Revell 1/25 scale Roush SCCA Trans AM JPS Mustang

[Joel_W]

  Finally, after two weeks without an update, I've got enough accomplished during this Holiday season to post another update. As I said in my last update, that polishing out the body shells was number 1 on my hit list, well, it just never happened. Just spent more time working on finishing up the engine compartment.

  1st order of business was to glue the glass bukhead window in place, but 1st I had to paint the rubber glasket, which I did by hand painting Tamiya XF-69 Nato Black, then gluing it in place with Tamiya Extra Thin. Then glue the driver's compartment rear bulkhead to the chassis tubing. Turned out to be another gluing adventure. Only this time it was all my fault. The tubing is super glossy, and not even Tamiya Extra Thin would eat through all the layers of Tamiya X-1 Gloss Black. Then I tried CA glue, and it was basically another failure as it held, but would snap right off while working on the interior. So out came the 5 min Epoxy, a little scraping of the tubing, and the job was done.

 
  Now my undivided attention was focused on the engine/transmission sub assembly. The Roush Ford 358 ci V8 engine developed 650 hp running a single 4 barrel carb, and a Oil Dry Sump system. The kit parts fit basically well enough so that assembly was straight forward. However, the valve covers are the wrong ones, but I didn't have any spares so I used them with one modification. The breathers are just represented by a small raised circle?:

 
  The Alloy Aluminum front plate was used as the main attachment points for the engine to the chassis, had some vaguely molded on parts that represented the ignigion coil and an over flow bottle. I just cut, filed, and sanded them off. I air brushed the plate Mr. Color Metalizer Steel, and then painted the water pump flat Aluminum. Unfortunately, I've never been able to really photograph the various shades of Aluminum Metalizer so that it looks like it does in person. This is the best I could do.

 
  I made a ignition coil out of Evergreen tubing, and a little putty that was sanded to shape to represent the cone top. I used a generic bottle to represent the overflow bottle from my spares box. Unfortunately, I just forgot to photograph the assembly before installing the engine. I drilled out the distributor, and glued 9 Blue ignition wires for the plugs plus the one for the coil. Then glued the wires in place. The ignition wires are strapped and attached to the front of the valve covers on the real engine. I've wrapped them, but haven't as yet glued the wrap to the valve covers. I also used bits & pcs to make the breathers for the valve covers. If you look at the front of the engine, you can see the Aluminum mounting plate and on one side the over flow bottle, and on the other side the top of the coil with the ignition wire. You can also see that both Valve covers have a breathers made from more bits & pcs.

  As for getting the engine/trans installed as it's a super tight fit was a major squeeze job, but ventually it does fit.

 
 
  I didn't bother doing anthing with the carb other then gluing it on the top of the intake manifold as it will be completely covered by the air filter to be attached later. It's really more of a spacer then anything else.

  As for the engine exhaust manifolds, they're each a 2 pc assembly that did require some putty and sanding. Then they were painted using the "Neat" method of no thinner so that it had a really rough texture to it. Installation was shall I say a little sloppy at best, but I did manage to get both installed and aligned, as well as the exhaust pipes which don't rearch the body panels. No big deal in my build as you can't see them once the main body is on. There is still a cross over pipe that I need to install to complete the engine exhaust system.

  Originally I was going to add more lines to the engine compartment, but it's pretty tight with the engine installed, so this is going to be it unless I figure how to add a line here and there.

  Here' a few pictures of the overall chassis assembly to date:

 
 
  And 2 pics with the rear shell just dry fitted. Of course it's out of alignment as I must have done that while placing the chassis for pictures.

 
 
 Thanks for taking the time to check out my build to date, it's always much appreciated.

Joel

[arcticwolf]

Joel, as always, your workmanship is superb. You're right about the valve covers, they're sort of "generic whatever" but the air cleaner hides most of everything anyway.

I have the opposite situation, the Tamiya white cap glue I can find here easily (I like it!) but the Testors nobody has even heard of. Except in a tube, that I have lots of. I just used the BSI super glues they seem to work on anything, especially human body parts.

Bill, if you attempt this, you're a brave man. I'd say it just about drove me mental, but according to my wife I already am, so I rest my case.

cheers guys

[afx]

Coming along nicely Joel. The decals are a nice upgrade.

