build looks marvelous! Carry on! Mark, Every time I saw your call sign, I knew that I've seen it somewhere besides here, but just couldn't place it. Your last post finally turned on my dim bulb, as I've seen your decals when I was into Military aircraft modeling. When I built my Ebbro Lotus 72E, I had one of the last remaining decal sheets from Indy Cals, and a additional set of JPS logos from Decalpool.com. Neither set to the best of my memory had a black border. But Indy Cal's JPS Mustang does, which is very odd. Then I looked at the Revell decal sheet and those black borders were also around every one of the decals on the sheet. I guess do to the complex nature of the stripping, Mike (Indy Cals) used the same numbering so you could get the correct decals in the proper place. It never occurred to me he could have copied the decals. I went back and carefully looked at several of my reference photos, and while it's hard to see, some of the markings, which I've always assumed are vinyl sure look like they have a black border as you can see a different amount of shine to the black verses the painted body. In other pictures you can clearly see the JPS on the door panels are peeled and applied. Although you can also see that they're somewhat frayed, which could be from cutting. At this point, it really doesn't matter. how the end finish turns out, is just the best I can do. The JPS Mustang was never the version of this car I wanted to do, but it turned out that the JPS sponsorship was it for this version Roush Mustang. I already have a still shrinked wrapped Whale tail Folger's kit, which there are also several markings for, and I'm working with Bill to get the missing pcs for another Whale tail kit. Joel
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Post by Joel_W on Oct 25, 2019 6:36:05 GMT -8
Adding that black border is an odd choice on the decal maker's part. Like you say, hopefully, it will disappear under a clear coat. If not, you can always say the real car was like that, and nobody will question you! Ben Ben, Basically, as I replied to Mark just before, I have pictures that seem to show it both ways on the real car. Of course these are pictures of the original Roush car, and then various owners, who could have ordered vinyl decals, or even cut their own. At this point, who really knows. And like I said, it is what it is at this point. Unlike in the real world, the Gloss coat over the decals should really blend in the two different blacks. Joel
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Post by arcticwolf on Oct 30, 2019 19:44:58 GMT -8
Hi Joel
I've been following this build of yours with great interest, for a number of reasons. One, I liked the Trans Am series back then. Two, through a good friend, I have a bit of a connection with and fondness for Jack Roush (plus I have a Roush/Yates motor sitting in the corner of my garage). Three, I used to own a 90 Mustang GT ragtop (wish I still did). Four, I just like anything in black and gold JPS livery. I only build single seaters, I haven't built anything with fenders since I was 14, but I do like the way this car of yours is going to look. And then tonight I find a Revell JPS Mustang sealed kit on E-Bay. This is too much of a co-incidence, fate has intervened. $50.00 later it's on its way to me. I will definately be following your progress with a lot more interest!
Cheers
Paul
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Post by Joel_W on Oct 31, 2019 5:29:06 GMT -8
Hi Joel
I've been following this build of yours with great interest, for a number of reasons. One, I liked the Trans Am series back then. Two, through a good friend, I have a bit of a connection with and fondness for Jack Roush (plus I have a Roush/Yates motor sitting in the corner of my garage). Three, I used to own a 90 Mustang GT ragtop (wish I still did). Four, I just like anything in black and gold JPS livery. I only build single seaters, I haven't built anything with fenders since I was 14, but I do like the way this car of yours is going to look. And then tonight I find a Revell JPS Mustang sealed kit on E-Bay. This is too much of a co-incidence, fate has intervened. $50.00 later it's on its way to me. I will definately be following your progress with a lot more interest!
Cheers
Paul
Paul, I sure hope that you don't mind me using your real 1st name as I'm Old School, and just never got all that comfortable with addressing handles and the such. Wow, that's one great Bio you have. Just the thought of having a Roush/Yates motor is "mind blowing" to say the least. I try my best to alternate open wheel then closed wheel builds because I just can't decide which is my favorite type of modeling, but in real life my Favorites List following and watching is really heavily over to the open wheel side. 1-Indy Car 2-Formula 1 3-All IMSA classes as TV coverage is kind of spotty. 4-Tin Top series from Europe to Australia as I can best catch them on some weird Cable Sports channel. I do find the Tamiya F1 cars in 1/20 scale to be a real challenge, especially the exhaust systems. Thank goodness that Ebbro has simplified them. The series of Revell kits from yesteryear are really quite nice, and do build up into an excellent display model. Just not so sure how really accurate the interiors are, as all the cars have virtually the same chassis, and suspension, just different engines. Comparing research pictures to the JPS kit shows quite a few differences, none of which I'm even considering to change or modify at my skill level. I'll certainly be following your build when you start it from the green flag to crossing the finish line. Joel
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Post by Joel_W on Oct 31, 2019 6:31:41 GMT -8
One question guys, does anyone know exactly what colors the Roush engines were painted? I've seen pictures which looks like the block is black or not painted, while the heads are a darker cast metal color, and the valve covers are always Black.
The instrctions are just calling out for a Aluminum color.
Joel
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Post by arcticwolf on Oct 31, 2019 17:53:58 GMT -8
One question guys, does anyone know exactly what colors the Roush engines were painted? I've seen pictures which looks like the block is black or not painted, while the heads are a darker cast metal color, and the valve covers are always Black. The instrctions are just calling out for a Aluminum color. Joel Hi Joel
It's not aluminum, thats for sure, unless someone painted it. It's a cast iron block. Mine is black block and heads, valve covers are black powder coat with aluminum highlights, intake and front timing cover are aluminum casting, splash pan under the intake is polished steel. But that's a newer (mid 2010's) Nascar motor, what they now call xfinity series, so I can't say the Trans Am would be the same. Pretty sure it's the same basic engine though, Windsor small block pushrod. Hope this heps.
Paul
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Post by Joel_W on Nov 1, 2019 7:51:40 GMT -8
Paul, Thanks so much for the info.
I already answered your pm, but there's no reason to re-send the engine info I need.
Joel
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Post by afx on Nov 1, 2019 8:39:59 GMT -8
Block looks unpainted in this photo but it is of a restored car.
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