[Joel_W]

Bill, Paul, and JC,

Thanks so much guys for stopping by and appreciating my most modest of efforts. Slowly but surely I'm inching towards the finish line.

The more I think about it, the more I'm convinced that I should have used the engine plate as a spacer when I glued up the side tubing sections besides just the rear tubing section. That would have given me the perfect fit.

So Bill, if I do get the urge to try the Whale Tail kit I have, I'll know better next time what and where the pit falls are.

Joel

[arcticwolf]

Joel, I found that the front and rear of the chassis fit perfectly, just not both at the same time. Also the body wouldn't go over the chassis. So I trimmed the sides of the front firewall and the engine mounting plate back a fair bit, using the rad support and rear firewall as a benchmark, and it worked. Now the body fits quite well.
It seems that all the pieces are just off a little bit, a lot of test fitting and massaging but it works. I'm just not used to these kind of kits, but I do like the car so far.
And I agree, building the second one would be easier. But isn't it always?

[Joel_W]

Paul,
So I'm not the only one who found that strange fit issue for the full chassis. Eventually I got it aligned and glued down. Width wise, the back was much easier to align with the tube spacer between the two sides. Like I said, the front really ended up a few mill to narrow. With the engine mount as a guide it also would have aligned perfectly. The issue for me was that the engine assembly doesn't even start till much later, and I just never made the mental connection to use it as a spacer. A little sanding and the engine assembly did literally pop right in.

Like you, I found that the firewall/dash assembly is also a tad to wide, mostly from the same issue as above. I've filed and sanded as needed, and now they also slide right in. Just really awkward to position it as the transmission cover is supposed to be glued in 1st. I'm testing to see if I can do it in reverse.

I've got two more kits in the stash, and neither is on my agenda for 2020 at this point. What I'm really getting excited about is a back to back or double build of the AMT Gurney Olsonite and Resoline cars. I'm in the process of getting the 2nd kit, and will reach out to Calvin about the conversion kit.

Joel

[cc]

Hi Joel,  just had sometime and check in. Your coming along very nicely. Your over coming of issues is good to hear and I’m keep track as I have this kit to do. Your details keep a good focus on the area’s you have done. Looking great. Keep it up and you’ll most likely be done the next chance I have to look in. 

CC 😎

[Joel_W]

CC,
Thanks so much for stopping by and checking out the Roush Mustang build. It's slowly making progress, but continues to fight me every step of the way. As I posted, lately it's been 2 steps forward and 3 backwards. Today's work session was exactly that scenario once again.

Joel

[randyditton]

Hi Joel,

Love your progress on this one! I like your added bits and the paint & decals look great.

Randy

[Joel_W]

Randy,
Thanks so much for stopping by and checking out my work to date. It's greatly appreciated.

Unfortunately, my progress is at a near stand still with the holidays and still the on going issues with Medicaid for my 96 year old mother in law. But I hope to get some work done today as my NY Giants aren't worth watching.

Joel

[Joel_W]

  Well, work on the Roush Mustang has been preceeding at a slower pace then usual, but honestly my days of modeling 5+ days/week since I've retired has come to an end for the time being. It just started to feel more like a job then a hobby, which I looked forward to, when I'm at my bench. I do have a few other interests, so I just decided to slow it down to about 3 days per week, and that seems to be about right for now. My Mojo levels have increased even though I've been fighting the good fight with this Revell kit. So far I'd say that I'm winning the war (just barely), but it sure hasn't been an easy fight for an old man my age.

  Since my last update I finished up the engine compartment with the addition of the exhaust cross over pipe. As I said in my last update I had come to the conclusion that unless I left the motor out, there's no more room for any additional lines. Just the air cleaner needs to be glued in place, but 1st I have to paint it. So my focus now turned to the drivers compartment.

  And here is where Revell has made another regroup, and counter attacked with all that this kit has. The front engine bulkhead just didn't fit as it's to wide. That's a combination of my NOT gluing the side frames exactly as they should be, but the fit was pretty sloppy so one has to guess. I just guessed slight wrong. So out came the files and various sandpapers. Finally it fits. Then I realized that the transmission cover needs to be installed 1st. So I dry fitted it, and then the battle really started in earnest. I just couldn't get the bulkhead to slide into position. Now this went on for two days, finally I figured that if I just dry fitted the cover, then tapped it so that the front was pulled up, the bulkhead would fit with a little persuasion. A few more dry fittings convinced me that it would work, so I glued the front builkhead in place with 5 min epoxy, but I didn't glue the transmission cover as I needed to be able to lift it again to get the dash in.


 
Next up was the dash, but not the instrument panel which is separate. Of course it didn't come close to fitting. So major surgery was needed to the sub structure that would go under the transmission cover, as well as narrowing it's width. Another day at the bench and it to was in place.

 
In between I hand painted all the instruments on the dash panel as there is no decal alternative in the kit, and I don't have any extras lying around close to the sizes I needed. The faces are supposed to be black with white numbers, but I opted to reverse them to add a little much needed color contrast. The bezels were painted with good old Testors Silver. The instrument panel slides right into place which was a very pleasant surprise. I left the steering wheel off for now.

  The seat was painted a combination of Matt Black and Nato Black. Then epoxied into place. Now came the dreaded 6 way seatbelt/Harness time. One really needs a steady hand and good eyesight to build the HGW set. Unfortunately, neither of which I have. Somehow, I managed to get them built over the next few days. I adjusted the lengths of each belts as needed. I'm pretty happy with how they look. Not perfect, but gets the job done, especially as once the window netting is on, you really can't see much of the seat.



  And finally the steering wheel was glued into place. I did paint the wheel Nato Black to represent the foam type cover on the wheel.

  Still plenty to do including the fuel filters and lines, as well as replacing the two temp line straps in the trunk area. Of course I have to figure out a better alternative to the massively oversized window netting. And I'm looking forward to the wheels/tires so that the chassis can finally stand on it's own.













Joel

[Deleted]

Joel,

This thing might be beating you up, but you are definitely winning the fight. I really like your accenting with various types of paint, when its all said and done its really paying off. Hang in there my friend you'll get it.

[Joel_W]

Bill,
Yeah, slowly but surely I'm moving the front lines towards a victory. I'm sure that the kit still have a few surprises in store for me.

I'm still amazed at how you've dealt with this kits and had hardly any issues. For the next build later next year, I'll now spend more time aligning the main chassis rails using the front bulkhead and the rear bracing.

Joel

[Deleted]

I probably told you this but I used a Revell chassis on the Aurora per the instructions.Plus I had to whack off a section. I also removed the front end and added one from the Tamiya Tom's Toyota GTP so that steering was available for posing purposes.Okay there are quite a few mods I stick to. I always make my own firewall, I never us the supplied transmission cover you know what I mean the piece that has the electonics boxes molded in. Any of the 1:1 cars I personally referenced were not set up like that. All left the tight section on the passenger side uncovered. They all ran alot of cables,lines and things down through there. I always make my own "tunnels" just because of aforementioned section. I also do alot of mods on the cage, especially anything on the rear of the firewall. Thats generally where all the 1:1 changes take place. I have been privy to having permission to photograph the interiors of, in order: Roush Merkur XR4Ti, Rocketsports Olivetti Olds, Brix Aurora, RaceWerx Mustang, Rocketsports Mustang. The Aurora I attempted to make used a Revell chassis. The Olds Cutlass I was doing for Joe Vondracek used a Revell. They were just so plentiful and were able to adapt to what "specs" were called for on a project,they were definitely the keystone to sooooo many IMSA & SCCA projects.

[Joel_W]

Bill,
I completely forgot about all those "little" changes, alternations, and scratch built parts that you do to your Revell kits. No wonder everything fits. I've got a full series of pictures of the rebuild of the Roush Motorcraft Mustang, as well as tons of pictures of the All Sports, and even the JPS Mustang, all seem to have the trans cover open on the drivers side. I left it as is as this is my 1st build of the Revell kit, and I was already running into issue after issue. I can certainly see why you opted to build your own firewall. Next kit I'll either go that way or just do the same mod I did this time around and not worry about accuracy, as I'm finding that Revell took so many liberties that the interior is more fantasy than reality.

Sure hope that you're close to solving your 3rd party hosting issues so that you can start to post your build blogs. I don't think you really realize just how good they are. You certainly build at a whole different level then I do.

Joel